The Hair Color Wheel - Everything You Need to Know
Each color has a relationship with every other color. The Hair Color Wheel is a way of showing this relationship.
Q: How can the Hair Color Wheel Help me as a Colorist?
The following color neutralization issues are very common in a hair salon:
- You lifted a customer’s hair with bleach but there is still yellow left in the hair.
- You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to blonde but there is still orange left in the hair.
- You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to brown but there is still red left in the hair.
A: What You Need to Do:
Use the Hair Color Wheel for Color Neutralization
- Add in green to get rid of unwanted redness on hair that has been lifted to brown or light brown.
- Add in blue to get rid of unwanted orange on hair that has been lifted to dark blonde.
- Add in violet to get rid of unwanted yellow on hair that has been lifted to blonde.
Q: Instead of adding in pure colors can I add in Ash Additives?
A: Yes, you can add the following:
- Ash Grey Additive has been developed to add in green for bases up to level 6. You can add in an inch of this into your color mix. This helps counteract brassiness (yellow/orange) in brown hair.
- Ash Blue Additive has been developed to add in blue for bases 6 and up. You can add in an inch of this into your color mix. This helps counteract brassiness (yellow) in blonde hair.
Q: Can I add in Ashy Toners to Kill Brass When I am Working on Blonde Hair?
A: Yes, you can:
- Use Intense Pearl Blonde 100.21 or Intense Silver Blonde 100.20 for first time applications or when a little more lift is still desired.
- Use Pearl Blonde Toner or Silver Blonde Toner when the lift is correct but you need to "ashify".
- But remember, if you are trying to get to a blonde hair result, you will need to lift as well as neutralize (More on that in the Q and A below)
Q: I'm doing all that but I am still not getting the Ashy Blonde Result that I am looking for. What am I doing wrong?
A: Almost certainly you need to lift the hair more.
- If you are looking for a white blonde or an ashy blonde, color neutralization from a dark level will not work.
- Almost certainly you need to lift the hair more. You should not rely on color neutralization only!
- Use a quality lightener and lift the hair up, ideally all the way to level 10. That way you will get rid of all yellow and orange.
- Then apply a toner as above.
Hair that has been correctly lifted to level 9/10
Q: My hair pulls orange. What should I do?
A: Sorry, there is no such thing as hair that "pulls orange."
- There is, however, such a thing as a stylist that does not lift enough!
- Don't misuse the color wheel and think you can just dump in ash and more ash and kill brassiness. It doesn't work like that.
- Hair has its natural melanin which is causing that orange and that brassiness. You need to remove that first.
- Lift up the hair to a true level 9/10. Use a quality lightener that works well on dark hair.
- Then apply your ash toners as above. You will get a much better result.