Array ( [0] => Array ( [id_cms] => 43 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 0 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How to Bleach Hair - 10 Things You Need to Get Right [meta_description] => Step By Step Instructions to Lightening Your Hair With Bleach | Ugly Duckling Professional Hair Tutorial [meta_keywords] => bleach,hair lightener [content] =>

1. What do I Need in order to Bleach Hair Correctly?

• A Quality Bleach powder like Brilliant Blonde.
• Developer.
• Brush For Applying Hair, Clips for Sectioning, Mixing Bowl

2. Which Developer Should I Use When Bleaching?

Developer choice is directly related to how much lift you are looking for.

• Use 10 Vol for gentle color cleansing
• Use 20 Vol for color removal and lifts of 1-2 levels.
• Use 30 Vol for significant lifting (more than 3 levels of lift).
• Use 40 Vol only if you are working on very strong thick Asian hair. Or unless you are using Olaplex, which bumps down the strength of any developer you use.

3. What is the Correct Mix Ratio of Bleach to Developer?

• With Ugly Duckling Brilliant Blonde, we recommend a mix of 1 part Bleach to 2 parts developer.
• Mix the bleach until it forms a smooth consistency (similar to gravy). Do this in a plastic mixing bowl. Add the developer to the powder bleach a little at a time, stirring as you do.
• It is important that the mix is runny enough so that application is quick and easy.
• Our recommended "fairly runny" mix will make it easier to cover all the hair evenly, thus avoiding patchy results.
• It will also allow you to work fast, and give every part of your client's hair the same processing time.
• This also means you have longer to work before the mixture turns dry. Remember that the bleach mixture will stop working as soon as it becomes dry.
• The only time you will need a thicker mixture which won't drip is when you are doing a bayalage (free painting of highlights). When doing a balayage, make the mixture a little drier. 1 part lightener to 1 part developer is good.

Bleach Mixture, Not too Runny, Not Too Thick.

4. How Should I Apply the Bleach Mixture?

• Section the hair into 4 large sections with sectioning clips.
• Then unclip one section and create mini half-inch sections using your tail comb.
• Start applying bleach in the back of the head where the hair is usually darkest and thickest, working your way round to the front sections, in half-inch sections.
• Make sure that you saturate the hair properly with the product mixture. You need to literally smother the hair with bleach.
• Apply bleach quickly as you don’t want the mixture to dry out before it is applied. 
• Always keep at least half an inch away from the scalp. If you are looking to lift all the way from the root, return to the last half inch (nearest to the root) after having applied everywhere else. The part nearest the scalp will process the fastest because it is getting heat from the scalp.
• Try and avoid actually touching the scalp unless your bleach mix is a fairly mild one.

Section the hair, then start applying the bleach from the back.

5. How Long should I let the Bleach Mixture Sit on the Hair?

• You must keep watching and monitoring the hair during the bleaching process to see how it is lifting.
• The development time can vary from 15 minutes to 30 minutes, depending on the starting hair color level, texture, and thickness. 
• If the hair has been bleached or colored a lot in the past, you should check test strands every 10 minutes to see if the hair is still elastic and strong.
• If necessary, you should add in more mixture if you can see that there are parts which are lifting more slowly. 
• Wash off when the hair reaches the desired level.
• Make sure you do not rinse too early - this is the number one mistake that stylists make! If you are trying to do a true ash blonde, you should try and take the hair to a level 9 or level 10 (see below)
• After 30 minutes, rinse off whatever the level. It will be dry anyway, and will have stopped working.
• If you are not satisfied with the degree of lift, and provided the hair is still in good condition (ie it's still elastic and strong) you can do a second application.
• Asian hair, Hispanic hair, other dark hair looking to go blonde will very often require a second application.
• Do try to get rid of all the orange pigments and also most of the yellow pigments before you rinse. 
• See the image below. Aim for a level 9 or 10 if you are trying to get blonde hair.
• When you get to your target level, rinse using an acidic shampoo. This will close the hair cuticle after the bleaching process.

Bleaching Levels

Hair Color At Level 10 After Bleaching

 

6. Which Lightener Should I Use?

• All the examples on this page have been done using Ugly Duckling Brilliant Blonde. We recommend it as it has been designed for dark bases and can lift up to 8 levels safely and effectively.
• It is blue and dust-free.It produces a creamy, easy to apply mix and gives a very uniform consistent lift.

7. How do I Prevent "Hot Roots" when I bleach? 

• Apply bleach first on the lengths and then return to the regrowth area in the last 10 minutes only. And rinse before the roots get "hot".
• Remember that even when doing the root area you don't need to apply the bleach mixture directly right onto the scalp.
• If you stop a quarter of an inch away, the mixture will travel up and process with the heat from the scalp.

8. What do I do if my Client's Ends are one Color and Her Mid-Lengths are Another Color ? 

• If you have inconsistent color on your lengths, for example a chunk which has been colored darker and another chunk which has been lightened in the past, plus the natural regrowth hair at the root area, you will need to have a clear bleaching strategy.
• You will need to figure out which areas need the most lightening and apply bleach first on those areas.
• Remember: the aim is to get the entire head of hair up to a consistent pale yellow level.
• You may need to divide up your client's hair mentally into 3 different sections and apply bleach at different times to each section.
• You may also need to keep watching as your customer's hair develops and then add more bleach onto sections which are not lifting fast enough.
• In this way you can bring all your hair to one consistent color level, which is absolutely what you need to do to achieve an attractive color result.

9. How Should I Color or Tone the Hair After Bleaching?

• Coloring or toning after bleaching is necessary in order to achieve a vivid, 3 dimensionalcolor. 
• Ugly Duckling toners are very effective and we would recommend these if you are trying to achieve ultra white blonde results such as silver blonde or pearl blonde.
• Use Intense Pearl Blonde 100.21 or Intense Silver Blonde 100.20 if your are looking for ultra white results and you still need to lift a little more.
• Use Pearl Blonde Toner 10.20 or Silver Blonde Toner 10.21 if you are have already achieved a true level 10 and for refresh toning applications.

10. How Should I Treat The Hair After Bleaching and Toning?

• Rinse with water, then wash with a good quality acidic shampoo.
• If you are looking for an ultra white blonde or ash blonde result, use Ugly Duckling Purple Shampoo and Mask for additional toning.
• Purple Shampoo and Mask can also be used as a maintenance treatment to keep your color white and ashy.

[link_rewrite] => how-to-bleach-hair [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] =>

"The best bleach I have used so far. It only takes 15 minutes at the most and gets the blonde to that perfect pale yellow color." - Facebook Tutorial.

) [1] => Array ( [id_cms] => 69 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 1 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How To Bleach Dark Hair To Ultra White Blonde Step-By-Step (with Pictures and Video) [meta_description] => Learn How to Use Bleach & Lift Safely To Ultra White Blonde | Ugly Duckling Professional Hair Tutorial [meta_keywords] => Bleaching Hair,Lifting,Ash Blonde,Pearl Blonde,How to,Bleaching Tutorial [content] =>

Looking To Take Dark Hair Ultra White Blonde?

As a stylist, do you get requests from clients to bleach and lift dark hair to ultra white blonde?

It is possible to do this and maintain hair integrity at the same time provided you do it right.

Our model had very frizzy, long dark hair, and we succeeded in transforming her into an ultra white blonde look which she was very happy with and which she wore to her summer proms.

Hairdresser: Ashley Betancourt.

How To Bleach Dark Hair and Take it To Ultra White Blonde Step-By-Step (with Pictures and Video)

We bleached and toned our model's dark hair to this!

This was done in 1 sitting.

In this tutorial we will show you how to achieve this in your own salon.

1. What You Will Need

• A coloring bowl, clip and brushes
• Brilliant Blonde Lightener and 30 Vol Developer for lifting
• Intense Pearl Blonde Toner and 20 Vol Developer for toning
• Purple Shampoo to Finish and to Maintain

2. Mix the Lightener and the Developer in a Mixing Bowl

• Our recommended mix is 1 part Lightener to 2 parts Developer.
• This gives a mix which is fairly runny, which is what you need to saturate the hair properly and work fast.
• At the same time, it is not too runny that it will drip off he brush.
• As this model has fairly dark hair and we are looking to go ultra white blonde, we decided to start off on the lengths using 30 Vol Developer.
• The rule of thumb when using bleach is 20 Vol developer for 1-2 levels lift and for the root area, and 30 Vol for 3 levels lift and more.
• Section the hair and apply the mix thoroughly using a brush, starting from the back where the hair is the thickest.
• At this stage, apply only on the lengths and leave out the last inch closest to the root.
• Aim to deposit as much of the mix as possible. In this case, because of the hair frizziness, after applying with a brush, we re-applied with fingers using gloves.

3. Section the Hair and Apply The Bleach Mix

• This is long hair, and bleach needs to be applied as fast as possible so that all the hair lifts equally.
• So first section the hair into 4 large quadrants, and pin back 3 quadrants.
• Start off with one of the quadrants at the back.
• Section this one into very fine sections and start applying the bleach.
• At this stage, apply only on the lengths, leaving the root part (which processes faster) for later
• Work your way round the hair as quickly as you can.

4. Check The Hair And Re-Apply Fresh Bleach Mix If Necessary

• Once you have applied everywhere on the lengths, check how it is processing, especially at the back where you started.
• If the mixture has dried up and you have still not lifted to level 9/10. you will need to re-apply fresh mix.
• Check also for hair integrity. As long as the hair is still strong and has its natural elasticity, you're good.
• In the case of dark hair, virgin or healthy hair, after 30 minutes of processing you can rinse and re-apply one more time if you have not achieved level 9/10.

5. Get The Lengths Up to A Consistent Level 9/10

• Your aim should be to get the lengths up to this color:

• Notice that at this stage we still have not touched the root area:

6. Now Apply On The Root Area, Using 20 Vol Developer.

• In general, you need to be careful when applying bleach on the root area. A skin sensitivity test is always recommended before any bleach application.
• Heat from the scalp means that hair near the root always processes faster than anywhere else.
• That is why for the root area, we made a fresh mix using 20 Vol Developer.
• Because the lengths are all done, we were able to concentrate on the root area, and rinse as soon as we got the desired result.

7. Rinse And Apply Intense Pearl Blonde Toner

• After rinsing with water, apply Ugly Duckling Intense Pearl Blonde Toner with 20 Vol.
• The recommended mix is 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
• Once again, work fast, starting off with the lengths.
• Return to the root area afterwards.
• You will see the pigments of the toner will start to change. This is normal.
• Let the color process. Do not let the toner process more than around 10 minutes on the root area and more than 20 minutes overall.

8. Rinse with Purple Shampoo and/or Mask.

• Now rinse with Brilliant Blonde Purple shampoo and/or Mask. 
• These products contain intense violet pigments which will help finish your hair color result and kill any residual yellowness.
• Because they are low pH, they also help to close the hair cuticle after the lightening and coloring.

9. Final Result.

10. Video

How To Bleach and Tone Long Dark Hair

[link_rewrite] => how-to-bleach-dark-hair-to-ultra-white-blonde-step-by-step-with-pictures-and-video [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => ) [2] => Array ( [id_cms] => 60 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 2 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => What Happens If You Put Too Much Developer Into Your Dye? [meta_description] => Hair Color Mix Ratios | Adding the Correct Amount of Developer | Ugly Duckling Professional Hair Tutorial [meta_keywords] => Developer,Hair Color,Mix ratio [content] =>

What is the Right Mix Ratio for Ugly Duckling Color?

• The recommended mix ratio for Ugly Duckling Color is 1 part color to 1 part developer for most of our colors.
• The recommended mix ratio for Ugly Duckling Toners (Intense Pearl Blonde, Intense Silver Blonde, Pearl Blonde Toner, Silver Blonde Toner) is 1 part color to 2 parts developer.
• The recommended mix For Ugly Ducking High Lift Colors (anything beginning with the number 100) is also 1 part color to 2 parts developer.
• The recommended mix for Ugly Duckling Bleach (Brilliant Blonde), is 1 part Brilliant Blonde to 2 parts color.

Ugly Duckling recommends that if you are new to coloring, try to get the mix as correct as possible. You can use weighing scales if necessary.
Later, as you get more experience, you can try out different mixes. Expert colorists do indeed vary the mix according to their personal preferences and according to the situation.

What Happens If I Put Too Much Developer In The Dye?

• Your mix will be more wet, more runny. 
• If it is way too runny, you may end up lightening the hair, but not depositing enough color. It will end up thinner, flatter and last less long.

Are There Any Cases Where it is a Good Idea to Deliberately Put in Extra Developer?

• Putting in more developer will give you a runnier solution.
• This is helpful when you want to saturate the hair (cover the hair with product) really really well and evenly. You will get a more even color result and you will tend to avoid patches.This is particularly important in full head applications.
• A runnier solution will allow you to work fast. This may be an important factor when your client's hair is long and you want to give all the hair the same processing time roots to ends.
• Very often, expert colorists tend to go with a runnier solution for the above reasons. Many of the artists who produce video tutorials for Ugly Duckling do actually use fairly runny mixes (See below)
• Even when going with a runnier solution, aim at a maximum mix of 1:1.5 for Ugly Duckling Color and 1:2.5 mix for Ugly Duckling Lightener (Brilliant Blonde). Any more and you may be compromising color results.

A Runny Mix Allows you to Work Fast and Cover a Lot of Hair

Coloring by Ashley Betancourt

What Happens If I Put Too Little Developer in The Dye?

• Your mix will be too dry, and you won't be able to saturate the hair properly with product and you may also get uneven and patchy color results.
• You will not be lifting out enough of the hair's natural melanin.
• This will mean you may end up with darker hair than you wished for.

Are There Any Cases Where it is A Good Idea to Deliberately Put in Too Little Developer?

• It will help if you want to do a balayage technique (free painting with dye brush) and you want to position the color accurately and not have any product dripping off the brush.
• Balayage artists tend to work with thicker color mixes. This helps avoid putting on too much product in one go and thus avoid visible lines of demarcation.
• It will also help if you are looking to do grey hair coverage and your client has difficult to cover grey hair. You will get a darker color result, but you will be able to improve grey hair coverage.
• Even when going for a less runny solution, aim at a minimum mix of 1:0.8 for Ugly Duckling Color and 1:1.5 mix for Ugly Duckling Lightener (Brilliant Blonde).

[link_rewrite] => what-happens-if-you-put-too-much-developer-in-your-dye [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] =>

"I was looking for a brilliant silver that didnt have crappy blue undertones. I decided to try Ugly Duckling after watching several videos of it being used with Olaplex. I absolutely loved my results. No crappy blue I had to wait weeks to wash out so I was left with my silver, it was just a gorgeous silver right away and 4 months later it still has the pretty silver going. My hair looked and felt shiny and soft. I love the products and stock up so I don't chance running out when I need to touch up!" - Facebook Review.

) [3] => Array ( [id_cms] => 46 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 3 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How To Kill Brassy Hair | Color Training & Recipe [meta_description] => Getting Rid of That Yellow and Orange|Ugly Duckling Professional Hair Tutorial [meta_keywords] => yellow hair,brassy hair,getting rid of yellow tones,getting rid of orange tones [content] =>

1. What is Brassy Hair and How Can I Get Rid of It?

• Brassy hair is hair that looks yellowish or orange.
• Basically, hair is "brassy" because it has not been lifted enough - the darker the blonde, the more "brassy" it will look.
• In the image below, you can see that the hair at level 7/8 is more brassy and more orange than the hair at level 9/10.

Image Supplied by Ugly Duckling Stylist Hon G.

2. What exactly is causing my client's hair to turn brassy when I bleach or color or lift?

A little bit of color theory:

• Hair has a natural undercoat, or secondary pigment, which becomes visible when you lighten it or even if you stay in the sun for very long. 
• When you lighten hair to a dark brown color, you get a red undercoat or tone.
• When you lighten hair to a medium brown color, you get an orange undercoat or tone.
• When you light hair to a blonde hair color, you get a yellow undercoat or tone.
• This table below illustrates the undercoats which occur at every hair level.
• These undercoats often represent a challenge for colorists and their customers as generally speaking these undercoats are not very attractive nor desired by clients. 

3. What Should I Do to Get Rid of Brassy Hair?

STEP 1. Use A Quality Lightener & Lift the Hair to Level 10.

• If you have a client with yellowish, orange hair and you are looking  to eliminate all her brassiness, you need to take her all the way up to a level 10 (see picture below).
• If you lift it to a level 10, you will be able to eliminate almost all the secondary pigments that cause brassiness. 
• If you don't lift out all that yellow, the hair will stay brassy even if you put in a lot of ash or ash based toners!

Hair Color Levels

Hair Which Has Been Prelightened to Level 10

STEP 2. Tone with a quality toner or Color

• If you are looking for an intense ultra white blonde look, and this is a first toning application with Ugly Duckling toners, use Intense Pearl Blonde 100.21 or Intense Silver Blonde 100.20 
• If you have previously lifted your hair and are looking for a lighter, refresh toning application only, tone with No-Lift Pearl Blonde Toner, No-Lift Silver Blonde Toner.
• The recommended mix is 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
• Aim for a good product saturation and leave on for 10-15 minutes.

Hair Toned with Intense Pearl Blonde 100.21. Hair Color by @hair_by_becki

Hair Toned with Intense Silver Blonde 100.20. Hair Color by Jessica Mallicoat

Hair Toned with Pearl Blonde Toner. Hair Color by Elona Taki

Hair Colored with 10.1B (Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde). Hair Color by Brittney Perez.

STEP 3. After toning, finish with Purple Shampoo and Mask.

• Our purple shampoo and mask are low pH sulfate-free products and will help close the cuticle after coloring as well as tone and condition.
• They contain intense purple pigments which will neutralize any remaining yellowness or brassiness in the hair.
• For best results, use plenty of product and massage in very thoroughly. The more these products are in contact with your hair, the more they will transfer those pigments.
• With the purple mask, leave on for 10 minutes under a plastic cap and, if possible, some gentle heat.

[link_rewrite] => how-to-kill-brassy-hair [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] =>

"I have been a hairstylist for 8 years and I have never seen a product like that works as well as Ugly Duckling. UD is a miracle color line. The bleach, toner and shampoo is amazing. The bleach brought my level 3-4 pre-colored hair to a level 9 with two processes and little damage. The pearl blonde toner killed the yellow tones, leaving it a nice, neutral blonde that I love. My friend and I were completely amazed. If I were to ever open my own salon, I would definitely consider using the entire UD line in my salon. There is simply nothing better." - Facebook Review

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Before

After

Step 1: Apply Brilliant Blonde and Developer to the Regrowth Areas.

• If you have dark regrowth, the first thing you need to do is deal with that. 
• Apply Brilliant Blonde lightener with 20 Vol developer. Brilliant Blonde has been formulated for dark bases provides quick and efficient lifting.
• Make the mix fairly runny (1 part lightener to 2 parts developer) in order to be able to work quickly and get good product saturation onto the hair.
• Wait until you got the hair to level 10 or equality compared to the rest of the hair. Then rinse.

Applying Lightener to Lift the Regrowth Area 

Hair Color Lifted to Level 10 (below)

Step 2: Tone with The Right Choice of Toner.

• After rinsing, tone with Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100.21.
• You can also use any of the Ugly Duckling Toners depending on your preference: Intense Silver Blonde 100.20, Pearl Blonde 10V, and Silver Blonde 10B.
• Mix toner with a 10 or 20 Vol. developer.
• Keep the mix at 1 part toner to 2 parts developer. This will give you a runny mix, and help you saturate well and evenly. 
• Work fast because the toner works fast and you must try and give all your hair the same amount of development time.
• As you apply, you will see the product start to change color and turn greyish blue. These pigments are there to fight the yellow and get you to a true ash color.
• Watch carefully and rinse when the hair has turned the color you want. Normally, around 10 -15 minutes of toning is enough.
• Rinse when the correct level is achieved.

Applying Toner Mix to Lengths and Root Area

Step 3: Apply Purple Shampoo 

• After rinsing, apply Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo.
• You need to use a lot of product and rub in really well to allow an efficient transfer of purple pigments into the hair. 
• You can let the purple shampoo sit for around 5 minutes, then rinse.
• Brilliant Blonde purple shampoo is low pH and will close the cuticle and maintain the hair's health after lightening and coloring.

Ugly Duckling Purple Shampoo - Rub in well for best results

Result

Hair Color by Brittney Perez.

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1. Apply hair dye on dry, unwashed hair

All hair dye has been designed to work best on dry, unwashed hair. The oil from your hair will protect the scalp while it is being colored.

All you need to do to prepare the hair for coloring is comb it finely so that you are ready to start sectioning. 

2. Assess how many levels you are lifting

You must do a very accurate assessment of every part of your client's hair and determine how many levels you are trying to lift.

You must do this for every part of the hair, for example for the regrowth area as as well as for the ends. 

Based on this analysis, you will be able to calculate the developer strength you need and also which part of the hair you need to deal with first.

NB If you are looking to lift any part of your client's hair by more than 3 levels, you will need to use a high lift product or a lightener.

3. Choose the correct strength of developer.

For level on level coloring, use 10 Vol developer.

For 1-2 levels lift, use 20 Vol developer.

For 2-3 levels lift, use 30 Vol developer.

For 3 levels and more, use 40 Vol developer.

If you are toning pre-lightened hair, use 10 Vol if the hair is already very very blonde (level 10). Otherwise, use 20 Vol.

 

4. Measure the hair dye and developer carefully. 

The right mix between hair dye and developer will have a huge impact on the hair color result.

If you put in too little developer, you won’t be opening the hair cuticle enough. If you put in too much developer, you will be lightening the hair but not depositing enough hair dye and the color won’t last.

So always measure your hair dye and developer properly. We recommend using either kitchen scales or a measuring bowl with markers.

For most Ugly Duckling hair color, the correct mix is 1 part hair dye to 1 part developer.

For high lift colors, the correct mix is 1 part hair dye to 2 parts developer.

For toners, the correct mix is 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.

5. Section the hair correctly before applying hair dye

Part the hair into 4 big sections. Tie up 3 sections with a clip. 

On the remaining unclipped section, start taking ¼ inch mini-sections in order to apply the color with your dye brush. Lift each strand up and apply color from just away from the scalp to the ends. Neat, even sectioning is really really important.

Taking fine sections will help you achieve even color results.

Once you have completed 1 big section in this way, pin up again. Then start on another section and do mini sections on this one in the same way.

Repeat on all sections until you have finished coloring the hair.

6. Use Enough Product.

In order to get the most vibrant color possible, you must use enough product mix and you must saturate the hair properly. The image below shows a section of hair after the product has been applied:

7. Use your fingers to do the coloring a second time 

Run through the hair a second time after applying the color, with fingers (wearing gloves). Make a second mix if necessary. By using your fingers you can spread out the color (avoid patches) and deposit more color into the cortex just as the cuticle is opening up. 

This is what makes the color really intense and vibrant when you are dyeing hair. If your customer has white hair, you should also cross-check how well you have covered the white hair by re-sectioning the hair and checking that all white hair has been properly covered.

Some areas such as the nape area are particularly resistant and you need to pay particular attention here. Avoid using combs to color or re-color, as you can end up ruining the hair cuticles which have been opened in the coloring process.

8. Respect the processing time

For most colors, the processing time is 30 minutes.

For toners, rinse off when the correct color appears (around 10-15 minutes is normal).

For high lift colors: up to 40 minutes. 

9. Emulsify

Before rinsing, add a little water to the color and rub at the scalp area. Then rub well around the hairline first, then middle and nape.

This process is known as emulsification. It helps lock in the color into the hair, and gives you really vibrant, long-lasting color results plus hair that feels full and very well conditioned.

10. Shampoo using an acidic (low pH) shampoo, conditioner or mask.

Use an acidic shampoo and conditioner to close the hair cuticle and return the hair to its natural pH level. 

[link_rewrite] => how-to-apply-dye-on-hair [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => ) [6] => Array ( [id_cms] => 55 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 6 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How to Get 5 Levels of Lift Without Using Bleach [meta_description] => Highlift Hair Color | Blonde | Ash Blonde | Deep Ash Blonde | Silver Blonde | 100.11 | Ugly Duckling Professional Hair Tutorial [meta_keywords] => highlift,highlight,blonde,ash blonde,no bleach [content] =>

1. High Lift Colors - No Bleach Needed

• If you are looking to get lift and you want to avoid using bleach, it is possible to do so using Ugly Duckling’s High Lift Series (Any Ugly Duckling Color Beginning with "100")
• These colors give up to 5 levels of lift without using bleach.
• They can be used to lighten regrowth areas and also to tone the hair and give it the right blonde reflect.
• But please note if you have a re-growth issue as above, you must first deal with the regrowth area, then tone the whole head.
• We show you how in this tutorial.

2. Which High Lift Color Should I use?

For a regular blonde look, use High Lift Blonde 100.

For an ashy blonde look, use High Lift Ash Blonde 100.10 or High Lift Deep Ash Blonde 100.11.

How Should I Use Them?

• The mix ratios for these colors is part color to 2 parts developer.
• Use 30 Vol or 40 Vol if you wish to lift more than 3 levels. 
• Push the development time is 45 minutes instead of 30 for significant lifting.
• Using indirect heat will help to speed up the processing time and to get more lift.
• If you have a regrowth area you must first deal with the regrowth area. Apply the mix first on the regrowth. Wait 20 minutes or until the hair has lifted all the way up to the lengths.
• Now make a fresh mix, with 20 Vol this time, and apply to the rest of the hair.

(A) Before: Regrowth of Level 6, Mid-Lengths Blonde But Washed Out.

(B) Mix 100.11 with 30 Vol. 

(C) Apply to Root Area First to Lift It. Apply To Hair Ends in the Final 20 Minutes.

(D) The Final result. Consistent Deep Ash Blonde Result.

Learn More

If you would like to learn more about the product used in this tutorial, please go to High Lift Deep Ash Blonde 100.11.

Color Tutorial by Elona Taki.

[link_rewrite] => how-to-get-5-levels-of-lift-without-using-bleach [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => ) [7] => Array ( [id_cms] => 47 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 7 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => The Hair Color Wheel - Everything You Need to Know [meta_description] => How to Use the Color Wheel For Your Coloring [meta_keywords] => hair color wheel,color neutralization,using blue to neutralize,using violet to neutralize,using green to neutralize [content] =>

Each color has a relationship with every other color. The Hair Color Wheel is a way of showing this relationship.

 

 

Q: How can the Hair Color Wheel Help me as a Colorist?

 

The following color neutralization issues are very common in a hair salon:

• You lifted a customer’s hair with bleach but there is still yellow left in the hair.
• You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to blonde but there is still orange left in the hair.
• You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to brown but there is still red left in the hair.

A: What You Need to Do:

Use the Hair Color Wheel for Color Neutralization

• Add in green to get rid of unwanted redness on hair that has been lifted to brown or light brown.
• Add in blue to get rid of unwanted orange on hair that has been lifted to dark blonde.
• Add in violet to get rid of unwanted yellow on hair that has been lifted to blonde.

Q: Instead of adding in pure colors can I add in Ash Additives? 

A: Yes, you can:

• Ash Grey Additive has been developed to add in green for bases up to level 6. You can add in an inch of this into your color mix. This helps counteract brassiness (yellow/orange) in brown hair.
• Ash Blue Additive has been developed to add in blue for bases 6 and up. You can add in an inch of this into your color mix. This helps counteract brassiness (yellow) in blonde hair.

Q: Can I add in Ashy Toners to Kill Brass When I am Working on Blonde Hair?

A: Yes, you can:

• Use Intense Pearl Blonde 100.21 or Intense Silver Blonde 100.20 for first time applications or when a little more lift is still desired.
• Use Pearl Blonde Toner or Silver Blonde Toner when the lift is correct but you need to "ashify".

Q: I'm doing all that but I am still not getting the Ashy Blonde Result that I am looking for. What am I doing wrong?

A: Almost certainly you need to lift the hair more. 

• If you are looking for a white blonde or an ashy blonde, color neutralization from a dark level will not work.
• Almost certainly you need to lift the hair more. You should not rely on color neutralization only!
• Use a quality lightener and lift the hair up, ideally all the way to level 10. That way you will get rid of all yellow and orange.
• Then apply a toner as above.

Q: My hair pulls orange. What should I do?

A: Sorry, there is no such thing as hair that "pulls orange."

• There is, however, such a thing as a stylist that does not lift enough!
• Don't misuse the color wheel and think you can just dump in ash and more ash and kill brassiness. It doesn't work like that.
• Hair has its natural melanin which is causing that orange and that brassiness. You need to remove that first.
• Lift up the hair to a true level 9/10. Use a quality lightener that works well on dark hair.
• Then apply your ash toners as above. You will get a much better result.

Hair that has been correctly lifted to level 9/10

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Argan Oil, sometimes known as Moroccan Oil, is a product of the Moroccan Argan tree. It has been called “Liquid Gold” by the haircare industry, because its benefits are truly amazing.

It is easily absorbed by the hair cuticles, nourishing dry hair and making hair shine with health and radiance.

It contains vitamin E and fatty acids and it helps to smooth even the frizziest of hair and it restores bounce, giving an immediate and dramatic impact on the hair.

Hair coloring using oxidative dyes, if done incorrectly, can impose stress on your hair.

But when Argan Oil is used in the coloring process, it penetrates the hair at the cortex level, giving profound benefits during and after the hair color process.

Benefits of Argan Oil When Coloring

1. Shinier Hair

The oil helps to close the hair cuticles after coloring. This makes the hair shaft shinier. After blow dry and brushing, the effect is even more pronounced.

2. Softer Hair

The Argan Oil also penetrates into the cortex during the coloring process. This makes the hair quality softer after the coloring.

3. Repairs Brittle Hair

Because the Argan Oil enters into the cortex during the coloring process, it "plumps" the hair from inside and makes the hair fibre, making it less brittle in the process. The Argan Oil helps repair the brittle parts, whether they occur on the ends, in the case of long hair, or mid-lengths, as is sometimes the case with permed or relaxed hair.

4. Makes Ends Stronger, Particularly on Long Hair

Women are growing their hair longer and longer these days. The end of the hair is the oldest part of the hair and as a result tends to be particularly thin and worn. A visit to the stylist and a regular trim at the ends s generally what women do about this. But  Argan Oil-based color does act here and does the plumping here, making a visible difference. By using Ugly Duckling color, you can grow your hair longer and still keep the ends in good condition.

5. More Even Color Deposit

Because the hair shaft has been strengthened from the inside, the whole process of coloring works better. The natural pigments can be lightened at a more even rate, and re-pigmentation takes place in a more even way. Result: a more consistent, regular color, more uniform from roots to ends.

6. More Vibrant Color

Because the hair is in better condition, and because the color molecules are more evenly deposited, women who use Ugly Duckling Color on thair hair get a much more vibrant hair color result. Whether it is a rich brown, or an intense violet, or a true cold ash, the result is a true color that s richer, shinier and more vibrant. 

To view the choice of hair color available with Argan oil, please visit our Shop Now Page.

Mixing Argan Oil into Color Applications

If you are looking for extra conditioning, you can mix Argan Oil into the hair color and chemical straightening or perming applications. This will give a spectacular boost in the degree of conditioning that you are giving your customer.

This is particularly recommended for bleach and perm applications.

We suggest adding around 15 ml, or 1 tablespoon of Argan oil into the mix of 1 Ugly Duckling hair color tube (3.5 oz) and 200 ml of developer (7 oz)

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Shadow Root by Elona Taki

What is a Shadow Root Look?

• A Shadow Root is basically one color at the root area blending seamlessly into a different (typically lighter) at the ends.
• These looks are getting very popular these days, and seem to be growing in popularity all the time.
• Women like them because they give a very natural fashionable look - a glamorized version of grown out highlights.
• Hairstylists love them because they get a chance to show off their skills, creativity and color sense.
• These looks also have the advantage of growing out quite naturally as compared to a "hard" blonde look which will need retouching in 3 weeks.
• The most common Shadow Root Looks go from a dark color close to the client's natural hair level to a lighter color.
• But you can also get creative
• We give below some examples of Shadow Roots done by Ugly Duckling Artists along with the recipes.
• All products used were from the Ugly Duckling Color and Lightener Range.

Subtle Blonde Shadow Root

Color by Elona Taki

Recipe

• Our model came in with a very large regrowth area and light ends.
• We applied 5.11 with 20 Vol on the first 4 inches of the root area.
• We blended that into 6N with 20 Vol on the rest of the regrowth.
• Remember to interweave when sectioning in order to achieve a seamless transition.
• We applied 100.21 Intense Pearl Blonde with 20 Vol on to the ends.
• Processing time was around 30 minutes for the dark colors, around 15 minutes on the already pre-lightened ends.
• We rinsed.
• Finally, Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo was applied, rubbed in for 5 minutes to equalize the whole hair and rinsed.

Blonde Shadow Root on a Dark Base

Color by Ashley Betancourt

Recipe

• Our model had naturally very dark hair (level 3).
• We wanted to give her a look which would show a dark color blending into something much much lighter.
• We applied Brilliant Blonde lightener and 40 Vol to lift her roots to pale yellow.
• We applied a mix of 5.11 and 6N with 20 Vol to her roots.
• We applied a mix of 100.20, 100.21 and Clear to the ends.
• Once again, we took care to blend the two color areas to avoid an obvious line of demarcation.
• We processed and rinsed.

Violet and Silver Blended Root

Color by Elona Taki

• This look went viral on the internet.
• It is a stunning look which at the same time is surprisingly quite easy to wear - hence its popularity.

Recipe

• Brilliant Blonde with 30 Vol to lift the hair all the way up to a very pale yellow.
• Violet mixed with 100.20 (2 parts 100.20, 1 part Violet) on the roots - 20 Vol Developer.
• 100.20 with 20 Vol on the ends.
• Taper between the 2 areas.

Blue and Silver Shadow Root

Color by Elona Taki

Recipe

• Lift hair to very pale yellow with Brilliant Blonde
• Apply Blue with 20 Vol on the roots.
• Apply Silver Grey and 100.20 on the ends.
• Taper between the 2 areas.

To Watch This Step by Step Video of a Shadow Root done on a dark base, click here.

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1. What Are Ugly Duckling Toners?

• Ugly Duckling Toners are fast working toners which give very consistent results.
• They neutralize yellowness and get hair to a more ashy look.
• They contain a proprietary combination of pigments and lifting agents.

2. Which Toner Should I Use?

For regrowth and first-time applications, use:

Intense Silver Blonde Toner 100.20 

Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100.21

For repeat applications, and for clients whose hair is already very well lifted and lightened, use:

Silver Blonde Toner

Pearl Blonde Toner

3. How should I use Ugly Duckling  Toners?

First, Prelighten The Hair.

• You need to get the hair lifted to a level 10 if you are looking for a true silver blonde or peal blonde result for your client.
• The most common error that stylists make is to not lift enough, hoping that the toners will do the lifting. It won't. Be Brave and pre-lift the hair correctly! Use Brilliant Blonde for safe and effective lifting.
• The picture below shows what a hair color level 10 looks like:

• When the hair has been sufficiently lifted, rinse off.

Second, Mix Toner with Developer

• We recommend 10 or 20 Vol. developer for toning.
• The correct mix should be fairly liquidy. 1:2 is the best ratio for applying toners.
• The extra runniness allows fast coverage of the hair and excellent product saturation. 

Apply Mix Quickly on Towel Dried Hair

• You can apply on wet hair but you do need to towel dry it first to take out the excess moisture.
• Ugly Duckling toners typically act very fast, so you need to watch the hair color carefully and emulsify and wash off when it has achieved the hair color result that you are looking for.

Watch the Root Area closely and Rinse at the Appropriate Moment

• Ugly Duckling toners typically act very fast so you need to watch the hair near the root carefully. This is typically the part that processes the fastest due to the heat from the scalp. Wash off as soon as it this part reaches the desired color result.
• Avoid putting product directly on the scalp. We recommend you always stay at least 1/4 inch away from the scalp when using our toners. More if you are trying to achieve a shadow root look.

Shampoo and Condition with low pH products

• Shampoo and condition with low pH products. These will help you re-close the cuticle after the color process. We also recommend the use of Purple Shampoo and Mask to add a further boost of neutralization and pigment correction.

[link_rewrite] => how-to-use-ugly-duckling-toners [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] =>

"I had my hair stylist get the pearl blonde 100.21 and try it on my hair. I was so impressed with it that I won't ever use anything else. My hair was the color I wanted and it was so soft." - Facebook Review

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(1) What Do Purple Shampoo and Mask do exactly?

(2) How do They Work?

(3) So What Kind of Hair Can I Use These Products On? 

(4) I've got dark brown hair. Will Purple Shampoo and Mask Work?

(5) How Long Do The Results Last?

(6) How Often Should I Use These Products? 

(7) How Do I use The Purple Shampoo?

(8) How Do I Use the Purple Mask?

(9) Can I use these products in the salon straight after lightening or coloring?

(10) Anything Else I need to Know About These Products?

[link_rewrite] => 10-things-you-need-to-know-about-purple-shampoo-and-mask [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] =>

I ABSOLUTELY LOVE this product line! I ordered the Ugly Duckling Brilliant Blonde highlighting powder, Pearl Blonde Toner 10.20, the Brilliant Blonde Shampoo and also the Brilliant Blonde purple masque! My hair has never looked and felt so soft! I would highly recommend! I read some of the reviews before using it and I have to say I messaged back and forth with the company and they answered ALL of my questions and concerns. I will definitely be ordering more! 

Facebook Review

) ) 1