1. What is Brassy Hair and How Can I Get Rid of It?
- Brassy hair is hair that looks yellowish or orange.
- Basically, hair is "brassy" because it has not been lifted enough - the darker the blonde, the more "brassy" it will look.
- In the image below, you can see that the hair at level 7/8 is more brassy and more orange than the hair at level 9/10.
Image Supplied by Ugly Duckling Stylist Hon G.
2. What exactly is causing my client's hair to turn brassy when I bleach or color or lift?
A little bit of color theory:
- Hair has a natural undercoat, or secondary pigment, which becomes visible when you lighten it or even if you stay in the sun for very long.
- When you lighten hair to a dark brown color, you get a red undercoat or tone.
- When you lighten hair to a medium brown color, you get an orange undercoat or tone.
- When you light hair to a blonde hair color, you get a yellow undercoat or tone.
- This table below illustrates the undercoats which occur at every hair level.
- These undercoats often represent a challenge for colorists and their customers as generally speaking these undercoats are not very attractive nor desired by clients.
3. What Should I Do to Get Rid of Brassy Hair?
You can get rid of any brassiness provided you follow the right techniques. Basically, there are 3 steps:
Lift the hair correctly and consistently. We recommend Brilliant Blonde Lightener, it has been formulated for dark bases and lifts up to 8 levels. It works at one go and will save you from bleaching your hair again and again.
Tone with the appropriate choice of toner. We have a choice of 4 toners that produce pearl and silver blonde results. Also blue ash and silver grey colors which are also very popular. Please consult our shop-now page.
Finish with Purple Shampoo and Mask.
STEP 1. Use A Quality Lightener & Lift the Hair to Level 10.
- If you have a client with yellowish, orange hair and you are looking to eliminate all her brassiness, you need to take her all the way up to a level 10 (see picture below).
- If you lift it to a level 10, you will be able to eliminate almost all the secondary pigments that cause brassiness.
- If you don't lift out all that yellow, the hair will stay brassy even if you put in a lot of ash or ash based toners!
Hair Color Levels
Brilliant Blonde 8 Level Lightener: Developed for Dark Bases
Hair which has been prelightened to level 10 using Brilliant Blonde
You can see that in the picture above we have lifted up our model Mag Sam's hair to a true level 10. Now we are ready to start toning. (Look at the bottom of this blog for her final result!)
STEP 2. Tone with a quality toner
- Toners provide the color neutralization which allow you to get rid of any remaining yellowness and brassiness.
- If you are looking for a quality ash blonde, platinum blonde, pearl blonde or silver blonde result, you need to use a very good toner.
- If you are looking for an intense ultra white blonde look, and this is a first toning application with Ugly Duckling toners, use Intense Pearl Blonde 100V or Intense Silver Blonde 100B
- If you have previously lifted your hair and are looking for a lighter, refresh toning application only, tone with No-Lift Pearl Blonde Toner 10V, No-Lift Silver Blonde Toner 10B.
- You can also tone with Silver Grey or Smoky Blue Grey
- If you are looking for a blue based ultra "cold" ash blonde result, we would recommend Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde 10.1B or Very Light Cold Ash Blonde 9.1B
- These colors are all shown below.
- The recommended mix is 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
- Aim for a good product saturation and leave on for 10-20 minutes.
Hair Toned with Pearl Blonde 100V. Hair Color by @hair_by_becki
Hair Toned with Pearl Blonde Toner 10V. Hair Color by Elona Taki
STEP 3. After toning, finish with Purple Shampoo and Mask.
- Our purple shampoo and mask are low pH sulfate-free products and will help close the cuticle after coloring as well as tone and condition.
- They contain intense purple pigments which will neutralize any remaining yellowness or brassiness in the hair.
- For best results, use plenty of product and massage in very thoroughly. The more these products are in contact with your hair, the more they will transfer those pigments.
- With the purple mask, leave on for 10 minutes under a plastic cap and, if possible, some gentle heat.
WATCH VIDEO OF HOW TO USE PURPLE SHAMPOO AND MASK HERE:
Is Your Hair Like This?
Before: Level 6 Regrowth and Yellow Blonde Lengths.
It Can Become Like This!
Brilliant Blonde Lightener with 20 Vol developer on the root area
Intense Pearl Blonde Toner with 20 Vol throughout to tone
Purple Shampoo and Mask to finish.
WATCH VIDEO TUTORIAL "HOW TO GET RID OF BRASSY HAIR":
- Brilliant Blonde Lightener on Regrowth
- 10.1b Extra Light Cool Blonde to Tone
- 20 Vol Developer for both processes
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT BRASSY HAIR
Q. How do you tone down level 7 orange hair?
- If the hair is level 7, as in the picture at the top of this page, you are not going to get a good result just applying toner.
- The best thing to do is to lift it some more, up to level 9/10, then tone with an Ugly Duckling toner.
- If the hair is in truly bad condition, or if it has been colored with box dye in the past, or for whatever reason if it is just not lifting beyond level 7. you can color it with a 7.1b ( blue based light ash blonde) with an inch of green used as an additive. This will help you get to a correct ash blonde result and counteract the yellowness of the level 7.
Q. How do you tone down orange or yellow hair?
- Orange means it really has not been lifted enough.
- If you are not managing to lift with your bleach, you might like to consider changing brands.
- A good quality lightener (like Brilliant Blonde) will lift all the way to level 9/10 safely and effectively.
Q. How do you get rid of brassy hair without toner?
- Lift with Brilliant Blonde all the way to level 10.
- Then use our purple shampoo and purple mask. It will give a good toning result.
- Note that in general we prefer to recommend these products as maintenance products rather than as toners.
- But they do contain a lot of purple pigments and they will do the job well if you don't have our regular toners handy.
"I have been a hairstylist for 8 years and I have never seen a product like that works as well as Ugly Duckling. UD is a miracle color line. The bleach, toner and shampoo is amazing. The bleach brought my level 3-4 pre-colored hair to a level 9 with two processes and little damage. The pearl blonde toner killed the yellow tones, leaving it a nice, neutral blonde that I love. My friend and I were completely amazed. If I were to ever open my own salon, I would definitely consider using the entire UD line in my salon. There is simply nothing better." - Facebook Review)  => Array ( [id_cms] => 43 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 1 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How to Bleach Hair Without Damaging it - Step by Step Guide + Pictures + Video Tutorial [meta_description] => Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Hair Bleaching - Proven Professional Techniques That You can Use RIght Now [meta_keywords] => bleach,hair lightener,video tutorial,no damage,hair toning after bleaching,developer mix,how long to leave bleach in hair,20 Vol,40 Vol [content] =>
Need to Bleach Hair Without Damaging It?
Want to Bleach Hair From Black?
Want to Know Which Peroxide to Use?
Want to Bleach & Go White Blonde?
Learn Everything About Bleaching in this Step-by-Step Tutorial!
Case 1 - Bleaching a Dark Regrowth From Black
Hair by Elona Taki
Case 2 - Bleaching a Black Regrowth Taking it Icy White Blonde
Hair by Elona Taki
Case 3 - Bleaching a Brassy Regrowth on Medium Blonde Natural Base, Ends Yellow
Hair by Brittney Perez
Case 4 - Bleaching Hair (Full Head) From Black
Hair by Ashley Betancourt
Case 5 - Bleaching Virgin Dark Hair Blonde
Hair by Ashley Betancourt
1. Which products do I Need For Bleaching?
- A salon quality lightener. If you are looking for a gentle bleach & you are concerned about possible hair damage, you need to use Brilliant Blondexx lightener with Bond Protect. It contains bond protect to protect the hair as it lifts. You can do near-root & near-scalp applications with it.
- Most importantly, you won't need to do repeat applications if you use this because it lifts up to 7 levels.
- You will also need 20 or 30 Vol developer, depending on the lift required and the area which you are lifting.
- Use 20 Vol near the root area and either 20 or 30 Vol on the lengths depending on the degree of lift required.
- You will also need a toner. This is what will take your hair to white blonde. We will give you detailed toner suggestions later on in this blog.
- Purple shampoo and mask to finish. They will take any remaining yellow out of your hair, provide additional toning and hair maintenance. They will help you take your hair & keep it white blonde.
- Coloring tools: a feather brush, a sectioning brush, a mixing bowl, & crocodile clips.
- Rubber gloves to avoid physically touching the product as you apply.
2. What Developer Should I Use with the Bleach?
- If you are aiming to lift by 1-2 levels, use 20 Vol developer
- If you are aiming to lift by 3 levels and more, use 30 Vol developer.
- For the root area, it is better to use 20 Vol developer.
- If you are using Ugly Duckling bleaches you should not need to use 40 Vol with bleach - ever.
3. What is the Correct Bleach to Developer Ratio? How do I Mix the Bleach With the Developer?
- We generally recommend a mix of 1 part Bleach to 2 parts developer.
- This will give you a fairly runny mix which will be easy and quick to apply.
- Mix the bleach until it forms a smooth consistency (similar to gravy).
- Do this in a plastic mixing bowl. Add the developer to the powder bleach a little at a time, stirring as you do.
- Our recommended "fairly runny" mix will make it easier to cover all the hair evenly, thus avoiding patchy results.
- It will also allow you to work fast. This also means you have longer to work before the mixture turns dry.
- The only time you will need a thicker mixture which won't drip is when you are doing a balayage (free painting of highlights) or when you have a small area - for example a dark regrowth which you want to focus on.
- If a thicker mix is preferred, 1 part lightener to 1 part developer is good.
What a Bleach Mix with Brilliant Blondexx Looks Like - White & Creamy: Not Too Runny, Not Too Thick.
4. Where & How do I Apply the Bleach Mixture - Regrowth application?
- If your client's hair looks like Case 1, 2 or 3 then you only need to apply bleach on the regrowth area.
- It is particularly important that you use a quality bleach when applying on this area.
- Make your mixture of Brilliant Blondexx with 20 Vol. peroxide (developer)
- If you have a very black regrowth and it does not lift sufficiently in 30 minutes, you can always do a quick shorter second application making a fresh mix. This is better than bumping up peroxide strength on the root area.
- Remember that even when doing the root area you don't need to apply the bleach mixture directly right onto the scalp.
- If you stop an eighth of an inch away, the mixture will travel up and process with the heat from the scalp.
- If your lengths are very white, you need to be careful not to overlap the bleach onto the white parts. Otherwise you will get breakage.
- If you have overlapped by mistake, wipe back the mixture during processing and you should be fine.
Near Root application with Brilliant Blondexx Bleach
Brilliant Blondexx Bleach processing for 35 min near the root.
(The formula is gentle and is comfortable on the scalp)
5. Where & How Should I Apply the Bleach Mixture - Full Head Application?
- If your client's entire head is dark, you will need to do a full head application (like Case 4 & 5 above).
- Section the hair into 4 large sections with sectioning clips.
- Then unclip one section and create mini half-inch sections using your tail comb.
- Start applying bleach in the back of the head where the hair is usually darkest and thickest, working your way round to the front sections, in half-inch sections.
- Make sure that you saturate the hair properly with the product mixture. You need to literally smother the hair with bleach.
- Work fast so that that you can give the whole head an equal amount of processing time.
- Also, you don’t want the mixture to dry out before it is applied.
- Always keep at least half an inch away from the scalp.
- If you are looking to lift all the way from the root, return to the last half inch (nearest to the root) after having applied everywhere else.
- The part nearest the scalp will process the fastest because it is getting heat from the scalp.
- Try and avoid actually touching the scalp unless your bleach mix is a fairly mild one.
- If you have been using 30 Vol developer for the lengths, it is a good idea to make a fresh mix, with 20 Vol this time for the root area.
- This way you can have better control and avoid over lifting the root area.
Section the hair, then start applying the bleach from the back.
6. How Long should I leave the Bleach Mixture in the Hair? How Long Does it Take to Bleach Hair?
- There is no fixed development time for bleach, you need to keep watching and rinse when the hair has been sufficiently lifted.
- The development time can vary from 15 minutes to 30 minutes, depending on the starting hair color level, texture, and thickness.
- You need to check that the hair is lifting every 10 minutes. When you do that, test also by pulling one strand of hair to be sure that the hair is still elastic and strong and taking well to bleach.
- Add in more mixture if you can see that there are parts which are lifting more slowly or parts where the bleach mixture is drying out.
- If you are running out of product at this stage, don't hesitate to make a fresh mix. It will help you lift quickly.
- Wash off when the hair reaches the desired level.
- Above all, make sure you do not rinse too early - this is the number one mistake that stylists make!
- If you are trying to do a true ash blonde, you should try and take the hair to a level 10 (see bleaching levels below and also the picture of what level 10 looks like)
- After 30 minutes, rinse whatever the level. It will be dry anyway, and will have stopped working. (Bleach stops processing when it turns dry).
- If you have not attained level 10, and provided the hair is still in good condition (ie it's still elastic and strong) you can do a second application.
- Asian hair, Hispanic hair, other dark hair may require a second bleach application to take it to level 10.
- Hair that has been box dyed dark will also require a second application.
- When you are doing a second application, it should not be necessary to use 30 Vol 20 Vol should generally be quite sufficient.
- You need to get rid of all the orange pigments and also most of the yellow pigments before you rinse.
- When you get to your target level, rinse using an acidic shampoo. This will close the hair cuticle after the bleaching process.
- The chart below shows the stages of hair bleaching - what the hair will look like as you bleach the hair.
- If you are looking to bleach your hair and take it to white blonde, it is important that you take it as close to level 9 or 10 as possible.
- Yellow hair (see levels 8 below) means you have not bleached enough.
- Orange hair (see levels 7 below) means you definitely have not bleached enough!
- Do not be lazy and attempt to dump in toner or purple shampoo onto hair thinking when it has not been properly lifted - you will not get a good result that way!
- Please check out the image of hair color level 10 just below & aim to get your hair as close to this as possible.
Hair At Level 10 After Bleaching - This is What You Need to Aim For
7. How do I bleach hair evenly?
- Very often clients have hair which is different colors.
- They could have, for example (a) a regrowth area which is dark virgin hair (b) mid-lengths which have been colored one color and are now orange and (c) ends which have been lightened several times and are really pale white blonde.
- In such cases you as the hairdresser will need to have a clear bleaching strategy.
- You will need to figure out which areas need the most lifting and apply bleach first on those areas.
- You may need to divide up your client's hair mentally into 3 different sections and apply bleach at different times to each section.
- You may also need to keep watching as your customer's hair develops and then add more bleach onto sections which are not lifting fast enough.
- When you are doing this, you should make separate mixes as necessary, using either 20 or 30 Vol.
- You should not attempt to tone until you have brought your client's hair to one consistent color level and the hair has been bleached evenly.
8. How do I Bleach Hair to White?
- You will need to tone the hair with a good quality toner. Otherwise there will always be some yellow left.
- The pictures above & the videos below all involved the use of Ugly Duckling toners.
- Ugly Duckling toners are very fast acting & they remove any remaining yellowness in the hair. They act in 10- 15 minutes. They can be applied on wet hair which has been towel dried after bleaching.
- Use Intense Pearl Blonde 100V or Intense Silver Blonde 100B if your are looking for ultra white results and your hair still has a fair amount of yellow.
- Use Pearl Blonde Toner 10V or Silver Blonde Toner 10B if you are have already achieved a true level 10 and you are looking to do a refresh toning applications.
- Ugly Duckling has other colors such as the blue based ash blonde series which also work very well for toning applications.
9. How Should I Rinse The Hair After Bleaching and Toning?
- First rinse with water.
- Then use Ugly Duckling Purple Shampoo or Mask for additional toning.
- Purple Shampoo and Mask can also be used as a maintenance treatment to keep your color white and ashy.
- Ugly Duckling's Purple Shampoo and Mask contain very intense pigments which help fight yellow.
- They are also low pH formula and wil help close the cuticle after bleaching and restore it to a healthy condition.
- See pictures below.
9. How Should I Bleach Hair At Home?
- In general, we don't recommend you bleach at home unless you are very good at coloring & a professional
- But if you are a home stylist, or you have significant previous experience, just follow the steps above, use the correct products & techniques and you should be fine.
- Just remember - never compromise on product quality because it will make a difference to your hair.
- Make sure you have the right products at hand: Brilliant Blondexx bleach, developer (peroxide) of the right strength, your chosen toner, and your purple shampoo & mask. Plus your coloring tools (also available at Ugly Duckling) and some rubber gloves & cape or apron.
VIDEO TUTORIAL (1) - HOW TO BLEACH HAIR & TONE - REGROWTH CASE
Hair by Elona Taki.
(1) Our model had previously lightened blonde hair with a dark regrowth. It was also very very long - about a yard!
(2) It was also rather fragile.
(3) We used Brilliant Blondexx and 20 Vol and lifted her root area all the way up to a level 10.
(4) Then we toned with Pearl Blonde toner and 20 Vol
(5) Finally, we did one very vigorous and thorough application of Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo to take out any remaining yellow and to even the whole thing out.
(6) The result was a perfect white blonde result - and no damage!
Watch the Video!
PRODUCTS USED IN VIDEO:
- Brilliant Blondexx Bond Protect Lightener
- 20 Vol Developer
- Pearl Blonde Toner
- Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo
VIDEO TUTORIAL (2) - HOW TO DEAL WITH DARK REGROWTH WHEN THE LENGTHS ARE SUPER WHITE BLONDE
Hair by Elona Taki
(1) This model had a very dark regrowth but extremely white lengths.
(2) Here the challenge was to take care of the regrowth without overlapping on the lengths and compromising hair quality.
(3) In such cases, avoid overloading the overlap area with product - wipe off with a towel during processing time as you can see in the video.
PRODUCTS USED IN VIDEO:
- Brilliant Blonde Lightener
- 30 Vol Developer
- Silver Blonde
- Pearl Blonde Toner
- 10 Vol Developer
Her scalp was less irritated with Brilliant Blondexx than when I use regular bleach <img alt=")  => Array ( [id_cms] => 48 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 2 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How to Color Hair (Step by Step + Video) [meta_description] => Learn How to Get Vibrant Color Results: Application, Developer Mix Ratios, Processing Times [meta_keywords] => how to color hair,how to dye hair,how to emulsify [content] =>
1. Apply hair dye on dry, unwashed hair
- All hair dye has been designed to work best on dry, unwashed hair.
- The oil from your hair will protect the scalp while it is being colored.
- All you need to do to prepare the hair for coloring is comb it finely so that you are ready to start sectioning.
2. Assess how many levels you are lifting
- Do a very accurate assessment of every part of your client's hair.
- The key questions you need to ask yourself are (a) "What level is the hair now?" and (b) "What level do you need to lighten in to?"
- The difference between the two will help you determine the strength of developer you will use and whether pre-lightening is required or not.
- If the regrowth area is darker than the lengths, and you are looking for one consistent color, you will need to deal with that part first using either lightener or a high lift color.
- You need to make the whole head one consistent level of color before doing a full head color application.
3. Choose the correct strength of developer.
- For level on level coloring, use 10 Vol developer.
- For 1-2 levels lift, use 20 Vol developer.
- For 2-3 levels lift, use 30 Vol developer.
- For 3 levels, use 40 Vol developer.
- For more than 3 levels, use either a high lift color or do pre-lightening.
- If you are toning we generally recommend 20 Vol not 10 Vol. You will get better vibrancy that way.
- Similarly, if there is a lot of grey hair to be covered, we recommend 20 Vol. You will be able to open the cuticle up more and get better color penetration using 20 Vol developer.
4. Measure the hair dye and developer carefully.
- The right mix between hair dye and developer will have a huge impact on the hair color result.
- If you put in too little developer, you won’t be opening the hair cuticle enough.
- If you put in too much developer, you will be lightening the hair but not depositing enough hair dye and the color won’t last.
- So always measure your hair dye and developer properly. How do you measure? Ideally, we recommend using either kitchen scales or a measuring bowl with markers.
- For most Ugly Duckling hair color, the correct mix is 1 part hair dye to 1 part developer.
- For high lift colors, the correct mix is 1 part hair dye to 2 parts developer.
- For toners, the correct mix is 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
5. An Easy Way to Measure the Hair Dye
- If you are bad at using kitchen scales and if your bowl does not have clear markers, you can look at the volume of contents marked on your products & work in that way.
- For example, just remember that one tube of Ugly Duckling Hair Color contains 3.5 oz of color
- So for Ugly Duckling colors, if you are using 1 whole tube, you need to pour in 3.5 oz of developer
- For Ugly Duckling toners and high lift colors, again for 1 tube, you will need to pour in 7 oz of developer.
This is what a 1:1 hair color mix looks like - 1 part color to 1 part developer.
6. Section the hair correctly before applying hair dye
- Part the hair into big sections. Tie up sections with a clip.
- Leave one section (usually the lower back section) down.
- On the unclipped section, start taking ¼ inch mini-sections in order to apply the color with your dye brush.
- Lift each strand up and apply color from just away from the scalp to the ends.
- Neat, even. fine sectioning is really really important. Otherwise the whole thing will end up being a mess!
- Once you have completed 1 big section in this way, pin up again. Then start on another section and do mini sections on this one in the same way.
- Repeat on all sections until you have finished coloring the hair.
Section hair into large sections and pin up.
7. Use Enough Product.
- In order to get the most vibrant color possible, you must use enough product mix and you must saturate the hair properly.
8. Use your fingers to do the coloring a second time
- Run through the hair a second time after applying the color, with fingers (wearing gloves). Don't hesitate to make a fresh mix if you have run out of product.
- Ugly Duckling color tubes are fairly large - 3.5 oz compared to the usual 2 or 2.5 oz. So one tube of color with 7 oz of developer should give enough mix for most full head applications.
- By using your fingers you can spread out the color (avoid patches) and also deposit more color into the cortex just as the cuticle is opening up.
- This is what makes the color really intense and vibrant when you are dyeing hair.
- If your customer has white hair, you should also cross-check how well you have covered the white hair by re-sectioning the hair and checking that all white hair has been properly covered.
- Some areas such as the nape area are particularly resistant and you need to pay particular attention here. Avoid using combs to color or re-color, as you can end up ruining the hair cuticles which have been opened in the coloring process.
Using fingers for a second color application
9. Respect the processing time
- For most colors, the processing time is 30 minutes.
- For toners, rinse off when the correct color appears (around 10-15 minutes is normal).
- For high lift colors: up to 40 minutes.
- Be aware that hair at the scalp processes faster than anywhere else due to the heat of the scalp.
- You need to watch this area when going lighter and be prepared to rinse as soon as this area looks done, even if this is before the 30 minutes are up.
Color all done and processing
- Before rinsing, add a little water to the color and rub at the scalp area.
- Then rub well around the hairline first, then middle and nape.
- This process is known as emulsification.
- It helps lock in the color into the hair, and gives you really vibrant, long-lasting color results plus hair that feels full and very well conditioned.
11. Shampoo using an acidic (low pH) sulfate-free shampoo, conditioner or mask.
- Use an acidic shampoo and conditioner.
- This will help close the hair cuticle, lock in the color and return the hair to its natural pH level.
- Don't assume all professional shampoo and mask is acidic and sulfate free. You will need to check on the label.
Video Tutorial 1
Violet and Silver Blonde Shadow Root. Hair by Elona Taki
- Brilliant Blonde Lightener for re-growth
- Violet with Intense Silver Blonde for root area
- Intense Silver Blonde 100B for lengths
- 20 Vol Developer
Video Tutorial 2
Lifting Dark Virgin Hair with High Lift Color - No Bleach. Hair by Elona Taki
100.11 High Lift Deep Ash Blonde
40 Vol Developer
Video Tutorial 3
Lifting and Toning Asian Hair Blonde. Hair by Elona Taki
Brilliant Blonde Lightener
Pearl Blonde Toner 10V
20 Vol Developer
- NB For a new client we always recommend a patch test 24 hours in advance.
- Here's how to do it: make a tiny mix of the color to be used and developer and apply onto the nape area just behind the ear.
- If your client gets no reaction within 24 hours, that's good and you can go ahead and apply the color.
What does the Developer do when I mix it with the Color?
- The developer is essentially hydrogen peroxide in a cream base.
- It helps open the hair cuticle and activate the hair color.
Which Developer Strength Should I Use?
- Use 10 Vol for level on level coloring and tone-down
- Use 20 Vol for 1-2 levels lift
- Use 30 Vol for 2-3 levels lift
- Use 40 Vol for 3 levels lift and more.
- Whatever strength you use, the mix stays the same.
- People sometimes think they can put in more developer to achieve greater lift. Not true.
- If your hair is too dark and you want to lift a lot, first vary the developer strength as above.
- If that does not give you the lift you are looking for, the answer is to use high lift color or bleach, not add in more developer!
What is the Right Mix Ratio for Ugly Duckling Color, Toner & Bleach?
- The recommended mix ratio for Ugly Duckling Color is 1 part color to 1 part developer for most of our colors.
- The recommended mix ratio for Ugly Duckling Toners (Intense Pearl Blonde, Intense Silver Blonde, Pearl Blonde Toner, Silver Blonde Toner) is 1 part color to 2 parts developer.
- The recommended mix For Ugly Ducking High Lift Colors (anything beginning with the number 100) is also 1 part color to 2 parts developer.
- The recommended mix for Ugly Duckling Bleach (Brilliant Blonde), is 1 part Brilliant Blonde to 2 parts color.
How Should I Get the Color & Developer Ratio Right?
- If you are new to coloring, use weighing scales. Set the scale to zero with an empty coloring bowl on it.
- Then add in your color into the bowl and weigh again, so you know exactly how much you have out in.
- Do the same when you add in the developer.
- You can also measure color off of the percentage of tube squeezed. For example, Ugly Duckling color tubes contain 3.5 oz.
- So if you are using a whole tube of Ugly Duckling color, you need 7 oz of developer. (1:1 ratio)
- If you are using a whole tube of Ugly Duckling toner or high lift color, you need 14 oz of developer (1: 2 ratio)
What Happens If I Put Too Much Developer In The Dye?
- Your mix will be more wet, more runny.
- If it is way too runny, you may end up lightening the hair, but not depositing enough color. It will end up thinner, flatter and last less long.
Are There Any Cases Where it is a Good Idea to Deliberately Put in Extra Developer?
- Putting in more developer will give you a runnier solution.
- This is helpful when you want to saturate the hair (cover the hair with product) really really well and evenly. You will get a more even color result and you will tend to avoid patches.This is particularly important in full head applications.
- A runnier solution will allow you to work fast. This may be an important factor when your client's hair is long and you want to give all the hair the same processing time roots to ends.
- Very often, expert colorists tend to go with a runnier solution for the above reasons. Many of the artists who produce video tutorials for Ugly Duckling do actually use fairly runny mixes (See below)
- Even when going with a runnier solution, aim at a maximum mix of 1:1.5 for Ugly Duckling Color and 1:2.5 mix for Ugly Duckling Lighteners (Brilliant Blonde) and toners. Any more and you may be compromising color results.
What Happens If I Put Too Little Developer in The Dye?
- Your mix will be too dry, and you won't be able to saturate the hair properly with product and you may also get uneven and patchy color results.
- You will not be lifting out enough of the hair's natural melanin.
- This will mean you may end up with darker hair than you wished for.
Are There Any Cases Where it is A Good Idea to Deliberately Put in Too Little Developer?
- It will help if you want to do a balayage technique (free painting with dye brush) and you want to position the color accurately and not have any product dripping off the brush.
- Balayage artists tend to work with thicker color mixes. This helps avoid putting on too much product in one go and thus avoid visible lines of demarcation.
- It will also help if you are looking to do grey hair coverage and your client has difficult to cover grey hair. You will get a darker color result, but you will be able to improve grey hair coverage.
- Even when going for a less runny solution, aim at a minimum mix of 1:0.8 for Ugly Duckling Color and 1:1.5 mix for Ugly Duckling Lightener (Brilliant Blonde) and toners.
Watch Some Videos of How To Mix Ugly Duckling Color with Developer:[link_rewrite] => what-happens-if-you-put-too-much-developer-in-your-dye [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] =>
"I was looking for a brilliant silver that didnt have crappy blue undertones. I decided to try Ugly Duckling after watching several videos of it being used with Olaplex. I absolutely loved my results. No crappy blue I had to wait weeks to wash out so I was left with my silver, it was just a gorgeous silver right away and 4 months later it still has the pretty silver going. My hair looked and felt shiny and soft. I love the products and stock up so I don't chance running out when I need to touch up!" - Facebook Review.)  => Array ( [id_cms] => 47 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 4 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => The Hair Color Wheel - The 7 Secrets to Color Neutralization and Tone Correction that All Hair Stylists Need to Know! [meta_description] => How to Use the Color Wheel When Coloring Hair| Color Correction | Using Color to Cancel Out Color | FAQ, Recipes & 3 Video Tutorials! [meta_keywords] => hair color wheel,color neutralization,using blue to neutralize,using violet to neutralize,using green to neutralize,my hair pulls orange,color correction using ash tones [content] =>
Each color has a relationship with every other color. The Hair Color Wheel is a way of showing this relationship.
Q: How can the Hair Color Wheel Help me as a Colorist?
The following color neutralization issues are very common in a hair salon:
- You lifted a customer’s hair with bleach but there is still yellow left in the hair.
- You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to blonde but there is still orange left in the hair.
- You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to brown but there is still red left in the hair.
A: What You Can Do:
You can use the Hair Color Wheel for color neutralization
- Green cancels out red on hair that has been lifted to brown or light brown.
- Blue cancels out orange on hair that has been lifted to dark blonde.
- Violet cancels out yellow on hair that has been lifted to blonde.
- In each case you are using the opposite color on the color wheel to counteract the unwanted red, orange and yellow.
- The technique here is to add in a very small quantity of the opposite color.
- The normal mix ratio would be 1 inch of green/blue/violet added to 1 tube of regular color. Add in the same amount of developer.
IN THE VIDEO BELOW, GREEN WAS ADDED TO 7.1 to NEUTRALIZE AN IMPOSSIBLY ORANGE HAIR COLOR. WATCH NOW!
Hair by Elona Taki
Q: Can I also use Ash Based Colors to Kill Brassy, Orange or Yellow Hair?
A: Yes, by using Ugly Duckling's Ash Colors.
- Ugly Duckling's regular ash colors are green based - in fact they contain a lot of green! (more than most color ranges).
- They go all the way up to level 10.
- 3.11, 4.11, 5.11 are double ash reflects - extra amounts of green based ash to fight red on dark bases.
- Ugly Duckling also has a blue based ash series. These go from 6.1b up to 10.1b.
- The blue based ash colors are excellent for fighting yellow on medium blonde and light blonde bases.
- So as a general rule, when fighting redness on relatively dark bases, choose the green based ashes.
- And when fighting yellow on relatively light bases, choose the blue based ashes.
- Incidentally, note that both ash colors also give very pretty and distinct reflects on their own.
IN THE VIDEO BELOW, WE DO COLOR CORRECTION USING 7.1b and 8.1b to CANCEL OUT YELLOW
Hair by Elona Taki
Q: Is there Any Other Way of Neutralizing Warm Tones?
A: Yes, you can also add in ash additives:
- Ash Grey Additive has been developed to add in green for bases up to level 6. You can add in an inch of this into your color mix. This helps counteract brassiness (yellow/orange) in brown hair.
- Ash Blue Additive has been developed to add in blue for bases 6 and up. You can add in an inch of this into your color mix. This helps counteract brassiness (yellow) in blonde hair.
- The recommended technique here is to squeeze in a little of your chosen ash additive (around 1 inch is good to start with) to a full tube of the blonde color that you are using.
- Note that these additives will tend to take your color level down by about 1 tone.
Q: Can I also use Toners to Kill Brassy, Orange or Yellow?
A: Yes, you can - but you need to get the hair correctly pre-lightened to level 9/10
- Ugly Duckling's toner range have been formulated with exactly that aim in mind.
- They have very fast acting pigments which typically neutralize in around 10 minutes.
- Use Intense Pearl Blonde 100V or Intense Silver Blonde 100B for first time applications or when the color is still yellow (level 9)
- Use Pearl Blonde Toner or Silver Blonde Toner when the lift is correct (level 10).
- When using toners it is really important to pre-lighten dark areas of the hair and get everything up to as close to level 9/10 as possible.
Q: I'm doing all that but I am still not getting the Ashy Blonde Result that I am looking for. What am I doing wrong?
A: Almost certainly you need to lift the hair more.
- If you are looking for a white blonde or an ashy blonde, color neutralization from a dark level will not work.
- Almost certainly you need to lift the hair more.
- Use a quality lightener and lift the hair up, ideally all the way to level 10. That way you will get rid of all yellow and orange.
- Then apply a toner as above.
Hair that has been correctly lifted to level 9/10
Q: How do I tone down yellow hair?
A: Use Ugly Duckling Intense Toners
- In general, we always recommend that you first lift the hair correctly (see picture above) before attempting to tone.
- If you have done that, and the hair is still yellow, use Ugly Duckling's Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V or Intense Silver Blonde Toner 100B.
- These toners have a special "booster" in them which will get rid of any remaining yellow.
- This is what makes them among the most effective toners on the market today.
- Use with 20 Vol developer in a 1:2 mix.
- Try & work fast because these toners are very fast acting & you want to give all the hair an equal processing time as much as possible.
- If you have long hair, tone the root area the last - it will process very fast there because of the heat from the scalp.
Q: My hair pulls orange. What should I do?
A: Sorry, there is no such thing as hair that "pulls orange."
- There is, however, such a thing as a stylist that does not lift enough!
- Don't misuse the color wheel and think you can just dump in ash and more ash and kill brassiness. It doesn't work like that.
- Hair has its natural melanin which is causing that orange and that brassiness. You need to remove that first.
- Lift up the hair to a true level 9/10. Use a quality lightener that works well on dark hair.
- Then apply your ash toners as above. You will get a much better result.
Q: My customer has dark hair. She wants to go blonde. How do I get rid of all the orange as I lift?
A: It is totally possible to lift dark hair all the way up and get rid of all orange or yellow.
- The key is lifting and continue to lift until you get to a very consistent level 9/10. Then tone.
- We do recommend you use Brilliant Blonde when you have "heavy lifting" to do. It lifts faster and more than most lighteners on the market.
- We also recommend you use Ugly Duckling pearl blonde and silver toners. They are very heavily pigmented and provide for fast and effective toning.
Watch This Video to See Dark Hair Bleached Correctly and Toned to Pearl Blonde in One Sitting
- Brilliant Blonde Lightener
- Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V
- Purple Shampoo and Mask
Hair by Ashley Betancourt[link_rewrite] => the-hair-color-wheel [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 38 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 5 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How To Get Ash Blonde Hair - Get Rid of Your Brassy Hair Once And For All! [meta_description] => Getting to Ash Blonde is Easy | Follow our Step-by-Step Techniques and Get Your Hair To A True White Ash Blonde No Matter How Brassy it is Today! [meta_keywords] => Ash Blonde ,hair color,Ash Blonde From Yellow,How to get ash blonde hair,Ash Blonde From Yellow,dark regrowth,kill brassiness [content] =>
Ash Blonde Hair by Elona Taki
Are you looking to achieve the perfect Ash Blonde Hair Color From Yellow? Are you Trying to Achieve the Perfect Ash Blonde? Then Read This Step-by-Step Guide...
- Are you finding it hard to get the right result?
- Is your final result coming in too yellow, too brassy? Are you finding that your ash blonde result is not white enough?
- Relax, these are very very common issues in a hair salon. We can help you achieve perfection whatever the hair color type of your client.
- In this tutorial, we will show you how you can tone yellow, orange or even dark hair to ash. It is possible to get to ash blonde whatever your hair color today provided you use the right techniques & the right products.
First Step: Pre-lighten Any Dark Hair
- As you can see in the picture above, our model had a very dark regrowth area.
- We needed to get the whole hair up to a consistent level 9/10.
- In this case you need to apply lightener. We recommend Brilliant Blonde. It has been developed for dark bases, and lifts safely and effectively.
- For hair above level 6 and for the root area, use 20 Vol developer.
- For dark hair 5 and below on the lengths, use 30 Vol developer.
- Make a mix of 1 part lightener to 2 parts developer and apply on all dark areas.
- Aim to really saturate the hair with product, as you can see in the picture below, Otherwise it won't work well.
Brilliant Blonde Lightener with 20 Vol
Second Step: Rinse Hair When You Have Got It To Level 10
- Keep checking the hair while the mix is developing and rinse only when you have got it up to a level 10.
- In this example, as the rest of the hair was already very light blonde, we did not overlap the areas.
Hair after rinsing: a consistent level 10.
Third Step: Choose The Right Toner and Apply
- We recommend you use Ugly Duckling Toners. They are very fast acting and have very strong pigments for quick neutralization of brassy or yellow hair. They will take any yellow hair to white blonde. They also produce extremely ashy results.
- If it is a first time for you toning with Ugly Duckling toners, then use either intense pearl blonde toner or intense silver blonde toner. These contain an extra booster which help get rid of any remaining yellowness or brassiness.
- If it is second time toning application with Ugly Duckling, use the no-lift pearl blonde toner or no-lift silver blonde toner.
- Mix your toner with a 10 or 20 Vol. developer.
- Keep the mix at 1 part toner to 2 parts developer. This will give you a runny mix, and help you saturate well and evenly.
- Apply on the lengths first, then the root area (the root area processes faster).
- Work fast because the toner works fast and you must try and give all your hair the same amount of development time.
- As you apply, you will see the product start to change color and turn greyish blue. These pigments are there to fight the yellow and get you to a true ash color.
- Watch carefully and rinse when the hair has turned the color you want. Normally, around 10 -15 minutes of toning is enough.
- Rinse when the correct level is achieved.
Ugly Duckling toner during processing. You can see how the pigments are coloring the hair.
Fourth Step: Apply Purple Shampoo and Mask
- After rinsing, apply Purple Shampoo and Mask.
- These products will add in purple pigments which will help kill any remaining yellow.
- These products are also low pH and will help close the cuticles as well as kill any remaining yellow.
- You need to use a lot of product and rub in really well to allow an efficient transfer of purple pigments into the hair.
- You can let the purple shampoo sit for around 5 minutes, then rinse.
- For the purple mask, you can leave it in for around 10 minutes, preferably under a plastic cap, with gentle heat.
- This helps the color transfer of violet pigments which kill yellow.
- Brilliant Blonde purple shampoo and mask can both be used as a maintenance product, and not just immediately after bleaching and coloring.
Result: Consistent Ash Blonde Hair
Hair Color by Elona Taki.
Looking For Ash Blonde Hair? Watch This Video!
1. Are You Looking To Lift or Lighten Hair Without Using Bleach?
If you are looking to get lift and you want to avoid using bleach, it is possible to do so using Ugly Duckling’s High Lift Deep Ash Blonde.
- High Lift Deep Ash Blonde gives up to 5 levels of lift without using bleach.
- This product also contains an extra large dose of ash pigments to neutralize the hair as it lifts.
- It helps the final hair result from getting too warm or ashy.
- Ugly Duckling also has some other high lift colors to help you get other blonde or ash blonde hair color results.
2. Which High Lift Color Should I use?
All Ugly Duckling High Lift Colors begin with a 100.
For a regular blonde look, use High Lift Blonde 100.
3. How Do I Apply High Lift Hair Color?
- The mix ratios for high lift colors is 1 part color to 2 parts developer.
- Use 30 Vol developer if you are applying to get up to 5 levels of lift.
- If you have a darker or regrowth area that needs a lot of lift, as in the picture below, you need to deal with that area first.
- Apply the mix first on this area.
- Wait 20 minutes or until the hair has lifted all the way up to the lengths.
- Now make a fresh mix, with 20 Vol this time, and apply to the rest of the hair.
Before: Regrowth of Level 6, Mid-Lengths Blonde But Washed Out.
Mix 100.11 with 30 Vol.
Apply to Root Area First to Lift It. Apply To Hair Ends in the Final 20 Minutes.
The Final result. Consistent Deep Ash Blonde Result.
Looking to Get This Color Result?
If you would like to get the product used for your salon or your hair coloring, please go to High Lift Deep Ash Blonde 100.11.
Color Tutorial by Elona Taki.
High Lift Deep Ash Blonde can also be used as a Balayage product to lift totally dark hair.
WATCH THIS VIDEO by ELONA TAKI[link_rewrite] => no-bleach-hair-dye [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 66 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 7 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => 5 Insanely Beautiful Shadow Root Recipes That You Can Do Today! [meta_description] => How to do Shadow Roots| 5 Recipes & Techniques | Step by Step Video Tutorial [meta_keywords] => Shadow Root,Ombre,Color Correction,color melt [content] =>
Shadow Root by Elona Taki
We have created 5 shadow root looks for you, with techniques and recipes! Create these looks in your salon today!
1. Subtle Blonde Shadow Root
Color by Elona Taki
- Our model came in with a very large regrowth area and light ends.
- We applied 5.11 with 20 Vol on the first 4 inches of the root area.
- We blended that into 6N with 20 Vol on the rest of the regrowth.
- Remember to interweave when sectioning in order to achieve a seamless transition.
- We applied 100.21 Intense Pearl Blonde with 20 Vol on to the ends.
- Processing time was around 30 minutes for the dark colors, around 15 minutes on the already pre-lightened ends.
- We rinsed.
- Finally, Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo was applied, rubbed in for 5 minutes to equalize the whole hair and rinsed.
2. Blonde Shadow Root on a Dark Base
Color by Ashley Betancourt
- Our model had naturally very dark hair (level 3).
- We wanted to give her a look which would show a dark color blending into something much much lighter.
- We applied Brilliant Blonde lightener and 40 Vol to lift her roots to pale yellow.
- We applied a mix of 5.11 and 6N with 20 Vol to her roots.
- We applied a mix of 100.20, 100.21 and Clear to the ends.
- Once again, we took care to blend the two color areas to avoid an obvious line of demarcation.
- We processed and rinsed.
3. Violet and Silver Blended Root
Color by Elona Taki
- This look went viral on the internet.
- It is a stunning look which at the same time is surprisingly quite easy to wear - hence its popularity.
- Brilliant Blonde with 30 Vol to lift the hair all the way up to a very pale yellow.
- Violet mixed with 100.20 (2 parts 100.20, 1 part Violet) on the roots - 20 Vol Developer.
- 100.20 with 20 Vol on the ends.
- Taper between the 2 areas.
4. Blue and Silver Shadow Root
Color by Elona Taki
- Lift hair to very pale yellow with Brilliant Blonde
- Apply Blue with 20 Vol on the roots.
- Apply Silver Grey and 100.20 on the ends.
- Taper between the 2 areas.
5. Brown to Pearl Blonde Shadow Root
Watch This Step by Step Video of a Brown to Pearl Blonde Shadow Root:
- Apply 5.11 at the root and 6N away from the root, both mixed with 20 Vol
- Apply 100V (100.21) Intense Pearl Blonde Toner for lengths, also mixed with 20 Vol
- Purple Shampoo to tone.
SHADOW ROOT BRUSH
Use the Ugly Duckling Shadow Root Brush to achieve all the looks above!
[link_rewrite] => how-to-do-a-shadow-root-look [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 53 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 8 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => Argan Oil And Hair Color - The Ultimate Guide [meta_description] => Treatment Hair Color with Argan Oil [meta_keywords] => Hair Color,Argan Oil [content] =>
Why Use Argan Oil For Hair Color?
- Argan Oil, sometimes known as Moroccan Oil, is a product of the Moroccan Argan tree. It has been called “Liquid Gold” by the haircare industry, because its benefits are truly amazing.
- It is easily absorbed by the hair cuticles, nourishing dry hair and making hair shine with health and radiance.
- It contains vitamin E and fatty acids and it helps to smooth even the frizziest of hair and it restores bounce, giving an immediate and dramatic impact on the hair.
- Hair coloring using oxidative dyes, if done incorrectly, can impose stress on your hair.
- But when Argan Oil is used in the coloring process, it penetrates the hair at the cortex level, giving profound benefits during and after the hair color process.
Ugly Duckling - Hair Color with Argan Oil.
Benefits of Argan Oil When Coloring
1. Shinier Hair
The oil helps to close the hair cuticles after coloring. This makes the hair shaft shinier. After blow dry and brushing, the effect is even more pronounced.
2. Softer Hair
The Argan Oil also penetrates into the cortex during the coloring process. This makes the hair quality softer after the coloring.
3. Repairs Brittle Hair
Because the Argan Oil enters into the cortex during the coloring process, it "plumps" the hair from inside and makes the hair fibre, making it less brittle in the process. The Argan Oil helps repair the brittle parts, whether they occur on the ends, in the case of long hair, or mid-lengths, as is sometimes the case with permed or relaxed hair.
4. Makes Ends Stronger, Particularly on Long Hair
Women are growing their hair longer and longer these days. The end of the hair is the oldest part of the hair and as a result tends to be particularly thin and worn. A visit to the stylist and a regular trim at the ends s generally what women do about this. But Argan Oil-based color does act here and does the plumping here, making a visible difference. By using Ugly Duckling color, you can grow your hair longer and still keep the ends in good condition.
5. More Even Color Deposit
Because the hair shaft has been strengthened from the inside, the whole process of coloring works better. The natural pigments can be lightened at a more even rate, and re-pigmentation takes place in a more even way. Result: a more consistent, regular color, more uniform from roots to ends.
6. More Vibrant Color
Because the hair is in better condition, and because the color molecules are more evenly deposited, women who use Ugly Duckling Color on thair hair get a much more vibrant hair color result. Whether it is a rich brown, or an intense violet, or a true cold ash, the result is a true color that s richer, shinier and more vibrant.
To view the choice of hair color available with Argan oil, please visit our Shop Now Page.
Mixing Argan Oil into Color Applications
If you are looking for extra conditioning, you can mix Argan Oil into the hair color and chemical straightening or perming applications. This will give a spectacular boost in the degree of conditioning that you are giving your customer.
This is particularly recommended for bleach and perm applications.
We suggest adding around 15 ml, or 1 tablespoon of Argan oil into the mix of 1 Ugly Duckling hair color tube (3.5 oz) and 200 ml of developer (7 oz)[link_rewrite] => the-ultimate-guide-to-argan-oil-and-hair-color [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 44 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 9 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => Should I Color Roots First or Last? [meta_description] => Hair Color Correction| Going Darker | Going Lighter [meta_keywords] => color correction,regrowth,coloring mid-lengths and ends,color matching,roots first or last [content] =>
SOME GENERAL RULES ABOUT WHETHER TO COLOR ROOTS FIRST OR LAST
- If you are going darker, then start coloring at the roots.
- If you are going lighter, and you have a dark regrowth, you need to deal with the regrowth first and lift it.
- Once you have done so, inspect the hair carefully and always start applying your toner at the part where it needs the most lift.
- In general, you do need to be aware that the root area will always lift the fastest because of the heat coming from the scalp and because it is virgin hair.
Case No.1: Root Area Lighter Then the Ends
- We used Brilliant Blonde and 20 Vol Developer at the root area to deal with a dark regrowth.
- After processing and rinsing the root area was actually lighter than the lengths.
- So when we applied Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V with 10 Vol, we applied first to the lengths, then to the root area.
- In this way we avoided a "hot root" and we got a great result.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE:
Case No.2: Extremely Dark Regrowth, Very Light Ends.
Color Correction by Elona Taki.
- Here we had a huge, extremely dark regrowth. although the lengths were super white blonde.
- There could be banding issues unless we did it right. There could also be breakage issues because the ends were super light.
- We mixed Brilliant Blonde Lightener with 30 Vol. We made it fairly pasty, a little less developer than usual: 1 part lightener to 1.5 parts lightener.
- We wanted to deposit a lot of mixture and really saturate and lift this extremely dark regrowth.
- After rinsing we saw that the part that was the yellowest was 4 - 6 inches away from the root area.
- So when toning, we started applying color on this mid-section area where it was yellow
- Then we applied color elsewhere.
- We toned with Silver Blonde toner (10B) and Pearl Blonde toner (10V), mixed 50/50.
- We used 10 Vol developer.
WATCH THE VIDEO HERE:[link_rewrite] => color-roots-first-or-last [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 58 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 10 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => The Definitive Guide to Using Hair Toners | From Brassy to Ash Blonde [meta_description] => How to Use Hair Toners to Get Rid of Brassy Hair - 3 Steps You Need Follow to to Get Your Hair Blonde [meta_keywords] => hair toner,toner for hair,ugly duckling hair color,hair toners,blonde toners,blonde hair toner,toners for hair,how to use toner on hair,ugly duckling hair,how to use toners,how to mix toners [content] =>
Hair Toned with Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V.
Intense Pearl Blonde Toner Final Result. Hair by Cody Darnell
Hair Toned with No-Lift Pearl Blonde Toner 10V
Pearl Blonde Toner Final Result. Hair by Elona Taki
Looking for a Toner That Will Take Out Yellowness and Brassiness? Here's What You Need to Do!
STEP 1 - LIFT THE BASE FIRST WITH LIGHTENER
- First you need to lift any part of the hair that is too dark to a level 9 before you do any toning.
- In both the cases above the client had a really dark base that needed lifting.
- Use our new Brilliant Blondexx Bond Protect Lightener with 20 Vol or 30 Vol. Developer (only use 20 Vol near the root).
- Good consistent pre-lightening is really essential for good toning!
- Make a mix of 1 part lightener to 2 parts developer and really saturate the dark regrowth area or the whole head depending on what needs lifting.
- Start applying at the back in case of full head applications.
- In the case of regrowth applications apply on the dark regrowth first. Then stretch to other areas if you feel they also need further lifting.
- Remember, the goal is to lift the hair evenly and consistently all the way up to level 10 for best results (see picture below for hair that has been correctly pre-lightened)
- A common mistake is to not lift sufficiently - don't do this or you won't get a really nice result!
- Now you are ready to tone.
STEP 2 - HOW TO MIX TONER, HOW TO USE TONER ON HAIR
- Choose your Ugly Duckling toner from the Ugly Duckling toners below.
- Ugly Duckling toners are very very fast acting, and typically neutralize in around 10 minutes. So you do need to be alert and watch while they are on processing and be prepared to rinse when done.
- Only use 10 Vol developer if you have really lifted well and you are confident that there is minimal yellow left.
- Otherwise, use with 20 Vol developer for best results. You will get better release of yellow pigments and better toning that way.
- Apply on towel dried hair. It can be still wet. Just make sure there is no excess moisture.
- Mix 1 part of your chosen Ugly Duckling toner with 2 parts developer.
- Section the hair starting from the back, using fine sections.
- Work fast because the toner works fast and you want to give your whole head an even processing time.
- Leave out the last inch nearest the roots when you apply, and return to this section at the end. Hair processes faster on the root area due to the heat of the scalp.
- As you apply, you will see the hair turn grey with a purple or grey or blue hue.
- This is normal, it shows that the toner is doing its job of neutralizing yellow and brassiness.
- Normally 10-15 minutes is enough.
- Once again, remember to watch the roots in particular carefully - do not over-process there.
WHICH UGLY DUCKLING TONER?
- Ugly Duckling has 2 types of toners: Intense Toners and No-lift toners.
- If this is a first time toning and your hair is pretty brassy, we recommend the Intense Toners as they contain extra "booster" which releases any remaining yellow from your brassy hair.
- If it is a repeat application or you are really confident that there is minimal yellow left, use the No-Lift Toners
- Also, if you have low lights that you wish to keep, use the No-Lift Toners.
OTHER COLORS YOU CAN USE FOR TONING:
- In addition the following colors also give excellent results and very unique color effects when used after pre-lightening:
- The Blue Based Blonde Colors, especially Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde 10.1b and Very Light Cold Ash Blonde 9.1b
- The Greys: Silver Grey, Smoky Blue Grey and Metallic Grey
- These colors are better processed for the full 30 minutes, you will get better color results that way.
3 - RINSE WITH PURPLE SHAMPOO & MASK
- Rinse hair with Purple Shampoo, massaging thoroughly for 5 minutes as you do.
- Then apply Purple Mask.
- Leave the mask in the hair for 10 minutes.
- Ugly Duckling's Purple Shampoo and Mask contain very intense pigments.
- These will neutralize any remaining yellow and take your hair to ultra white blonde.
- They are also low pH and will help to close the hair cuticle after the lightening and toning process.
- Only use Purple Shampoo and Mask after toners, not after regular colors.
WATCH THIS VIDEO TO SEE BLEACHING AND TONING TO ULTRA WHITE BLONDE:
Products Used in Video:
- Brilliant Blonde Lightener
- Pearl Blonde Toner 10V
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT TONING
Q. Can I Use Toner Without Developer?
A. No You Can't.
- All Ugly Duckling toners work best with developer. The reason is that they have been formulated for extra vibrancy and for that we need to penetrate into the hair cuticle, in order to release any remaining yellow pigments and then recolor the hair blonde from inside. That is the best way to get a good hair toning result which will last.
Q. Can I Use Toner with a No-Lift Developer?
A. We would recommend that you use 10 Vol even if you don't want to lift.
- 10 Vol developer is a minimum recommended strength to open the hair cuticle. We don't recommend that you use anything weaker.
- If you have low lights that you don't want to get lifted, use our no-lift toners with 10 Vol developer for a short processing time and you should be OK.
Q. Can't I just use any toners? Aren't they all the same?
A. There are a lot of good products out there, but Ugly Duckling Toners Are Rather Unique.
- Our toners are very very fast acting and contain a lot of pigments.
- They have been designed to work really fast, on wet hair if necessary.
- The intense toners contain an extra "booster: which will get rid of any remaining yellow.
- The no-lift toners are very very pigmented indeed.
- The blue based ash colors and grey all have very unique color results.
Q. Do you apply toners on wet or dry hair?
A. You can apply Ugly Duckling toners to wet or dry hair
- If you are pre-bleaching, then rinse and towel dry after bleaching to get rid of excess moisture.
- Then go ahead and apply your toner and developer mix.
- If you are not pre-bleaching, we would suggest you apply on dry, unwashed hair.
Q. How often do you need to apply toner?
A. All hair color fades, so very probably your toned hair will also fade and require re-toning every 6 weeks or so
- By this time hair will have a new regrowth which will require fixing also
- Be careful at this stage to lift the regrowth properly to create a consistent color level.
- If the lengths were done properly the previous time, they will most probably require only a few minutes of toning
- The regrowth on the other hand may require lifting.
Q. Can't I just use your Purple Shampoo and Mask to tone?
A. You will get better results if you tone first, then use Purple Shampoo and Mask to maintain
- It is true that you can just use purple shampoo and purple mask to tone
- We do have an excellent purple shampoo and mask of our own. It contains intense purple pigments which do neutralize yellow in blonde hair.
- However, These products are best used as finishing/maintaining products after the main toning is done using a proper toner and developer.
Q. Can I mix a toner with a regular color?
A. Yes you can do that. All Ugly Duckling colors are inter-mixable.
- One common mix that stylists use is to mix the silver blonde toner with the pearl blonde toner.
- Another is to mix any of the colors above with Clear to bump up the color by one level.
Q. Do hair toners damage the hair?
A. Not if you use them correctly.
- Women who have long hair should pay attention to the fact that their lengths are going to get repeated toning applications.
- We always suggest a differential approach.
- Lift up and deal with the dark areas (eg the regrowth area) that needs heavy lifting. Do this really well once.
- But give only a very few minutes of toning to the lengths or areas that need less toning.
- You will avoid damaging the hair in this way.
"I had my hair stylist get the pearl blonde 100.21 (100V) and try it on my hair. I was so impressed with it that I won't ever use anything else. My hair was the color I wanted and it was so soft." - Facebook Review)  => Array ( [id_cms] => 59 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 11 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => The Definitive Guide to Getting Grey Hair [meta_description] => Creating Grey Hair as a Professional | 8 Things You Need to Know to Create Grey Hair Looks in Your Salon | Recipe & Video Tutorial [meta_keywords] => Silver Grey,Smoky Blue Grey,Metallic Grey,Ash Grey Additive,Ash Blue Additive [content] =>
Grey Hair is not the Easiest Color to Create in Your Salon. In this blog post, we show you the 8 things you need to know to achieve these colors in your salon!
Grey Hair by Brittany Pomije
Pre-lightening with Brilliant Blonde, and Pearl Blonde Toner.
- Grey isn't the easiest color to create or to maintain, but it's really pretty and fun.
- As a hairdresser, it will set you apart if you can successfully create grey looks for your clients.
- Read below for details on how exactly to create these looks, how to apply and process grey hair color as well as how to maintain it.
- Also, we talk about grey hair for older clients and for men
- Also fun facts: Did you know that the last time grey was in was in the late 18th Century? Check out the portrait of Marie Antoinette at the bottom of this blog to see how it looked!
Silver Grey. Hair by Elona Taki
Metallic Grey by SarahMaria
Smoky Blue Grey by Brittney Perez
1. How Do I Create These Grey Looks?
- For grey, you need to pre-lighten hair very consistently all the way to level 10.
- Then choose your color, from the colors below (we have 3 greys, plus you can use the pearl blonde toner also)
- Mix with 20 Vol in the ratio of 1 part color to 1 part developer and apply.
- Process for 30 minutes
- Note that the grey colors are not toners - they do need to be processed/developed for the full 30 minutes.
Smoky Blue Grey
2. Tips for Applying Grey Hair Color
Greys typically are less long lasting than other colors. To get the maximum intensity and lastingness, we recommend that you pay great attention to proper application:
- Apply plenty of product so that the hair is correctly saturated.
- After applying with a dye brush, rub more product in using fingers with gloves.
- Consider double saturation (second product application with a fresh mix using a dye brush 10 minutes after the first application)
- Develop them a full 30 minutes. Add 10 minutes extra for greater vividness.
3. How Do I Maintain My Grey Looks?
- Grey hair is a fairly fragile color. But if you follow the steps below you should get a few weeks of very pretty grey hair
- Try and wash it not too often...use a dry shampoo for example.
- When washing, use tepid or cool water if at all possible, as heat will make the color run out faster
- When using shampoo, try and make sure it is sulfate free and acidic (low PH)
- Ugly Duckling grey hair colors do fade "true"...in the sense that when the colors start to fade, the color will still look pretty.
4. How About Darker Grey Hair Colors?
- Use one of the 2 grey additives below.
- The way to use these additives is to squeeze in just a little with your regular color.
- The result will be to turn whatever color you are applying more grey, more ashy.
- These grey additives will make the hair color more ashy and neutralize brassiness.
- They are best used on dark hair to brown hair (level 1 to level 5).
- When mixing in, use about one inch of the Additive for 1 tube of a regular color.
5. How About Mixing Ugly Duckling Grey Hair Colors?
- You absolutely can do that. Check out these pictures by Paula Sturdevant, mixing Ugly Duckling Metallic Grey and Silver Grey.
6. Can Men Go Grey?
- They certainly can..check out this look below. Hair by Ashley Betancourt.
7. Can Old People Go Grey?
- What a question! These days hairdressers and their clients are having great fun...coloring grey hair...grey. It looks awesome!
Silver Grey Hair - Hair by Brittney Perez
Smoky Blue Grey Hair. Hair by Bozey Tedstone
8. Fun Fact About Grey Hair Color
- The last time grey was in fashion was in.....the late 18th Century!
- Here is a gorgeous portrait of Marie Antoinette, future Queen of France.
- It was painted by Joseph Ducreux so that her future husband (King Louis XVI) could see what she looked like.
- The grey hair worked! He married her after after seeing her in this painting.
Marie Antoinette with Grey Hair. Painting by Joseph Ducreux.
FINALLY, WATCH THIS GREY HAIR TRANSFORMATION. Hair by Elona Taki[link_rewrite] => how-to-use-ugly-duckling-grey-colors [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => ) ) 1
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