Do you want to get your client's hair to ultra white blonde?
All the above images show hair colored using Ugly Duckling hair color and techniques.
You can TOTALLY achieve ultra white blonde hair as good or better than these looks. And contrary to what you sometimes hear, it is not a "process".
If you follow the correct techniques, it should be possible to take your client's hair there in just one sitting.
STEP 1: Pre-lighten the hair to level 10.
Use a quality lightener which can lift safely and effectively. Ugly Duckling recommends that you use Brilliant Blonde lightener, as it has been developed specifically for dark bases and can lift quickly while maintaining hair integrity. It is available in tub form as well as sachet.
Mix Brilliant Blonde lightener with 20 or 30 Vol developer depending on the lift required.
The recommended mix is 1 part lightener to 2 parts developer.
It is important that the mix is fairly runny as this helps you get good product saturation on the hair.
Take fine sections and start from the back if you are looking to do a full head lightening.
Keep processing until you lift to level 10. If the hair has not got there in 30 minutes, rinse and re-make a fresh batch and re-apply. You can use Olaplex or any other quality bond protecting product if you wish.
The above image shows what your hair should look like when it reaches level 10.
STEP 2: Use Any of Ugly Duckling's Toners or Blonding Colors
Popular toners and colors used include the following:
Apply any of the following colors, or a combination of them onto a pre-lightened base of level 10.
Use 10 Vol developer if you have lightened enough, and 20 Vol developer if you think you want to whiten it some more.
The mix ratio:
- Toners: 1 part color to 2 parts developer
- Other colors: 1 part color to 1 part develeloper
Watch carefully and process for as long as necessary until the desired color appears.
STEP 3: Use Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo and Mask to finish
They can also be used to maintain your new Ultra White Blonde look.[link_rewrite] => how-to-get-your-hair-to-ultra-white-blonde )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 38 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 1 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How To Achieve Perfect Ash Blonde Hair [meta_description] => How To Get Ash Blonde Hair [meta_keywords] => Ash Blonde ,hair color,Ash Blonde From Yellow,How to get ash blonde hair [content] =>
Looking to achieve the Perfect Ash Blonde Hair Color In Your Salon?
You can ABSOLUTELY get the results above if you follow the steps detailed below!
If you follow our techniques correctly, you will be able to give your clients the perfect ash blonde hair color time after time.
You will be able to achieve the above hair color result, no matter how brown, orange or brassy your client's hair is today!
So here are the steps you need to take to achieve the correct ash blonde hair color result no matter what color your client's hair is when she comes in to your salon.
Step 1: Apply Brilliant Blonde and Developer to the Regrowth Areas.
Your first objective in this case should be to lift the client's regrowth area, from a level 7 to the same level as the rest of her hair.
For this, mix Brilliant Blonde lightener and 20 Vol. or 30 Vol. developer and apply. (In this example, we used 20 Vol developer).
Applying Lightener to Lift the Regrowth Area to Level 9/10
NB If your lengths are not at level 10, you need to apply the lightener mix on the lengths also.
If you are serious about getting your client to a true ash blonde as in the result photos above, you need to take your client's hair to a level 9/10. You need to get all the unwanted pigments out of the hair. So, do not rinse off lightener until you get to level 9/10.
The Hair Coloring Levels - Level 9/10 is what you need to aim for!
Step 2: Once applied on regrowth, apply also on ends if they are not at level 10.
Remember, whether you are applying on regrowth areas or pre-colored areas, after applying lightener, you must keep checking it.
Only rinse out when you get the right hair color level, which is level 9/10. The most common mistake stylists make is to wash out the hair too soon.
You must leave the product in until you get to a level 9/10. If after 30 minutes you are still not there, you will need to rinse and do a fresh application with a fresh mix.
Step 3: Rinse and Shampoo
Rinse & Shampoo - Hair Color Now at Level 10
Step 4: Tone with The Right Choice of Toner.
Now that you have minimal quantities of yellow in your hair and it is very very light blonde, you are ready to start toning the hair to get that very ash blonde hair color result that your customer is looking for.
Ugly Duckling has a range of ash colors and toners which are significantly colder and ashier than the majority of toners on the market.
But you do need to be careful because they do contain a lot of pigment and they lift and color significantly faster than most. So the rule after application, is watch carefully and wash as soon as you achieve the right color. As you apply, you will see the product start to change color and turn blue. Don't worry, the blue pigments are there to fight the yellow and get you to a true ash color. When you rinse, the blue will go away.
- Use Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100.21.
- Mix with a 10 or 20 Vol. developer.
- Keep the mix at 1 part toner to 2 parts developer. This will help you spread the product fast, saturate evenly and get all the hair a relatively equal coverage.
- You can apply the product onto wet hair, but you must towel dry first to get rid of excessive moisture.
- Watch carefully and rinse when the hair has turned the color you want. Normally, around 10 -15 minutes of toning is enough.
Apply Toner Mix to Lengths and Root Area
The root area will lift the fastest because of the heat of the scalp. So apply the toner mix to the mid-lengths first and return and do the root area last.
Work fast because the toner works fast and you must try and give all your hair the same amount of development time.
Step 5: Rinse Well. Now Apply a Purple Toning Shampoo or a Purple Masque After Toning
Ugly Duckling Purple Shampoo and Masque - Rub in well for Best results
The purple pigments will lock in to the hair and enhance the white, cold, ashy look that you are aiming at for your client.
When applying, remember to rub in the purple shampoo. This will enhance the action of the purple pigments.
If you are using a purple masque, rub in and then clip up the hair and leave for 10 minutes. This will allow conditioning and treatment elements to penetrate better into the hair cuticle.
A Perfect Ash Blonde Hair Result
What is the Best Way of Maintaining the Ash Blonde Look?
This will keep hair looking cold and ashy and "salon-fresh". Use of these products should help the color last at least 3 -4 weeks.
Your client can use the purple shampoo on a daily basis and she can use purple masque for a weekend treatment.
Products Used in This Tutorial.
Brilliant Blonde Lightener $29.95
20 Vol Developer $16.95
Purple Shampoo $ 40.00
Purple Masque $45.00
Shipping is free anywhere in the US.
Are There Other Toners I Can Use?
Ugly Duckling has a range of toners and the Intense Pearl Blonde look, Intense Silver Blonde look is only one of many.
- For a more silver blonde result, use Intense Silver Blonde 100.20
- If you have already toned your hair before and are looking to refresh only, use Extra Light Cool Blonde 10.2
- For a less dramatic, more regular ash look, use either 10.1, 9.1 or 8.1.
- For an extra cold blue based ash look, use 10.1B, 9.1B or 8.1B.
Hair Color by Brittney Perez.[link_rewrite] => how-to-achieve-perfect-ash-blonde-hair )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 43 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 2 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => 10 Things You Need to Know When Bleaching Hair [meta_description] => Step By Step Instructions to Lightening Your Hair With Bleach | How to Bleach Your Hair [meta_keywords] => bleach,hair lightener [content] =>
1. What do I Need in order to Bleach Hair Correctly?
- Bleach powder.
- Brush For Applying Hair, Clips for Sectioning, Mixing Bowl
2. Which Developer Should I Use When Bleaching?
Developer choice is directly related to how much lift you are looking for.
- Use 10 Vol for gentle color cleansing
- Use 20 Vol for color removal and lifts of 1-2 levels.
- Use 30 Vol for significant lifting (more than 3 levels of lift).
- Use 40 Vol only if you are working on very strong thick Asian hair. Or unless you are using Olaplex, which bumps down the strength of any developer you use
3. What is the Correct Mix Ratio of Bleach to Developer?
With Ugly Duckling Brilliant Blonde, we recommend a mix of 1 part Bleach to 2 parts developer.
It is important that the mix is runny enough so that application is quick and easy.
The advantages of having a fairly liquidy mix include:
It makes it easier to cover all the hair evenly, thus avoiding patchy results.
It will allow you to work fast, and give every part of your client's hair the same processing time.
- You have longer to work before the mixture turns dry. It is important to remember that the bleach mixture stops working as soon as it becomes dry.
If you are looking to do a bayalage (free painting of highlights) you may opt to use less developer, so as to have a thicker mixture.
Mix the bleach until it forms a smooth consistency (similar to gravy). Do this in a plastic mixing bowl. Add the developer to the powder bleach a little at a time, stirring as you do.
Bleach Mixture, Not too Runny, Not Too Thick.
4. How Should I Apply the Bleach Mixture?
- Section the hair into 4 large sections with sectioning clips.
- Then unclip one section and create mini half-inch sections using your tail comb.
- Start applying bleach in the back of the head where the hair is usually darkest and thickest, working your way round to the front sections, in half-inch sections.
- Make sure that you saturate the hair properly with the product mixture. You need to literally smother the hair with bleach.
- Apply bleach quickly as you don’t want the mixture to dry out before it is applied.
- Always keep at least half an inch away from the scalp. If you are looking to lift all the way from the root, return to the last half inch (nearest to the root) after having applied everywhere else. The part nearest the scalp will process the fastest because it is getting heat from the scalp.
- Try and avoid actually touching the scalp unless your bleach mix is a fairly mild one.
Section the hair, then start applying the bleach from the back.
5. How Long should I let the Bleach Mixture Develop?
- You need to watch the hair carefully and rinse when you have obtained the right color result.
- The development time can vary from 15 minutes to 30 minutes, depending on the starting hair color level, texture, and thickness.
- You can use indirect heat to speed up the process but you need to keep watching and monitoring how it is lifting.
- After 15 minutes of processing, you should check the progress. At this stage you can add some more mixture if necessary. Wash off when the hair reaches the desired level.
- If you are looking to go very blonde, it is important that you do not wash off too early. You need to get rid of all the orange pigments and also most of the yellow pigments before you can rinse.
- See the image below. Aim for at least a level 9 if you are trying to get blonde hair.
- As soon as you get to your target level, rinse using an acidic shampoo. This will close the hair cuticle after the bleaching process.
Hair Color At Level 10 After Bleaching
6. What is a Bleach Bath? When do I use that?
A Bleach bath is a mix of Bleach, developer, shampoo and water (generally, equal parts) which is applied using either a brush or fingers using gloves at the back bar. It is a relatively gentle treatment because of the dilution with water and shampoo. It allows stylists to go all the way to the scalp without risking too many scalp irritations.
You should consider doing a bleach bath in the following situations:
- When the client has short hair (a bleach bath is often used on men)
- For stripping excess color build up, prior to recoloring
- For changing reflect (eg from warm to cold)
NB If your client has box-colored your hair all the way down to dark brown or black, it is very unlikely that a bleach bath will be sufficient, You will need to apply a mix of bleach and 20 Vol developer in order to get rid of this!
7. Can I add a blue or purple shampoo or masque to the bleach and developer?
Yes you can do that if you are looking for a cold color result such as ash blonde after bleaching. As the hair cuticle is open during the bleaching process, application of purple pigments will help.
8. Can I apply Olaplex, Argan Oil or other treatments into the Bleach Mix?
Yes you can do that. For the same reason as above, treatments applied during the bleaching process are rather effective. Be aware that some products (such as Olaplex) do slow down the bleaching process, and you may need to bump up the developer by 1 level if you choose to use such a treatment.
8. What Color Should I Apply After Bleaching?
You will need to apply color after bleaching in order to get a vivid, 3 dimensional color result. Toners are often used after bleaching. Ugly Duckling's most popular toners are 100.21 (Intense Pearl Blonde), 100.20 (Intense Silver Blonde) and 10.2 (Extra Light Cool Blonde). These toners have been developed to be applied straight on damp towel-dried hair - no need to blow dry after bleaching.
9. How Should I Treat The Hair After Bleaching and Toning?
Rinse with water, then wash with a good quality acidic shampoo. Then use a high quality acidic masque or SOS treatment to return the hair to its natural condition.
10. Any other Do's and Don'ts Concerning Hair Bleaching that I should Know About?
- Once again, try and avoid actually placing the bleach mixture on the scalp.
- Avoid using at all if your client has a sensitive, itchy or irritated scalp.
- Advise clients not to shampoo their hair for 2 days prior to bleaching. Their scalp will be better protected that way.
- Don't use bleach if your client's hair has previously been treated with a hair straightener or relaxer.
- Do not apply on recently permed hair.
- Avoid contact with eyes at all time.
BRILLIANT BLONDE - DESIGNED FOR DARK BASES, 8+ LEVELS LIFT.
Brilliant Blonde has been designed for dark bases and can lift up to 8 levels safely and effectively. It is blue and dust-free. It produces a creamy, easy to apply mix and gives a very uniform consistent lift. To learn more, please visit our Brilliant Blonde product page.
All examples on this page from Ashley Betancourt.[link_rewrite] => how-to-bleach-hair )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 63 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 3 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => Recipe: How to Get an Ultra White Blonde Look [meta_description] => Ultra White | Pearl Blonde | Ash Blonde | Silver Blonde [meta_keywords] => intense pearl blonde toner,intense Silver Blonde Toner [content] =>
1. Lift hair to Level 10 using Brilliant Blonde Lightener.
The image below shows what level 10 looks like. You need to try and get rid of as much of the yellowness as possible.
2. Rinse and Apply Your Selected Ugly Duckling Toner
Ugly Duckling Toners have been formulated to get rid of yellow and take the hair to Ultra White Blonde. For best results, make the mix fairly runny (1 part color to 2 parts developer). This will allow you to get good product saturation, work fast and evenly, consistently.
You can use either 10 or 20 Vol developer.
Processing should take no more than 15 minutes if teh hair has been pre-lightened correctly.
3. Use Purple Shampoo and Mask to Finish
Using Purple Shampoo and Mask will help close the hair cuticle, condition and tone at the same time. The purple pigments in these products will enhance your ultra white blonde look.[link_rewrite] => recipe-how-to-get-an-ultra-white-blonde-look )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 62 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 4 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How To Use Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo and Mask [meta_description] => [meta_keywords] => [content] =>
Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo & Mask
What is Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo?
Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo is a shampoo with intense purple pigments which fight yellowness in blonde and highlighted hair. Because of its low pH formula, it can be applied in the salon straight after a color or a bleaching. It can also be used as a regular color maintenance product.
Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo's low pH formula closes the hair cuticle after coloring or bleaching and thus helps improve hair condition as well as prolong the color result.
The formula is also sulfate free and gluten free.
How do I use it?
Apply to wet hair and massage very thoroughly. Make sure every part of the hair has been thoroughly saturated with the shampoo. Leave on for a few minutes and rinse out thoroughly.
What is Brilliant Blonde Purple Mask?
Brilliant Blonde Purple Mask is an intensive salon treatment which contains intense purple pigments to condition and tone hair at the same time. Thanks to an ultra low pH formula, it can be applied in the salon straight after a color or bleaching. It can also be used as a regular color maintenance product.
The formula is also sulfate free and gluten free.
How do I use it?
Apply using a dye brush or fingers to clean, towel-dried hair. Apply on ends first, as this is where the greatest conditioning is typically needed. Leave under a plastic cap or towel and apply gentleheat. Leave on for 10 minutes. Then rinse.
What Color Must my Hair be Before I use These Products?
For both products, you must pre-lighten to level 9 or 10 for best toning results.
Will These products Get My Hair to Ultra White Blonde?
If your hair is not currently ultra white blonde and you want to get it there, purple shampoo and mask will not do the job on its own.
You should follow these 3 steps:
1. Pre-lift with Brilliant Blonde lightener or any other quality lightener.
2. Use any one of Ugly Duckling's toners to tone the hair
3. Then apply Purple Shampoo and Mask.
How Often Can I use Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo and Mask?
Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo and Mask is low pH and also sulfate free. So these are basically very gentle products and can be used as often as you want.
Normally, a typical haircare regime with Purple Shampoo and Mask would be a daily shampooing with Purple Shampoo and a weekly application of Purple Mask.
You can use both products one after the other unless your hair is already very very light and very very white, in which case it would be better to alternate to avoid excessive purple pigment build-up.[link_rewrite] => using-brilliant-blonde-purple-shampoo-and-mask )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 60 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 5 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => What Happens If You Put Too Much Developer Into Your Dye? [meta_description] => Hair Color Mix Ratios | Adding the Correct Amount of Developer [meta_keywords] => Developer,Hair Color,Mix ratio [content] =>
What is the Right Mix Ratio for Ugly Duckling Color?
- The recommended mix ratio for Ugly Duckling color is 1 part color to 1 part developer for most of our colors.
- The recommended mix ratio for Ugly Duckling Toners (Intense Pearl Blonde, Intense Silver Blonde) is 1 part color to 2 parts developer.
- The recommended mix For Ugly Ducking High Lift Colors (anything beginning with the number 100) is 1 part color to 2 parts developer.
- The recommended mix for Ugly Duckling Bleach (Brilliant Blonde), is 1 part Brilliant Blonde to 2 parts color.
If your mix is too dry, you won't be able to saturate the hair properly with product and you may also get uneven and patchy color results.
If your mix is too wet, your color result may not be sufficiently rich or long lasting.
Ugly Duckling recommends that if you are new to coloring, try to get the mix as correct as possible. If you are a salon owner with staff who are new to coloring, make sure they use weighing scales to get the mixes right.
Later, as you get more experience, you can try out different mixes. Expert colorists do indeed vary the mix according to their personal preferences and according to the situation.
Why Do I Need to Get The Mix Right?
The Ugly Duckling tube contains the cream color. It also contains a highly alkali environment which allows color oxydation to occur.
The Ugly Duckling developer contains the hydrogen peroxide. This is what lightens the natural hair color and takes out the melanin naturally occurring in the hair.
Both products are necessary in order for the color process to take place. And in the right proportions.
What Happens If I Put Too Much Developer In The Dye?
You will end up lightening the hair, but not depositing enough color. The hair color result may be lighter as a result but it will also be thinner, flatter and more brassy. Also, it will tend to wash out or fade out very quickly. Think of what children's hair looks like after a summer vacation by the sea and you will get the general idea!
What Happens If I Put Too Little Developer in The Dye?
You will not be lifting out enough of the hair's natural melanin. This will mean you may end up with darker hair than you wished for. Also, when the mix is dry product coverage tends to be uneven and the color result may end up patchy.
Are There Any Cases Where it is a Good Idea to Deliberately Put in Extra Developer?
- Putting in more developer will give you a runnier solution.
- This is helpful when you want to saturate the hair (cover the hair with product) really really well and evenly. You will get a more even color result and you will tend to avoid patches.This is particularly important in full head applications.
- A runnier solution will allow you to work fast. This may be an important factor when your client's hair is long and you want to give all the hair the same processing time roots to ends.
- Very often, expert colorists tend to go with a runnier solution for the above reasons. Many of the artists who produce video tutorials for Ugly Duckling do use fairly runny mixes.
- Even when going with a runnier solution, aim at a maximum mix of 1:1.5 for Ugly Duckling Color and 1:2.5 mix for Ugly Duckling Lightener (Brilliant Blonde). Any more and you may be compromising color results.
Are There Any Cases Where it is A Good Idea to Deliberately Put in Too Little Developer?
- It will help if you want to do a balayage technique (free painting with dye brush) and you want to position the color accurately and not have any product dripping off the brush.
- Balayage artists tend to work with thicker color mixes. This helps avoid putting on too much product in one go and thus avoid visible lines of demarcation.
- It will also help if you are looking to do grey hair coverage and your client has difficult to cover grey hair. You will get a darker color result, but you will be able to improve grey hair coverage.
- Even when going for a less runny solution, aim at a minimum mix of 1:0.8 for Ugly Duckling Color and 1:1.5 mix for Ugly Duckling Lightener (Brilliant Blonde).
Should you Ever Put Hair Conditioner or Shampoo or Water Into Your Dye Mix?
- Putting in hair conditioner is the same thing as diluting the hair color mix. You can do this if you want to make the hair more pastel. In effect, you will be diluting the hair color. Adding water will achieve the same result.
- It can be helpful to add shampoo when you want to do a bleach bath for the hair at the back bar. This is a relatively gentle bleach treatment, consisting of 1 part bleach, 1 part developer, 1 part shampoo and 1 part water. Mix together and leave on your client's hair for a quick color cleansing operation.
For more information on getting your hair color application right, please read "How To Apply Dye On Hair"
For more information on getting your bleach application right, please read "How To Bleach Hair"
For more information on Ugly Duckling products, please visit our Shop-Now page.[link_rewrite] => what-happens-if-you-put-too-much-developer-in-your-dye )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 53 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 6 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => Argan Oil And Hair Color - The Ultimate Guide [meta_description] => Treatment Hair Color with Argan Oil [meta_keywords] => Hair Color,Argan Oil [content] =>
Why Use Argan Oil For Hair Color?
Argan Oil, sometimes known as Moroccan Oil, is a product of the Moroccan Argan tree. It has been called “Liquid Gold” by the haircare industry, because its benefits are truly amazing.
It is easily absorbed by the hair cuticles, nourishing dry hair and making hair shine with health and radiance.
It contains vitamin E and fatty acids and it helps to smooth even the frizziest of hair and it restores bounce, giving an immediate and dramatic impact on the hair.
Hair coloring using oxidative dyes, if done incorrectly, can impose stress on your hair.
But when Argan Oil is used in the coloring process, it penetrates the hair at the cortex level, giving profound benefits during and after the hair color process.
Benefits of Argan Oil When Coloring
1. Shinier Hair
The oil helps to close the hair cuticles after coloring. This makes the hair shaft shinier. After blow dry and brushing, the effect is even more pronounced.
2. Softer Hair
The Argan Oil also penetrates into the cortex during the coloring process. This makes the hair quality softer after the coloring.
3. Repairs Brittle Hair
Because the Argan Oil enters into the cortex during the coloring process, it "plumps" the hair from inside and makes the hair fibre, making it less brittle in the process. The Argan Oil helps repair the brittle parts, whether they occur on the ends, in the case of long hair, or mid-lengths, as is sometimes the case with permed or relaxed hair.
4. Makes Ends Stronger, Particularly on Long Hair
Women are growing their hair longer and longer these days. The end of the hair is the oldest part of the hair and as a result tends to be particularly thin and worn. A visit to the stylist and a regular trim at the ends s generally what women do about this. But Argan Oil-based color does act here and does the plumping here, making a visible difference. By using Ugly Duckling color, you can grow your hair longer and still keep the ends in good condition.
5. More Even Color Deposit
Because the hair shaft has been strengthened from the inside, the whole process of coloring works better. The natural pigments can be lightened at a more even rate, and re-pigmentation takes place in a more even way. Result: a more consistent, regular color, more uniform from roots to ends.
6. More Vibrant Color
Because the hair is in better condition, and because the color molecules are more evenly deposited, women who use Ugly Duckling Color on thair hair get a much more vibrant hair color result. Whether it is a rich brown, or an intense violet, or a true cold ash, the result is a true color that s richer, shinier and more vibrant.
To view the choice of hair color available with Argan oil, please visit our Shop Now Page.
Mixing Argan Oil into Color Applications
If you are looking for extra conditioning, you can mix Argan Oil into the hair color and chemical straightening or perming applications. This will give a spectacular boost in the degree of conditioning that you are giving your customer.
This is particularly recommended for bleach and perm applications.
We suggest adding around 15 ml, or 1 tablespoon of Argan oil into the mix of 1 Ugly Duckling hair color tube (3.5 oz) and 200 ml of developer (7 oz)[link_rewrite] => the-ultimate-guide-to-argan-oil-and-hair-color )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 55 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 7 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How to Get 5 Levels of Lift Without Using Bleach [meta_description] => Highlift Hair Color | Blonde | Ash Blonde| Deep Ash Blonde | Silver Blonde | Golden Blonde |100.11 [meta_keywords] => highlift,highlight,blonde,ash blonde,no bleach [content] =>
Before - Dark Regrowth
After - Regrowth Lifted, Hair Toned
High Lift Colors - No Bleach Needed
If you are looking to get lift and you want to avoid using bleach, you should consider Ugly Duckling’s High Lift Series.
These colors give up to 5 levels of lift without using bleach. They can be used to lighten regrowth areas and also to tone the hair and give it the right blonde reflect.
How Ugly Duckling High Lift Color Works
The Ugly Duckling High Lift colors are specially formulated colors which lift and color in one step. They can lift the hair colors up to 5 levels, depending on hair type and texture.
So if your customer’s hair is a level 3, you can expect to get her up to a level 8. If she is a level 4, you can expect to get her up to a level 9. And if she is a level 5, you can get her up to a level 10.
Which High Lift Color Should I use?
For a regular blonde look, use High Lift Blonde 100.
For a more natural blonde, use High Lift Golden Blonde 100.30.
How Should I Use Them?
You need to mix 1 part color to 2 parts developer.
Use either 30 Vol or 40 Vol developer depending on how much lift you require. Don’t be afraid of using 40 Vol because the color formulation is very gentle and it is designed to work well with 40 Vol.
If you have a regrowth area which is hair color level 6 and above, you can first apply a mix to your regrowth area. Wait 20 minutes. Then apply to the rest of the hair.
The total development time is longer than for regular colors: 45 minutes without heat and 35 with heat. Using indirect heat will help you to boost the degree of lift that you will get from the color.
1. Before: Regrowth of Level 6, Mid-Lengths Blonde But Washed Out.
2. Mix 100.11 with 30 Vol.
3. Apply to Root Area First to Lift It. Then Apply To Hair Shaft in the Final 20 Minutes.
4. The Final result. Consistent Deep Ash Blonde Result.
How Should I Apply High Lift Colors?
You can use Ugly Duckling's High Lift colors for a full head application.
When doing a full head application, never apply hair color directly on the scalp, as this may provoke irritations. Also, be aware that the the hair closest to the scalp gets the most heat from the scalp and has a tendency to “over-develop”.
We therefore suggest that when you do a full head application, you first color only 1 inch away from the scalp. Return to near the root area only after you have finished applying onto the mid lengths and ends. Avoid the actual scalp at all times because this is a high lift product.
Watch this root area closely, and rinse when it has processed to the required color result.
If you would like to learn more about the product used in this tutorial, please go to High Lift Deep Ash Blonde 100.11.
Color Tutorial by Elona Taki.[link_rewrite] => how-to-get-5-levels-of-lift-without-using-bleach )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 46 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 8 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How To Get Rid of Brassy Hair [meta_description] => Getting Rid of Those Dreadful Orange Tones [meta_keywords] => Color Neutralization | Brassiness | Orange Hair,yellow hair [content] =>
What is Brassy Hair and How Can I Get Rid of It?
Brassy hair is hair that looks yellowish or orange.
Human hair carries a lot of secondary pigments (often referred to as a natural undercoat) that make it look yellow, yellowish orange or even orange.
This brassiness is particularly noticeable on hair that has been lightened or colored previously. As the colors which the stylist have put in wash out over time, the hair begins to look more and more "brassy".
The darker the blonde, the more "brassy" it will look.
In the image below, you can see that the hair at level 7/8 is more brassy than the hair at level 9/10.
Image Supplied by Ugly Duckling Stylist Hon G.
What exactly is causing my client's hair to turn brassy when I bleach or color or lift?
A little bit of color theory:
Hair has a natural undercoat, or secondary pigment, which becomes visible when you lighten it or even if you stay in the sun for very long.
When you lighten hair to a dark brown color, you get a red undercoat or tone.
When you lighten hair to a medium brown color, you get an orange undercoat or tone.
When you light hair to a blonde hair color, you get a yellow undercoat or tone.
This table below illustrates the undercoats which occur at every hair level.
These undercoats often represent a challenge for colorists and their customers as generally speaking these undercoats are not very attractive nor desired by clients.
What Should I Do to Get Rid of Brassy Hair?
STEP 1. Use Lightener & Lift the Hair to Level 9 or 10.
If you have a a client with yellowish, orange hair and you are looking to eliminate all her brassiness, you need to take her all the way up to a level 9, even if the actual result you are aiming for is a 7 or 8.
If you lift it to a level 9 or 10, you will be able to eliminate almost all the undercoats or secondary pigments that cause brassiness.
The images below show hair that has been lifted all the way to a level 10. That is to say, very pale yellow. If you want to get rid of brassiness, you must lift it all the way up to here. At this level, there is virtually no undercoat that you need to worry about.
Very often stylists are reluctant to lift the hair all the way, but if you use a quality lightener (like Brilliant Blonde) along with a quality developer, you will be able to lift the hair level no matter what the starting color.
To learn more about the correct way of applying lightener and lifting, please visit 10 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW WHEN BLEACHING HAIR
Hair Color by Ugly Duckling Stylist Brittney Perez
STEP 2. Tone with a quality toner
Ugly Duckling Toners provide 3 functions which are crucial in getting rid of brassiness and helo you get your client's hair to a very desirable blonde reflect:
- Provide a last step whitening to eliminate much of the remaining natural occurring yellow color pigments.
- Neutralize the remaining brassiness with blue and violet pigments
- Add additional reflects to get your client's hair to the exact shade of blonde that she is looking for.
- Ugly Duckling toners have been designed to act on wet hair, so you just need to towel dry after lightening.
- They typically act very fast, so you need to watch carefully and rinse as soon as they get to the right color. Typically 10-15 minutes is enough.
- Care should be taken when applying on to the root area. This area gets the heat from the scalp and processes the fastest!
- We recommend applying the toner to this area after you have colored the rest of the hair to be safer.
Which Ugly Duckling Toner Should I Use?
For a very white, pearl or icy blonde look: Tone with Ugly Duckling Pearl Blonde Toner 100.21 and 10 Vol Developer.
Hair Toned with Intense Pearl Blonde 100.21
Hair Color by Brittney Perez
For a very white, silver blonde look: Tone with Ugly Duckling Intense Silver Blonde Toner 100.20 and 10 Vol Developer.
Hair Toned with Intense Silver Blonde 100.20
Hair Color by Jessica Mallicoat
For those who have previously lifted very light and are looking for a lighter, re-fresh toning application only: Tone with Ugly Duckling Extra Light Cool Blonde (10.2) with 10 Vol Developer.
Hair Color by Elona Taki
STEP 3. Use Purple Shampoo or Purple Masque
The purple pigments will help neutralize any remaining brassiness and give you a perfect ashy look.
Purple shampoo and masque will also help your client maintain her ashy look in between salon visits.
Ugly Duckling Purple Shampoo and Masque are acidic, meaning low pH. They are therefore very useful for in-salon use as they close the hair cuticle immediately after the lightening and toning process. They are also sulfate-free and help to protect the color for a long time.
What About Very Dark Hair? What Should I do to stop it Pulling Brassy?
Brassiness is not just a problem for blondes.
It can be a real challenge on dark bases, Typically when stylists try and put in highlights, the result is very orange, very brassy. (See below).
This product contains some unique and proprietary pigments which act to counteract the orange on very dark hair.
How To Use Ash Grey Additive or Ash Blue Additive:
- Lift or place blonde highlights in the normal way as you would do. After processing, rinse.
- Now make a mix of Ash Grey Additive and 20 Vol and paste over the brassy hair.
- Develop 30 minutes and rinse.
- If your hair color is 6 or below, it is better to use Ash Grey Additive (it contains green which neutralizes orange)
- If your hair color is 7 or above, it is better to use Ash Blue Additive ( it contains blue which neutralizes yellow)
Before and After Ash Grey Additive. The Ash Grey Additive is placed on the Highlighted Areas and Successfully Neutralizes brassiness.
Hair Color by Elona Taki
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1. Apply hair dye on dry, unwashed hair
All hair dye has been designed to work best on dry, unwashed hair. The oil from your hair will protect the scalp while it is being colored.
All you need to do to prepare the hair for coloring is comb it finely so that you are ready to start sectioning.
2. Assess how many levels you are lifting
You must do a very accurate assessment of every part of your client's hair and determine how many levels you are trying to lift.
You must do this for every part of the hair, for example for the regrowth area as as well as for the ends.
Based on this analysis, you will be able to calculate the developer strength you need and also which part of the hair you need to deal with first.
NB If you are looking to lift any part of your client's hair by more than 3 levels, you will need to use a high lift product or a lightener.
3. Choose the correct strength of developer.
For level on level coloring, use 10 Vol developer.
For 1-2 levels lift, use 20 Vol developer.
For 2-3 levels lift, use 30 Vol developer.
For 3 levels and more, use 40 Vol developer.
If you are toning pre-lightened hair, use 10 Vol if the hair is already very very blonde (level 10). Otherwise, use 20 Vol.
4. Measure the hair dye and developer carefully.
The right mix between hair dye and developer will have a huge impact on the hair color result.
If you put in too little developer, you won’t be opening the hair cuticle enough. If you put in too much developer, you will be lightening the hair but not depositing enough hair dye and the color won’t last.
So always measure your hair dye and developer properly. We recommend using either kitchen scales or a measuring bowl with markers.
For most Ugly Duckling hair color, the correct mix is 1 part hair dye to 1 part developer.
For high lift colors, the correct mix is 1 part hair dye to 2 parts developer.
For toners, the correct mix is 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
5. Section the hair correctly before applying hair dye
Part the hair into 4 big sections. Tie up 3 sections with a clip.
On the remaining unclipped section, start taking ¼ inch mini-sections in order to apply the color with your dye brush. Lift each strand up and apply color from just away from the scalp to the ends. Neat, even sectioning is really really important.
Taking fine sections will help you achieve even color results.
Once you have completed 1 big section in this way, pin up again. Then start on another section and do mini sections on this one in the same way.
Repeat on all sections until you have finished coloring the hair.
6. Use Enough Product.
In order to get the most vibrant color possible, you must use enough product mix and you must saturate the hair properly. The image below shows a section of hair after the product has been applied:
7. Use your fingers to do the coloring a second time
Run through the hair a second time after applying the color, with fingers (wearing gloves). Make a second mix if necessary. By using your fingers you can spread out the color (avoid patches) and deposit more color into the cortex just as the cuticle is opening up.
This is what makes the color really intense and vibrant when you are dyeing hair. If your customer has white hair, you should also cross-check how well you have covered the white hair by re-sectioning the hair and checking that all white hair has been properly covered.
Some areas such as the nape area are particularly resistant and you need to pay particular attention here. Avoid using combs to color or re-color, as you can end up ruining the hair cuticles which have been opened in the coloring process.
8. Respect the processing time
For most colors, teh processing time is 30 minutes.
For toners, rinse off when the correct color appears (around 10-15 minutes is normal).
For high lift colors: up to 40 minutes.
Before rinsing, add a little water to the color and rub at the scalp area. Then rub well around the hairline first, then middle and nape.
This process is known as emulsification. It helps lock in the color into the hair, and gives you really vibrant, long-lasting color results plus hair that feels full and very well conditioned.
10. Shampoo using an acidic (low pH) shampoo, conditioner or mask.
Use an acidic shampoo and conditioner to close the hair cuticle and return the hair to its natural pH level.[link_rewrite] => how-to-apply-dye-on-hair )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 45 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 10 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => Color Cleansing, Color Stripping [meta_description] => How to Remove Excessive Color Build Up, How to Change Reflects [meta_keywords] => color cleansing,Brilliant Blonde,color stripping [content] =>
What is color cleansing?
Color Cleansing generally refers to the very mildest form of color removal. It generally involves the use of bleach with shampoo.
In order to do color cleansing, mix equal parts of bleach, 10 Vol Developer and shampoo and warm water. Massage in at the back bar and leave it to process 20 – 30 minutes, Then rinse. Color cleaning is a relatively light process and can be done to remove some color build-up or for tone correction.
It can be used for removing small amounts of color and for tone correction (going from warm to cold).
What is color stripping?
Color stripping is the term used for a stronger color removal processes. This is required to remove a significant color build up. Here one typically uses Bleach + 30 Vol developer and one normally leaves it on for 20 minutes or longer.
I have already colored my hair very dark. How do I get rid of my hair color?
If you have colored your hair either dark or in a very vibrant reflect you will need to do color stripping. You can use Ugly Duckling Brilliant Blonde with 20 Vol. as a color stripper.
How about if I have used some very bold colors. Can I use bleach to color strip this?
Yes, you can. For more severe build-up, you will need to use a stronger mixture. In this case, use bleach +with 30 Vol and develop for 15-20 minutes.
If you still have not removed the build up after 25 minutes, wash off and repeat.
I have color build up on my mid lengths but my regrowth is virgin hair. What should I do?
In order to get a uniform color result, there are no short cuts: your entire head must be at the same level before you start coloring, otherwise you will get color bars. So you need to take care of your build up first with a color stripping operation specifically on the part with the build up.
In order to avoid visible lines of demarcation, it is recommended to brush through the bleach mix right through the rest of the hair in the final 10 minutes. Then start the color process on the full head.
To discover more about Brilliant Blonde, and how to use it in color stripping and color cleansing operations, please visit our Brilliant Blonde page.[link_rewrite] => color-cleansing-and-color-stripping )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 54 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 11 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => Permanent, demi-permanent hair, semi-permanent color - What's the difference? [meta_description] => The difference between permanent and demi-permanent hair color explained [meta_keywords] => permanent hair color,demi-permanent,semi-permanent [content] =>
What is the Difference Between Permanent and Demi-Permanent hair color?
Permanent hair color and demi-permanent hair color both belong to the class of hair color known as oxidative dyes. These dyes work through a combination of pigments, a developer, (otherwise known as an oxidizer) and an alkali base.
This alkali base is ammonia in the case of permanent hair color and is ethanolamine in the case of demi-permanent hair colors. The alkali’s function is to open up the hair cuticle.
Ammonia is the more effective of the 2 in terms of opening up the hair cuticle but has a stronger smell. Ethanolamine opens up the cuticle a little less, but smells more pleasant.
Both permanent and demi-permanent hair color work in essentially the same way. The hair cuticle opens up when it reacts to the alkali base, the hydrogen peroxide helps to lift out some of the natural pigments, and color molecules are then deposited in their place.
When the hair is washed with an acidic shampoo, the cuticles re-close and the hair returns to its original form.
Is Ugly Duckling Hair Color Permanent or Demi-Permanent?
Isn’t Demi-Permanent Supposed to be Better for the Hair than Permanent Hair Color?
It is true that demi-permanent dyes open up the cuticle a little less than permanent dyes.
However, the flip side is that demi-permanent colors tend to be less vibrant and may cover grey less well.
Also, it is important to note that permanent dyes, when formulated the way that we formulate them at Ugly Duckling deliver Argan Oil and other essential conditioning agents right into the cortex during the coloring process. So, we color and condition at the same time.
What Are the Advantages of Permanent Hair Color?
The advantages of permanent hair color from a stylist’s point of view are the following:
- Great range and choice of color.
- Ability to go much lighter.
- Ability to mix colors to produce creative and innovative effects.
- Ease of Color Matching
- Perfect Grey Hair Coverage.
- Colors that last a long time
What Are the Advantages of Demi-Permanent Hair Color?
The advantages of demi-permanent hair color are:
- Open the cuticle less, deposit color only.
- Decent grey hair coverage.
- Fade-out only after 6-8 weeks.
What About Semi-Permanent Dyes? How do They Work?
Semi-permanent Dyes deposit pigments directly onto the surface of the hair. They can produce vibrant color results, but they typically last less long on the hair as compared to permanent and demi-permanent hair dyes.
What About Hair Bleach? How Does it Work?
Hair Bleach removes color from the hair through the process of oxidation. This processes basically removes all the color pigments from the hair, which is why bleach can turn your hair completely white if left in long enough.
Can Hair Color Provoke an Allergic Reaction?
According to studies, the vast majority (more than 98%) of women do not react to hair dyes.
For some rare women, however, the PPD (or paraphenylenediamine) or its close cousin PTD (or paratoluenediamines) present in hair dyes may provoke an allergic reaction on the scalp.
The exact cause of why some women have allergic reactions while most do not is still not known. However, it is observed that the development of these allergies typically happens after many colorings, sometimes after 10 or 20 years of successful coloring – it is as if the scalp suddenly “flips” from being non-sensitive to being sensitive.
Ugly Duckling always recommends that you do a skin test first on your customer and wait 48 hours before doing a coloration.
To learn more about Ugly Duckling's Hair Color Range, visit here:
Hair Color Mix Ratios | Adding the Correct Amount of DeveloperRead More
The difference between permanent and demi-permanent hair color explainedRead More