STEP ONE : Lift the hair to a True Level 10 Using Lightener
In order to get a real Ash Blonde for your client, your target hair color level needs to be a "very Blonde". So you need to aim for a level 10...in other words, a very pale yellow color result.
The most effective way of doing is by using a really effective lightener which will lift efficiently, and which won't compromise on hair quality.
The Ugly Duckling Brilliant Blonde Powder Lightener (Bleach Powder) has been developed for dark bases and can lift by more than 8 levels. Stylists using it find it one of the most effective at eliminating brassiness.
When applying Brilliant Blonde, make sure the mixture is fairly runny (1+2 developer mix) and make sure you use enough product to really saturate the hair. Avoid the scalp but be fearless. Smother that hair!
Remember, you must achieve a true level 10: a very pale yellow. Otherwise, your ending look will be too warm, too brassy.
Once you have achieved your level 10, rinse. Now you are ready to start toning the hair to get that very ash blonde hair color result that your customer is looking for!
STEP TWO: Use a Really Effective Toner
Ugly Duckling has a wide range of ash colors and toners.
- For a regular ash blonde result, use 10.1 (10A), 9.1 (9A), or 8.1 (8A)
- For a colder result, use 10.1 (10V).
- For a totally white, silver blonde look, use our Silver Blonde Toner 100.20
- For a white pearly blonde look (like Elsa in "Frozen"), use our Pearl Blonde Toner 100.21
Mix any of the above colors with a 10 Vol. developer. You can apply the product onto wet hair if you like.
Watch carefully and rinse when the hair has turned the color you want.
STEP THREE: Use a Purple Toning Shampoo or a Purple Masque While Toning
You can add purple shampoo or purple masque in to your color mix while you are toning. The purple pigments will lock in to the hair and enhance the white, cold, ashy look that you are aiming at for your client.
STEP FOUR: Ask Your Client To Use a Purple Toning Shampoo or a Purple Masque At Home
Suggest to your client to use Purple toning shampoo and masque as a color maintenance product, to keep the hair looking ashy and "salon-fresh" before she see you again.
She can use the purple shampoo on a daily basis and purple masque for a weekend treatment.
Ugly Duckling is launching its Purple Shampoo and Masque range shortly. Watch out for more details!![link_rewrite] => how-to-achieve-perfect-ash-blonde-hair )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 34 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 1 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How Does Ugly Duckling Color Work? [meta_description] => Ugly Duckling Color Technology Explained [meta_keywords] => Ugly Duckling hair color,permanent,oxydative dyes,paraben free,ammonia [content] =>
What does Ugly Duckling Hair Color consist of?
Ugly Duckling hair color is a permanent, or oxidative hair dye with a low ammonia base. Coloring with Ugly Duckling involves 2 ingredients:
Color, which comes in a cream form in a 3.5 oz tube
Cream developer, which comes in a 33 oz bottle.
When you mix the 2 ingredients together and apply it on the hair, you open the hair cuticle, take out the melanin (the hair’s natural coloring) from the cortex and you add in composite color molecules.
And of course, you add in Argan Oil.
How much ammonia actually exists in Ugly Duckling’s low ammonia formulations?
When formulating our colors, we checked out the competition and we benchmarked it to make sure that shade for shade we carried less ammonia, while delivering more vibrant color at the same time.
All Ugly Duckling color formulations are low ammonia formulations, whether they are dark or light.
Just to give an example, Ugly Duckling hair colors on level 1-2 have ammonia concentrations of 1-2% only.
For the Ugly Duckling high lift colors, the ammonia concentration is a little higher, but even so the ammonia concentration is only around 3%. In other words, very very low.
This is why we say we have the lowest ammonia concentrations of any professional hair color.
Is it true that Ugly Duckling hair colors are more vibrant than most?
Yes, it is true. When developing the Ugly Duckling color range, we put in specific pigments to ensure greater vibrancy and long-lastingness. We also developed specific statistical testing methods to test color vibrancy and we benchmarked our colors shade versus shade against not just American, but also European and Japanese competition. And not just on Caucasian, but also Asian and African American hair.
Our hair color technology is called Tru-Color Technology. This technology is your guarantee of accurate and precise coloring results every time. We know how important this is for a hairdresser.
By the way, we test our hair colors continuously against competition and we do sometimes tweak our hair colors to improve their performance. We are the only company that does this on an on-going basis.
So if you feel that there is a color or coverage deficit on any of our colors, we would be most happy to hear from you. Please supply us with details, especially the shade of the competitor which performs better and we will check it out, test it and reformulate it.
Is it true that Ugly Duckling Hair Color is paraben-free?
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[meta_title] => 8 Steps To Achieving a Perfect Hair Dye
[meta_description] => 8 Steps for Achieving a Really Professional Hair Color Result
[meta_keywords] => How to dye hair,how to color hair
Yes, it is true. The vast majority of professional hair colorants from major brands contain parabens.
Ours do not.
Follow these 8 steps and transform the quality of your coloring!
1. Apply hair dye on dry, unwashed hair
Coloring works well on dry hair, so never wash before coloring. The oil from your hair will protect the scalp while it is being colored. All you need to do to prepare the hair for coloring is comb it finely so that you are ready to start sectioning.
2. Measure hair dye and developer carefully.
The right mix between hair dye and developer will have a huge impact on the hair color result.
Always measure your hair dye and developer properly. We recommend using either kitchen scales or a measuring bowl with markers.
If you put in too little developer you won’t be opening the hair cuticle enough.
If you put in too much developer, you will be lightening the hair but not depositing enough hair dye and the color won’t last.
For most Ugly Duckling hair color, the correct mix is 1 part hair dye to 1 part developer.
For high lift colors and for lighteners, use 1 part dye to 2 parts developer.
3. Section the hair correctly before applying hair dye. Apply with a dye brush. Use enough product!
First, part the hair into 4 big sections. Tie up 3 sections with a clip.
Now, on the remaining unclipped section, start taking ¼ inch mini-sections in order to apply the color with your dye brush.
Lift each strand up and apply color from just away from the scalp to the ends. Now take fine sections and apply using a dye brush.
Be fearless...smother that hair! The quality of the end result depends on there being enough product to work on the hair.
Once you have completed 1 big section, pin up again. Then start on another section and do the same on all sections until you have finished coloring the hair.
4. Use your fingers to finish the coloring. Check your work.
Run through the hair a second time after applying the color, with fingers (wearing gloves).
This spreads out the color more evenly everywhere and deposits more color into the cortex just as the cuticle is opening up.
This is what makes the color really intense and vibrant when you are dyeing hair.
If your customer has white hair, you should also cross-check how well you have covered the white hair by re-sectioning the hair and checking that all white hair has been properly covered.
Some areas such as the nape area are particularly resistant and you need to pay particular attention here. Avoid using combs to color or re-color, as you can end up ruining the hair cuticles which have been opened in the coloring process.
5. For Fashion colors, double saturate.
10 minutes after the first application, make a fresh mix (smaller amount).
Now re-apply with a brush and also fingers.
This step is particularly important for achieving vibrant fashion color results (ruby red, blue, green, yellow, orange etc).
6. Respect the processing time.
7 . Emulsify before rinsing
When the development time is over, add a little water to the color and rub at the scalp area.
Then rub well around the hairline first, then middle and nape.
This process is known as emulsification. It helps lock in the color into the hair, and gives you really vibrant, long-lasting color results plus hair that feels full and very well conditioned.
8. Shampoo using a mildly acidic shampoo
Always use a mildy acidic shampoo to close the coloring process and return the hair to its natural pH level.
Ugly Duckling hair color contains Argan oil so the hair is very well conditioned during the coloring process. So you don't need to add in any extra conditioner at the end. Just use a mildly acidic gentle shampoo and you will achieve a beautiful result.[link_rewrite] => how-to-dye-your-hair )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 29 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 3 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => 6 Ways in Which Argan Oil Enhances Hair Quality During Coloring [meta_description] => Argan Oil Miracle | Argan Oil Hair Color [meta_keywords] => hair color,argan oil [content] =>
We all know that there are hair color products out there which leaves the hair in poor condition. Ugly Duckling Hair Color is here to change that perception.
It is one of the core beliefs of the Founder of Ugly Duckling that it is indeed possible to bring to the market an advanced hair color, which achieves professional vibrant color results, but which respects hair quality to the utmost. leaving hair softer and shinier.
So what exactly does the Argan Oil in Ugly Duckling Hair Color achieve?
1. Shinier Hair
Argan Oil conditions the hair shaft during the coloring process, leading to cuticles which are better closed. This makes the hair shaft shinier. After blow dry and brushing, the hair takes takes on an even glossier appearance. Recommended for all women who color their hair frequently.
2. Softer Hair
The Argan Oil acts not only on the cuticle of the hair, it also penetrates into the cortex during the coloring process. This makes the hair quaility softer after the coloring process. Women who try Ugly Duckling Hair Color always notice that the hair is indeed softer after coloring compared to before coloring.
3. Repairs Brittle Hair
Because the Argan Oil enters into the cortex during the coloring process, it "plumps" the hair from inside and makes the hair fibre, making it less brittle in the process. The Argan Oil helps repair the brittle parts, whether they occur on the ends, in the case of long hair, or mid-lengths, as is sometimes the case with permed or relaxed hair.
4. Makes Ends Stronger
The end of the hair is the oldest part of the hair and as a result tends to be particularly thin and worn. A visit to the stylist and a regular trim at the ends s generally what women do about this. But Argan Oil-based color do act here and do the plumping here, making a visible difference. Now you can grow your hair longer and keep the ends in good condition!
5. More Even Color Deposit
Because the hair shaft has been strengthened from the inside, the whole process of coloring works better. The natural pigments can be lightened at a more even rate, and re-pigmentation takes place in a more even way. Result: a more consistent, regular color, more uniform from roots to ends.
6. More Vibrant Color
This is the best part. Because the hair is in better condition, and because the color molecules are more evenly deposited, women who use Ugly Duckling Color on thair hair get a much, much more vibrant Hair Color Result. Whether it is a rich brown, or an intense violet, or an ash blonde, the result is a true color which everyone will sit up and notice! Better Hair Care leads to Better Hair Color.
Ugly Duckling Hair Color contains Argan Oil. It conditions and colors at the same time, leaving the hair soft, shiny and in excellent condition. Low Ammonia Formulation. Made in Europe. But don't just take our word for it. Here is a sample review from a delighted customer (Many many more reviews in our testimonial page).
Authentic Review From A Delighted Customer
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"I've had my eye on this hair dye for quite awhile but there wasn't very many reviews (at the time) or detailed information that I could find so I went with a more popular name brand and that was a mistake. I ended up having to dye my hair much sooner than I'm comfortable with because the popular name brand faded so fast and my gray hair stood out like a sore thumb. I am about 25-50% gray and it generally takes color well. I ordered the ugly duckling Rich Black and I am very pleased with the results. It really is a Rich dark Black. It did not dry out my hair And it covered All my gray hair very well. It was an easy pain free process. I did not experience any scalp sensitivity or burning. I've washed my hair quite a few times since and there hasn't been much fading, it still looks and feels great. The color is so beautiful and it really stands out. In fact, my BF came home and I was laying in bed, in the evening so there wasn't too much light And he noticed my hair. He's Never ever noticed when I dye my hair. I think because most hair dye especially black kinda look the same. The Ugly Duckling is not an average hair dye, its what I've been looking for in a hair color. I will continue to use this product!!!"
This is my first time bleaching my hair, what do I need?
Just the hair bleach powder and developer.
Ugly Duckling recommends Brilliant Blonde for 8+ levels of lift even on dark bases.
How should I mix the hair bleach with the developer?
The normal proportion is 1 part hair bleach to 2 parts developer but this can be varied according to hair type. Mix the bleach until it forms a smooth consistency (similar to gravy). It should not be so thin that it runs off the brush when you hold it above the bowl.
Add the developer to the powder bleach a little at a time, stirring as you do.
How should I apply the bleach mixture?
Section the hair into 4 large sections with sectioning clips.
Then unclip one section and create mini half-inch sections using your tail comb.
Start applying bleach in the back of the head where the hair is usually darkest and thickest, working your way round to the front sections, in half-inch sections.
Apply bleach quickly as you don’t want the mixture to dry out before it is applied. If it dries out the bleach will stop lifting.
Always keep at least half an inch away from the scalp.
Which developer should I use?
The general rule is to choose the developer according to how much lift you want to achieve.
For gentle color cleansing or reflect changing, use 10 Vol.
For color cleansing, use 10 Vol.
For color stripping and gentle lifting , use 20 Vol.
For significant lifting, use 30 Vol.
How long should I let it develop?
You need to watch the hair carefully and rinse when you have obtained the right color result.
The development time can vary from 15 minutes to 30 minutes, depending on the starting hair color level, texture, and thickness.
You can use heat to speed up the process but you need to keep watching and monitoring how it is lifting.
After 15 minutes of processing, you should check the progress. At this stage you can add some more mixture if necessary. Wash off when the hair reaches the desired level.
Can I add a blue or purple toner to the bleach and developer and do a one-step process?
You will need to do a separate toning process after you have finished your bleach application. You can use a toning shampoo at that stage.
After the bleach, wash and dry the hair. Then apply toner.
After bleaching, can I do another color?
Yes, you can. This can very often enhance the result and give you a richer, more flattering color.
Wash and dry after bleaching.
Then apply your chosen color.
For best results, choose a color within 1-2 level of the hair color level after bleaching.[link_rewrite] => how-to-bleach-hair )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 46 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 5 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How To Get Rid of Brassy Hair [meta_description] => Getting Rid of Those Dreadful Orange Tones [meta_keywords] => Color Neutralization | Brassiness | Orange Hair [content] =>
Why does my client's hair turn brassy when I bleach or color?
Hair has a natural undercoat, or secondary pigment, which becomes visible when you lighten it or even if you stay in the sun for very long.
When you lighten hair to a dark brown color, you get a red undercoat or tone.
When you lighten hair to a medium brown color, you get an orange undercoat or tone.
When you light hair to a blonde hair color, you get a yellow undercoat or tone.
This table below illustrates the undercoats occurring at every hair level.
These undercoats often represent a challenge for colorists as generally speaking these undercoats are not very attractive nor desired by clients.
3 Steps to get rid of Brassy Hair.
1. Use Lightener & Lift the Hair to Level 9 or 10.
The first and most important thing is to lift the hair sufficiently by using a quality hair lightener.
If you lift it to a level 9 or 10, you will be able to eliminate almost all the undercoats or secondary pigments that cause brassiness.
Please see below for what a level 9, 10 looks like.
Please note that if you have a a client with dark hair and you are looking to eliminate all her brassiness, you need to take her all the way up to a level 9, even if the actual result you are aiming for is a 7 or 8.
(Image from Hon G, Ugly Duckling Brand Ambassador).
2. Tone with a quality toner
After lifting, you can tone with any of the following:
For ultra blonde looks: Ugly Duckling Pearl Blonde Toner 100.21, Silver Blonde Toner 100.20
For very light and very ashy blonde looks: Ugly Duckling 10.2 (10V)
For ashy looks that neutralize brassiness whatever the color level, you can use the Ugly Duckling Ash line (10.1, 9.1, 8.1 etc).
3. Use Purple Shampoo or Purple Masque
When washing out your color, pour in a quality purple shampoo or masque. The purple pigments will help neutralize any remaining brassiness and give you a perfect ashy look.
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What Are Ugly Duckling Toners?
Ugly Duckling Toners are designed to get your hair to neutralize yellowness effectively and get your client the ultimate blonde look that she is looking for.
There are 3 products that Ugly Duckling recommends for use in toning applications:
Silver Blonde Toner 100.20 achieves a ultra-silvery, white blonde result with zero yellowness.
Pearl Blonde Toner 100.21 achieves an ultra-pearly white blonde result. Think Elsa in "Frozen".
10.2 (10V) has a strong violet component and is excellent at neutralizing yellowness in hair.
It is the perfect go-to toner for refresh applications and for cases where the hair has already been sufficiently lifted.
How should I use Ugly Duckling Toners?
First, you need to get the hair lifted to a level 10.
In order to do so, we suggest using Brilliant Blonde Lightener or any other quality lightener that can lift safely and effectively.
You do need to get your hair all the way up to a very pale yellow, and if you don't use enough product, you won't get there.
When the hair has been sufficiently lifted, rinse off.
Now, apply your chosen toner.
You can apply on wet hair.
Ugly Duckling toners typically act very fast, so you need to watch the hair color carefully and emulsify and wash off when it has achieved the hair color result that you are looking for.
Shampoo with a mildly acidic shampoo to close the hair cuticle once more.[link_rewrite] => how-to-use-ugly-duckling-toners )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 35 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 7 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => Balayage - 5 Things You Need to Know [meta_description] => What is Balayage? [meta_keywords] => balayage ,hair color trend [content] =>
What exactly is balayage?
Balayage is basically a freehand technique for highlighting hair where you paint the color on the hair by hand using free brush strokes rather than using traditional hair foils.
Balayage originated in France in the seventies. But it still remains the most popular coloring request in salons today.
Balayage gives an extremely sexy, sun-kissed, natural finish, which makes you look as though you’ve been sitting on Copacabana beach for the last 3 months. Think Gisele Bundchen, Julia Roberts, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Erin Wasson!
What’s so great about balayage?
Balayage creates a very natural look, as if your hair got lightened from sitting on the beach, not sitting in a salon.
The overall effect is sun-kissed highlights, as if you just got back from Bali or Ibiza. You can do it in many different ways, you can put in very soft, almost imperceptible highlights or you can do something stronger and funkier.
Who is balayage suitable for?
It is really suitable for younger women who want to portray a more physical, natural look.
But these days you also see many older women who come in to the salon looking for a more natural, sun-tanned look.
Why should a customer get a balayage?
Balayage is very seamless and natural. When done correctly it illuminates features, softens out skin tones and minimizes the amount of make-up a client may have to wear.
Another appeal of balayage is that it is a relatively low maintenance and economical as a hair color compared to a traditional full head or ombre coloring.
Because the color is painted on the hair vertically, you will not get that “visible hairline".
Meaning that as the color grows out, it will be less noticeable. So you don’t have to go back to the salon every few weeks for a refresh or a touch up.
How about hair stylists? What do they like about balayage?
Balayage is hand painting, so it is a very artistic and personal process, and this shows off the stylist’s skill. Stylists generally charge at least $70-$100 more for a balayage than for a regular foil highlight service. If it is a high quality balayage and if it is done in conjunction with a regrowth color and followed by a toning color then the total charges can easily reach $500.
Getting a perfect, uniform hair color result is always the objective for a stylist. However, hair color correction is definitely one of the more technical jobs that a hair colorist has to do.
Start with a thorough color consultation process to correctly understand your customer's needs.
You need to find out what color she is looking to be. You also need to assess her quality and condition because this will have a bearing on the final choice you and she make regarding the hair color you are going to use.
If your decision is to color darker, the job of color correction is a relatively easy one.
You can in most cases use 10 or 20 Vol, and do the entire head with one application, process and rinse.
Attend to the regrowth area first
Very often, stylists get cases where the mid-lengths and ends are about the right color level but the regrowth is not. In such cases you will need to first address the regrowth area.
Assess the lift required of this section and choose the correct strength of developer accordingly. If the lift required is more than 3 levels, you will need to use bleach.
Sometimes, stylists are reluctant to do so, but the math is unforgiving. If more than 3 levels of lift are required, use bleach or at the very least, high lift color.
Careful of the heat band
Remember that even when the regrowth is dark and you need to lift it, it is recommended in the first instance to stay 1 inch away from the scalp and color the rest of the regrowth first, returning later to the hair that is nearest to the scalp.
The scalp area is what is known as the "heat band". It processes first and fast due to the heat of the scalp, and you do not want to be in a situation where this hair is lighter than the rest.
So color this section last, and rinse off when this area gets to the correct color level.
Make a fresh mix and equalize from roots to ends
Once the regrowth area has been colored to the correct level, you can wash off entirely.
Now you need to refresh the entire hair.
For this, make a fresh mix for the refresh application for the entire head. Use this application to get a nice even look from roots to ends.
Since the hair is now all at the right color level, for your refresh application you can use a lower developer strength and you can process it quicker, for example 15 minutes only instead of the usual 25-30 minutes.
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Very often we get cases where the client has had a particular color done before but now has re-growth. She comes into the salon and wants her color refreshed.
Let us say that this client has had 6GA done in the past. Let’s say that her natural hair color level is dark brown, level 3.
Let’s complicate the case a little bit more and say she has 50% white hair and her regrowth needs attending to. How do we deal with this?
Dealing with the Regrowth Area First
We would suggest that for the roots you use a mix of 6GA and 6 with 40 Vol to achieve both the coverage required and the level 6 result. The base shade is needed to attain the coverage. The 40 Vol. is needed to attain the lift. You would need to apply this mixture to the regrowth area first.
Careful of the Heat Band
However, when applying, stay at least 1 inch away from the scalp area. This area is known as the heat band as it processes faster than any other part of the hair. Once you have done the rest of the regrowth, return to this part last and color it. Then watch carefully to make sure that it does not over process.
Refreshing Mid-lengths and Ends
Now that you have dealt with the regrowth, you can refresh the mid-lengths and ends.
To refresh the color on the mid-lengths and ends you would need to use a separate color mix of 6GA with 20 Vol only and apply for the last 10 to 15 minutes of the total processing time.[link_rewrite] => color-matching-a-typical-case )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 45 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 10 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => Color Cleansing, Color Stripping [meta_description] => How to Remove Excessive Color Build Up, How to Change Reflects [meta_keywords] => [content] =>
What is color cleansing?
Color Cleansing generally refers to the very mildest form of color removal. It generally involves the use of shampoo bleach.
A typical shampoo bleach application would be, which is equal parts of bleach, 10 Vol Developer and shampoo and warm water. It ill be done at the backwash, and it will be left on for around 10 minutes. It is a relatively light process and can be done to remove some color build-up or for tone correction.
How about color stripping?
Color stripping is the term used for the strongest of the color removal processes. Here one typically uses Bleach + 30 Vol developer and one normally leaves it on for 20 minutes or longer.
I have already colored my hair very dark. How do I get rid of my hair color?
If you have colored your hair either dark or in a very vibrant reflect you can use bleach as a color stripper.
The exact mix to choose will depend on the degree of color build up. See above.
What do I do if my customer is looking to change her reflects from warm to cold or cold to warm?
Warm reflects are reflects such as Gold, Copper, Chestnut, Mocha.
Cool reflects are reflect such as Ash and Violet.
If your customer comes in with a warm reflect and is looking to go cold (or vice versa) you will definitely need to do some color cleansing.
For color cleansing, use Brilliant Blonde, 20 Vol Developer, shampoo and warm water. Massage in at the back bar and leave it to process 20 – 30 minutes, Then rinse.
In cases where there is very significant color build-up, for example when there is build up of very strong color, you may need to use a slightly stronger mixture.
In this case, use Brilliant Blonde with 20 Vol only and let it process 20 – 30 minutes. Then rinse.
How about if I have used some very bold colors. Can I use bleach to color strip this?
Yes, you can. For more severe build-up, you will need to use a stringer mixture and do what is is called color stripping. In this case, use bleach + 30 Vol and develop for 15 minutes.
If you still have not removed the build up after 25 minutes, wash off and repeat.[link_rewrite] => color-cleansing-and-color-stripping )  => Array ( [id_cms] => 47 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 11 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => The Hair Color Wheel [meta_description] => How to Use the Color Wheel to apply Mix Tones [meta_keywords] => hair color wheel,color neutralization,using blue to neutralize,using violet to neutralize,using green to neutralize [content] =>
Each color has a relationship with every other color. The Hair Color Wheel is a way of showing this relationship.
How can the Hair Color Wheel Help me as a Colorist?
The following color neutralization issues are very common in a hair salon:
You lifted a customer’s hair with bleach but there is still yellow left in the hair.
You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to blonde but there is still orange left in the hair.
You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to brown but there is still red left in the hair.
Using the Hair Color Wheel for Color Neutralization
By using the color wheel, colorists can add in complementary colors to the color that they want to get rid of and neutralize the unwanted red, orange and yellow.
The complementary colors to use are known as mix tones. Ugly Duckling has all 3 of them: Green, Blue and Violet.
Add in green to get rid of unwanted redness on hair that has been lifted to brown or light brown.
You can also add use green to get rid of unwanted pinks, as pink is in the red family.
Add in blue to get rid of unwanted orange on hair that has been lifted to dark blonde.
Add in violet to get rid of unwanted yellow on hair that has been lifted to blonde.
Using the Hair Color Wheel for Color Selection
Hair colorists can also use the Color Wheel for Color Selection. Say, for example, that you have a client whose natural hair color is 5 and who wants to go 2 levels lighter, to 7 and she points to 7G on the shade chart.
As a colorist, you know that someone with a natural hair color level 5 is going to have a warm, orange-red undercoat. In other words, if you apply 7G as she has requested the color will come out still warmer.
Worse, when she leaves the salon and goes out, sunlight will make the undercoat come out even stronger and her hair will become even more orange over time.
The solution would be to select for her 7A, or 7 Ash instead of 7G. The ash will help neutralize the orange and give her an attractive 7 hair color.
So in this case, we took into consideration our client’s needs, but used the Hair Color Wheel to select a different color from what she asked for![link_rewrite] => the-hair-color-wheel ) ) 1
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