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How To Get Ash Blonde Hair - Get Rid of Brassy Hair Once And For All!

Ash Blonde Hair - Back

Ash Blonde Hair by Elona Taki

Are you looking to achieve the perfect Ash Blonde Hair Color? 

  • Are you finding it hard to get the right result?
  • Is your final result coming in too yellow, too brassy? Are you finding that your ash blonde result is not white enough?
  • Relax, these are very very common issues in a hair salon. We can help you achieve perfection whatever the hair color type of your client.
  • In this tutorial, we will show you how you can achieve this result even with a very dark regrowth.

First Step: Pre-lighten Any Dark Hair 

dark regrowth

Dark Regrowth

  • As you can see in the picture above, our model had a very dark regrowth area.
  • We needed to get the whole hair up to a consistent level 9/10.
  • In this case you need to apply lightener. We recommend Brilliant Blonde. It has been developed for dark bases, and lifts safely and effectively.
  • For hair above level 6 and for the root area, use 20 Vol developer.
  • For dark hair 5 and below on the lengths, use 30 Vol developer.
  • Make a mix of 1 part lightener to 2 parts developer and apply on all dark areas.
  • Aim to really saturate the hair with product, as you can see in the picture below, Otherwise it won't work well.

Brilliant Blonde with 20 Vol

Brilliant Blonde Lightener with 20 Vol

Second Step: Rinse Hair When You Have Got It To Level 10

  • Keep checking the hair while the mix is developing and rinse only when you have got it up to a level 10.
  • In this example, as the rest of the hair was already very light blonde, we did not overlap the areas.

Hair at level 10

Hair after rinsing: a consistent level 10

Third Step: Choose The Right Toner and Apply

  • We recommend you use Ugly Duckling Toners. They are very fast acting and have very strong pigments for quick neutralization of brassy or yellow hair.
  • If it is a first time for you toning with Ugly Duckling toners, then use either intense pearl blonde toner or intense silver blonde toner. These contain an extra booster which help get rid of any remaining yellowness or brassiness.
  • If it is second time toning application with Ugly Duckling, use the no-lift pearl blonde toner or no-lift silver blonde toner.
  • Mix your toner with a 10 or 20 Vol. developer.
  • Keep the mix at 1 part toner to 2 parts developer. This will give you a runny mix, and help you saturate well and evenly. 
  • Apply on the lengths first, then the root area (the root area processes faster). 
  • Work fast because the toner works fast and you must try and give all your hair the same amount of development time.
  • As you apply, you will see the product start to change color and turn greyish blue. These pigments are there to fight the yellow and get you to a true ash color.
  • Watch carefully and rinse when the hair has turned the color you want. Normally, around 10 -15 minutes of toning is enough.
  • Rinse when the correct level is achieved.

Hair Toner processing

Ugly Duckling toner during processing. You can see how the pigments are coloring the hair. 

Fourth Step: Apply Purple Shampoo and Mask

  • After rinsing, apply Purple Shampoo and Mask.
  • These products will add in purple pigments which will help kill any remaining yellow.
  • These products are also low pH and will help close the cuticles as well as kill any remaining yellow.
  • You need to use a lot of product and rub in really well to allow an efficient transfer of purple pigments into the hair. 
  • You can let the purple shampoo sit for around 5 minutes, then rinse.
  • For the purple mask, you can leave it in for around 10 minutes, preferably under a plastic cap, with gentle heat.
  • This helps the color transfer of violet pigments which kill yellow.
  • Brilliant Blonde purple shampoo and mask can both be used as a maintenance product, and not just immediately after bleaching and coloring.

Rub in Purple Shampoo

Result: Consistent Ash Blonde Hair 

Final Result - Ash Blonde Hair

Hair Color by Elona Taki.

Blonding Set

Start blonding now with these Ugly Duckling best sellers!

Free coloring tools

Set contains
Brilliant Blonde Lightener 16 oz.
Intense Pearl Blonde 100.21
Intense Silver Blonde 100.20
Pearl Blonde Toner
Small Purple Shampoo
20 Vol. Developer
Coloring Tools (FREE!)
$ 98.40