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How To Bleach Dark Hair To Ultra White Blonde

Looking To Take Dark Hair Ultra White Blonde?

As a stylist, do you get requests from clients to bleach and lift dark hair to ultra white blonde?

It is possible to do this and maintain hair integrity at the same time provided you do it right.

Our model had very frizzy, long dark hair, and we succeeded in transforming her into an ultra white blonde look which she was very happy with and which she wore to her summer proms.

Hairdresser: Ashley Betancourt.

How To Bleach Dark Hair and Take it To Ultra White Blonde Step-By-Step (with Pictures and Video)

Bleaching Hair - Before and After

We bleached and toned our model's dark hair to this!

This was done in 1 sitting.

In this tutorial we will show you how to achieve this in your own salon.

1. What You Will Need

  • A coloring bowl, clip and brushes
  • Brilliant Blonde Lightener and 30 Vol Developer for lifting
  • Intense Pearl Blonde Toner and 20 Vol Developer for toning
  • Purple Shampoo to Finish and to Maintain

2. Mix the Lightener and the Developer in a Mixing Bowl

  • Our recommended mix is 1 part Lightener to 2 parts Developer.
  • This gives a mix which is fairly runny, which is what you need to saturate the hair properly and work fast.
  • At the same time, it is not too runny that it will drip off he brush.
  • As this model has fairly dark hair and we are looking to go ultra white blonde, we decided to start off on the lengths using 30 Vol Developer.
  • The rule of thumb when using bleach is 20 Vol developer for 1-2 levels lift and for the root area, and 30 Vol for 3 levels lift and more.
  • Section the hair and apply the mix thoroughly using a brush, starting from the back where the hair is the thickest.
  • At this stage, apply only on the lengths and leave out the last inch closest to the root.
  • Aim to deposit as much of the mix as possible. In this case, because of the hair frizziness, after applying with a brush, we re-applied with fingers using gloves.

The Ideal Bleach Mix

3. Section the Hair and Apply The Bleach Mix

  • This is long hair, and bleach needs to be applied as fast as possible so that all the hair lifts equally.
  • So first section the hair into 4 large quadrants, and pin back 3 quadrants.
  • Start off with one of the quadrants at the back.
  • Section this one into very fine sections and start applying the bleach.
  • At this stage, apply only on the lengths, leaving the root part (which processes faster) for later
  • Work your way round the hair as quickly as you can.

Start Applying Bleach From The Back

4. Check The Hair And Re-Apply Fresh Bleach Mix If Necessary

  • Once you have applied everywhere on the lengths, check how it is processing, especially at the back where you started.
  • If the mixture has dried up and you have still not lifted to level 9/10. you will need to re-apply fresh mix.
  • Check also for hair integrity. As long as the hair is still strong and has its natural elasticity, you're good.
  • In the case of dark hair, virgin or healthy hair, after 30 minutes of processing you can rinse and re-apply one more time if you have not achieved level 9/10.

Keep Checking and Re-Apply Mix if Necessary

5. Get The Lengths Up to A Consistent Level 9/10

  • Your aim should be to get the lengths up to this color:

Get The Lengths Up to Level 9/10

  • Notice that at this stage we still have not touched the root area:

Root Area

6. Now Apply On The Root Area, Using 20 Vol Developer.

  • In general, you need to be careful when applying bleach on the root area. A skin sensitivity test is always recommended before any bleach application.
  • Heat from the scalp means that hair near the root always processes faster than anywhere else.
  • That is why for the root area, we made a fresh mix using 20 Vol Developer.
  • Because the lengths are all done, we were able to concentrate on the root area, and rinse as soon as we got the desired result.

Hair Lifted From Roots To Ends

7. Rinse And Apply Intense Pearl Blonde Toner

Ugly Duckling Toner

  • After rinsing with water, apply Ugly Duckling Intense Pearl Blonde Toner with 20 Vol.
  • The recommended mix is 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
  • Once again, work fast, starting off with the lengths.
  • Return to the root area afterwards.
  • You will see the pigments of the toner will start to change. This is normal.
  • Let the color process. Do not let the toner process more than around 10 minutes on the root area and more than 20 minutes overall.

Applying Toner (2)

8. Rinse with Purple Shampoo and/or Mask.

Purple Shampoo and Mask

  • Now rinse with Brilliant Blonde Purple shampoo and/or Mask. 
  • These products contain intense violet pigments which will help finish your hair color result and kill any residual yellowness.
  • Because they are low pH, they also help to close the hair cuticle after the lightening and coloring.

9. Final Result.

Final Result

Final Result After Bleaching and Toning

10. Watch Full Video Tutorial Here: