1. What is Brassy Hair and How Can I Get Rid of It?
- Brassy hair is hair that looks yellowish or orange.
- Basically, hair is "brassy" because it has not been lifted enough - the darker the blonde, the more "brassy" it will look.
- In the image below, you can see that the hair at level 7/8 is more brassy and more orange than the hair at level 9/10.
Image Supplied by Ugly Duckling Stylist Hon G.
2. What exactly is causing my client's hair to turn brassy when I bleach or color or lift?
A little bit of color theory:
- Hair has a natural undercoat, or secondary pigment, which becomes visible when you lighten it or even if you stay in the sun for very long.
- When you lighten hair to a dark brown color, you get a red undercoat or tone.
- When you lighten hair to a medium brown color, you get an orange undercoat or tone.
- When you light hair to a blonde hair color, you get a yellow undercoat or tone.
- This table below illustrates the undercoats which occur at every hair level.
- These undercoats often represent a challenge for colorists and their customers as generally speaking these undercoats are not very attractive nor desired by clients.
3. What Should I Do to Get Rid of Brassy Hair?
You can get rid of any brassiness provided you follow the right techniques. Basically, there are 3 steps:
Lift the hair correctly and consistently. We recommend Brilliant Blonde Lightener, it has been formulated for dark bases and lifts up to 8 levels.
Tone with the appropriate choice of toner. We have a choice of 4 toners that produce pearl and silver blonde results. Also blue ash and silver grey colors which are also very popular. Please consult our shop-now page.
Finish with Purple Shampoo and Mask.
STEP 1. Use A Quality Lightener & Lift the Hair to Level 10.
- If you have a client with yellowish, orange hair and you are looking to eliminate all her brassiness, you need to take her all the way up to a level 10 (see picture below).
- If you lift it to a level 10, you will be able to eliminate almost all the secondary pigments that cause brassiness.
- If you don't lift out all that yellow, the hair will stay brassy even if you put in a lot of ash or ash based toners!
Hair Color Levels
Hair Which Has Been Prelightened to Level 10
You can see that in the picture above we have lifted up our model Mag Sam's hair to a true level 10. Now we are ready to start toning. (Look at the bottom of this blog for her final result!)
STEP 2. Tone with a quality toner
- Toners provide the color neutralization which allow you to get rid of any remaining yellowness and brassiness.
- If you are looking for a quality ash blonde, platinum blonde, pearl blonde or silver blonde result, you need to use a very good toner.
- If you are looking for an intense ultra white blonde look, and this is a first toning application with Ugly Duckling toners, use Intense Pearl Blonde 100.21 or Intense Silver Blonde 100.20
- If you have previously lifted your hair and are looking for a lighter, refresh toning application only, tone with No-Lift Pearl Blonde Toner, No-Lift Silver Blonde Toner.
- If you are looking for a blue based ultra "cold" ash blonde result, we would recommend Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde 10.1B
- The recommended mix is 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
- Aim for a good product saturation and leave on for 10-15 minutes.
Hair Toned with Intense Pearl Blonde 100.21. Hair Color by @hair_by_becki
Hair Toned with Pearl Blonde Toner. Hair Color by Elona Taki
STEP 3. After toning, finish with Purple Shampoo and Mask.
- Our purple shampoo and mask are low pH sulfate-free products and will help close the cuticle after coloring as well as tone and condition.
- They contain intense purple pigments which will neutralize any remaining yellowness or brassiness in the hair.
- For best results, use plenty of product and massage in very thoroughly. The more these products are in contact with your hair, the more they will transfer those pigments.
- With the purple mask, leave on for 10 minutes under a plastic cap and, if possible, some gentle heat.
Is Your Hair Like This?
It Can Become Like This!
Before: Level 6 Regrowth and Yellow Blonde Lengths.
Brilliant Blonde Lightener with 20 Vol developer on the root area
Intense Pearl Blonde Toner with 20 Vol throughout to tone
Purple Shampoo and Mask to finish.
WATCH VIDEO TUTORIAL "HOW TO GET RID OF BRASSY HAIR":
- Brilliant Blonde Lightener on Regrowth
- 10.1b Extra Light Cool Blonde to Tone
- 20 Vol Developer for both processes
"I have been a hairstylist for 8 years and I have never seen a product like that works as well as Ugly Duckling. UD is a miracle color line. The bleach, toner and shampoo is amazing. The bleach brought my level 3-4 pre-colored hair to a level 9 with two processes and little damage. The pearl blonde toner killed the yellow tones, leaving it a nice, neutral blonde that I love. My friend and I were completely amazed. If I were to ever open my own salon, I would definitely consider using the entire UD line in my salon. There is simply nothing better." - Facebook Review) => Array ( [id_cms] => 43 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 1 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How to Bleach Hair - 10 Things You Need to Get Right [meta_description] => Step By Step Instructions to Lightening Your Hair With Bleach | Video Tutorial | Products & Recipes Included [meta_keywords] => bleach,hair lightener,video tutorial [content] =>
1. What do I Need in order to Bleach Hair Correctly?
- Brilliant Blonde lightener. We recommend it as it has been designed for dark bases and can lift up to 8 levels safely and effectively.
- Developer. Use 20 Vol for 1-3 levels lift and 30 Vol for more than 3 levels lift.
- Brush For Applying Hair, clips for sectioning, a non-metallic mixing bowl, a plastic whisk for mixing. Ugly Duckling sells a professional tool kit which contains these.
2. Which Developer Should I Use When Bleaching?
Developer choice is directly related to how much lift you are looking for.
- Use 10 Vol for gentle color cleansing
- Use 20 Vol for color removal and lifts of 1-3 levels.
- Use 30 Vol for significant lifting (more than 3 levels of lift).
3. What is the Correct Mix Ratio of Bleach to Developer?
- With Ugly Duckling Brilliant Blonde, we recommend a mix of 1 part Bleach to 2 parts developer. This will give you a fairly runny mix which will be easy and quick to apply.
- Mix the bleach until it forms a smooth consistency (similar to gravy). Do this in a plastic mixing bowl. Add the developer to the powder bleach a little at a time, stirring as you do.
- Our recommended "fairly runny" mix will make it easier to cover all the hair evenly, thus avoiding patchy results.
- It will also allow you to work fast. This also means you have longer to work before the mixture turns dry.
- The only time you will need a thicker mixture which won't drip is when you are doing a balayage (free painting of highlights).
- When doing a balayage, make the mixture a little drier. 1 part lightener to 1 part developer is good.
Bleach Mixture, Not too Runny, Not Too Thick.
4. How Should I Apply the Bleach Mixture?
- Section the hair into 4 large sections with sectioning clips.
- Then unclip one section and create mini half-inch sections using your tail comb.
- Start applying bleach in the back of the head where the hair is usually darkest and thickest, working your way round to the front sections, in half-inch sections.
- Make sure that you saturate the hair properly with the product mixture. You need to literally smother the hair with bleach.
- Work fast so that that you can give the whole head an equal amount of processing time.
- Also, you don’t want the mixture to dry out before it is applied.
- Always keep at least half an inch away from the scalp.
- If you are looking to lift all the way from the root, return to the last half inch (nearest to the root) after having applied everywhere else. The part nearest the scalp will process the fastest because it is getting heat from the scalp.
- Try and avoid actually touching the scalp unless your bleach mix is a fairly mild one.
Section the hair, then start applying the bleach from the back.
5. How Long should I leave the Bleach Mixture in the Hair?
- There is no fixed development time for bleach, you need to keep watch, watch and watch.... and rinse when the hair has been sufficiently lifted.
- The development time can vary from 15 minutes to 30 minutes, depending on the starting hair color level, texture, and thickness.
- You need to check that the hair is lifting every 10 minutes. When you do that, test also by pulling one strand of hair to be sure that the hair is still elastic and strong and taking well to bleach.
- Add in more mixture if you can see that there are parts which are lifting more slowly or parts where the bleach mixture is drying out.
- If you are running out of product at this stage, don't hesitate to make a fresh mix. It will help you lift quickly.
- Wash off when the hair reaches the desired level.
- Above all, make sure you do not rinse too early - this is the number one mistake that stylists make!
- If you are trying to do a true ash blonde, you should try and take the hair to a level 9 or level 10 (see below)
- After 30 minutes, rinse off whatever the level. It will be dry anyway, and will have stopped working.
- If you have not attained level 9/10, and provided the hair is still in good condition (ie it's still elastic and strong) you can do a second application.
- Asian hair, Hispanic hair, other dark hair looking to go blonde will very often require a second application.
- Do try to get rid of all the orange pigments and also most of the yellow pigments before you rinse.
- See the image below. Aim for a level 9 or 10 if you are trying to get blonde hair.
- When you get to your target level, rinse using an acidic shampoo. This will close the hair cuticle after the bleaching process.
Hair Color At Level 10 After Bleaching
6. How about Bleaching Dark Brown Hair?
- The rules are exactly the same, except that you need to realize that you are going to need to lift a lot!
- This means you need to use 30 Vol developer, and saturate the hair really well with the product mix.
- If parts of the hair dry out after you apply, or you can see that they are not lifting very much, you will need to re-apply a fresh batch of mixture.
- You need to keep applying and processing in this way until you have lifted out all the brassiness.
- If you are starting off with dark brown hair, it will progressively turn copper, then orange, then yellow, then pale yellow.
- Be patient, your hair needs to go through all these levels before you get it to look like the picture above.
- If after 30 minutes you are not there, rinse off and make a fresh application (of course check your hair strength and elasticity first).
7. How do I Prevent "Hot Roots" when I bleach?
- Apply bleach first on the lengths and then return to the regrowth area in the last 10 minutes only. And rinse before the roots get "hot".
- Remember that even when doing the root area you don't need to apply the bleach mixture directly right onto the scalp.
- If you stop a quarter of an inch away, the mixture will travel up and process with the heat from the scalp.
8. What do I do if my Client's Ends are one Color and Her Mid-Lengths are Another Color ?
- If you have inconsistent color on your lengths, for example a chunk which has been colored darker and another chunk which has been lightened in the past, plus the natural regrowth hair at the root area, you will need to have a clear bleaching strategy.
- You will need to figure out which areas need the most lifting and apply bleach first on those areas.
- Remember: the aim is to get the entire head of hair up to a consistent pale yellow level.
- You may need to divide up your client's hair mentally into 3 different sections and apply bleach at different times to each section.
- You may also need to keep watching as your customer's hair develops and then add more bleach onto sections which are not lifting fast enough.
- In this way you can bring all your hair to one consistent color level, which is absolutely what you need to do to achieve an attractive color result.
9. How Should I Color or Tone the Hair After Bleaching?
- Coloring or toning after bleaching is necessary in order to achieve a vivid, 3 dimensional color.
- Ugly Duckling toners are very effective and we would recommend these if you are trying to achieve ultra white blonde results such as silver blonde or pearl blonde.
- Use Intense Pearl Blonde 100V or Intense Silver Blonde 100B if your are looking for ultra white results and you still need to lift a little more.
- Use Pearl Blonde Toner 10V or Silver Blonde Toner 10B if you are have already achieved a true level 10 and for refresh toning applications.
10. How Should I Treat The Hair After Bleaching and Toning?
- Rinse with water, then wash with a good quality acidic shampoo.
- If you are looking for an ultra white blonde or ash blonde result, use Ugly Duckling Purple Shampoo and Mask for additional toning.
- Purple Shampoo and Mask can also be used as a maintenance treatment to keep your color white and ashy.
WATCH VIDEO TUTORIAL HERE - HOW TO BLEACH DARK HAIR:
PRODUCTS USED IN VIDEO:
- Brilliant Blonde Lightener
- Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V
- 20 Vol Developer
- Purple Shampoo and Mask
"The best bleach I have used so far. It only takes 15 minutes at the most and gets the blonde to that perfect pale yellow color." - Facebook Tutorial.) => Array ( [id_cms] => 48 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 2 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How to Apply Dye on Hair: 10 Things You Need to Get Right [meta_description] => The Professional Way to Color Hair | Application Tips, Developer Mix Ratios, Processing Times All Explained | Step by Step with Videos [meta_keywords] => how to color hair,how to dye hair,how to emulsify [content] =>
1. Apply hair dye on dry, unwashed hair
All hair dye has been designed to work best on dry, unwashed hair. The oil from your hair will protect the scalp while it is being colored.
All you need to do to prepare the hair for coloring is comb it finely so that you are ready to start sectioning.
2. Assess how many levels you are lifting
You must do a very accurate assessment of every part of your client's hair and determine how many levels you are trying to lift.
You must do this for every part of the hair, for example for the regrowth area as as well as for the ends.
Based on this analysis, you will be able to calculate the developer strength you need and also which part of the hair you need to deal with first.
NB If you are looking to lift any part of your client's hair by more than 3 levels, you will need to use a high lift product or a lightener.
3. Choose the correct strength of developer.
For level on level coloring, use 10 Vol developer.
For 1-2 levels lift, use 20 Vol developer.
For 2-3 levels lift, use 30 Vol developer.
For 3 levels and more, use 40 Vol developer.
If you are toning pre-lightened hair, use 10 Vol if the hair is already very very blonde (level 10). Otherwise, use 20 Vol.
4. Measure the hair dye and developer carefully.
The right mix between hair dye and developer will have a huge impact on the hair color result.
If you put in too little developer, you won’t be opening the hair cuticle enough. If you put in too much developer, you will be lightening the hair but not depositing enough hair dye and the color won’t last.
So always measure your hair dye and developer properly. We recommend using either kitchen scales or a measuring bowl with markers.
For most Ugly Duckling hair color, the correct mix is 1 part hair dye to 1 part developer.
For high lift colors, the correct mix is 1 part hair dye to 2 parts developer.
For toners, the correct mix is 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
5. Section the hair correctly before applying hair dye
Part the hair into 4 big sections. Tie up 3 sections with a clip.
On the remaining unclipped section, start taking ¼ inch mini-sections in order to apply the color with your dye brush. Lift each strand up and apply color from just away from the scalp to the ends. Neat, even sectioning is really really important.
Taking fine sections will help you achieve even color results.
Once you have completed 1 big section in this way, pin up again. Then start on another section and do mini sections on this one in the same way.
Repeat on all sections until you have finished coloring the hair.
6. Use Enough Product.
In order to get the most vibrant color possible, you must use enough product mix and you must saturate the hair properly. The image below shows a section of hair after the product has been applied:
7. Use your fingers to do the coloring a second time
Run through the hair a second time after applying the color, with fingers (wearing gloves). Make a second mix if necessary. By using your fingers you can spread out the color (avoid patches) and deposit more color into the cortex just as the cuticle is opening up.
This is what makes the color really intense and vibrant when you are dyeing hair. If your customer has white hair, you should also cross-check how well you have covered the white hair by re-sectioning the hair and checking that all white hair has been properly covered.
Some areas such as the nape area are particularly resistant and you need to pay particular attention here. Avoid using combs to color or re-color, as you can end up ruining the hair cuticles which have been opened in the coloring process.
8. Respect the processing time
For most colors, the processing time is 30 minutes.
For toners, rinse off when the correct color appears (around 10-15 minutes is normal).
For high lift colors: up to 40 minutes.
Before rinsing, add a little water to the color and rub at the scalp area. Then rub well around the hairline first, then middle and nape.
This process is known as emulsification. It helps lock in the color into the hair, and gives you really vibrant, long-lasting color results plus hair that feels full and very well conditioned.
10. Shampoo using an acidic (low pH) shampoo, conditioner or mask.
Use an acidic shampoo and conditioner to close the hair cuticle and return the hair to its natural pH level.
Watch This Video of a High Lift Blonde 100.10 Being Applied on a Regrowth with 30 Developer to Lift and Tone:
Watch This Video of Transformation of Dark Hair Using Ugly Duckling 4.20, 7.66 and Violet:
Watch This Video of Lifting and Toning using Brilliant Blonde Lightener followed by Intense Pearl Blonde:[link_rewrite] => how-to-apply-dye-on-hair [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => ) => Array ( [id_cms] => 60 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 3 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => What Happens If You Put Too Much Developer Into Your Dye? [meta_description] => Adding the Correct Amount of Developer | Ugly Duckling Professional Hair Tutorial FAQ | with Videos [meta_keywords] => Developer,Hair Color,Mix ratio,Toner Mix,Bleach Mix,Color Mix,video,faq,tutorial [content] =>
What is the Right Mix Ratio for Ugly Duckling Color?
- The recommended mix ratio for Ugly Duckling Color is 1 part color to 1 part developer for most of our colors.
- The recommended mix ratio for Ugly Duckling Toners (Intense Pearl Blonde, Intense Silver Blonde, Pearl Blonde Toner, Silver Blonde Toner) is 1 part color to 2 parts developer.
- The recommended mix For Ugly Ducking High Lift Colors (anything beginning with the number 100) is also 1 part color to 2 parts developer.
- The recommended mix for Ugly Duckling Bleach (Brilliant Blonde), is 1 part Brilliant Blonde to 2 parts color.
Use Scales to Weigh Your Product For Best Results
We do recommend that you try and get the mix as correct as possible, particularly if you are new to coloring. Please follow the steps below:
- Use weighing scales. Set the scale to zero with an empty coloring bowl on it.
- Then add in your color into the bowl and weigh again, so you know exactly how much you have out in.
- Do the same when you add in the developer.
- Later, as you get more experience, you can try out different mixes. Expert colorists do indeed vary the mix according to their personal preferences and according to the situation.
What Happens If I Put Too Much Developer In The Dye?
- Your mix will be more wet, more runny.
- If it is way too runny, you may end up lightening the hair, but not depositing enough color. It will end up thinner, flatter and last less long.
Are There Any Cases Where it is a Good Idea to Deliberately Put in Extra Developer?
- Putting in more developer will give you a runnier solution.
- This is helpful when you want to saturate the hair (cover the hair with product) really really well and evenly. You will get a more even color result and you will tend to avoid patches.This is particularly important in full head applications.
- A runnier solution will allow you to work fast. This may be an important factor when your client's hair is long and you want to give all the hair the same processing time roots to ends.
- Very often, expert colorists tend to go with a runnier solution for the above reasons. Many of the artists who produce video tutorials for Ugly Duckling do actually use fairly runny mixes (See below)
- Even when going with a runnier solution, aim at a maximum mix of 1:1.5 for Ugly Duckling Color and 1:2.5 mix for Ugly Duckling Lighteners (Brilliant Blonde) and toners. Any more and you may be compromising color results.
What Happens If I Put Too Little Developer in The Dye?
- Your mix will be too dry, and you won't be able to saturate the hair properly with product and you may also get uneven and patchy color results.
- You will not be lifting out enough of the hair's natural melanin.
- This will mean you may end up with darker hair than you wished for.
Are There Any Cases Where it is A Good Idea to Deliberately Put in Too Little Developer?
- It will help if you want to do a balayage technique (free painting with dye brush) and you want to position the color accurately and not have any product dripping off the brush.
- Balayage artists tend to work with thicker color mixes. This helps avoid putting on too much product in one go and thus avoid visible lines of demarcation.
- It will also help if you are looking to do grey hair coverage and your client has difficult to cover grey hair. You will get a darker color result, but you will be able to improve grey hair coverage.
- Even when going for a less runny solution, aim at a minimum mix of 1:0.8 for Ugly Duckling Color and 1:1.5 mix for Ugly Duckling Lightener (Brilliant Blonde) and toners.
Watch Some Videos of How To Mix Ugly Duckling Color with Developer:[link_rewrite] => what-happens-if-you-put-too-much-developer-in-your-dye [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] =>
"I was looking for a brilliant silver that didnt have crappy blue undertones. I decided to try Ugly Duckling after watching several videos of it being used with Olaplex. I absolutely loved my results. No crappy blue I had to wait weeks to wash out so I was left with my silver, it was just a gorgeous silver right away and 4 months later it still has the pretty silver going. My hair looked and felt shiny and soft. I love the products and stock up so I don't chance running out when I need to touch up!" - Facebook Review.) => Array ( [id_cms] => 38 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 4 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How To Get Ash Blonde Hair - Get Rid of Brassy Hair Once And For All! [meta_description] => How To Get Ash Blonde Hair From Yellow | Follow our Step-by-Step Techniques and Get Your Hair To A True White Ash Blonde [meta_keywords] => Ash Blonde ,hair color,Ash Blonde From Yellow,How to get ash blonde hair,Ash Blonde From Yellow,dark regrowth,kill brassiness [content] =>
Ash Blonde Hair by Elona Taki
Are you looking to achieve the perfect Ash Blonde Hair Color?
- Are you finding it hard to get the right result?
- Is your final result coming in too yellow, too brassy? Are you finding that your ash blonde result is not white enough?
- Relax, these are very very common issues in a hair salon. We can help you achieve perfection whatever the hair color type of your client.
- In this tutorial, we will show you how you can achieve this result even with a very dark regrowth.
First Step: Pre-lighten Any Dark Hair
- As you can see in the picture above, our model had a very dark regrowth area.
- We needed to get the whole hair up to a consistent level 9/10.
- In this case you need to apply lightener. We recommend Brilliant Blonde. It has been developed for dark bases, and lifts safely and effectively.
- For hair above level 6 and for the root area, use 20 Vol developer.
- For dark hair 5 and below on the lengths, use 30 Vol developer.
- Make a mix of 1 part lightener to 2 parts developer and apply on all dark areas.
- Aim to really saturate the hair with product, as you can see in the picture below, Otherwise it won't work well.
Brilliant Blonde Lightener with 20 Vol
Second Step: Rinse Hair When You Have Got It To Level 10
- Keep checking the hair while the mix is developing and rinse only when you have got it up to a level 10.
- In this example, as the rest of the hair was already very light blonde, we did not overlap the areas.
Hair after rinsing: a consistent level 10
Third Step: Choose The Right Toner and Apply
- We recommend you use Ugly Duckling Toners. They are very fast acting and have very strong pigments for quick neutralization of brassy or yellow hair.
- If it is a first time for you toning with Ugly Duckling toners, then use either intense pearl blonde toner or intense silver blonde toner. These contain an extra booster which help get rid of any remaining yellowness or brassiness.
- If it is second time toning application with Ugly Duckling, use the no-lift pearl blonde toner or no-lift silver blonde toner.
- Mix your toner with a 10 or 20 Vol. developer.
- Keep the mix at 1 part toner to 2 parts developer. This will give you a runny mix, and help you saturate well and evenly.
- Apply on the lengths first, then the root area (the root area processes faster).
- Work fast because the toner works fast and you must try and give all your hair the same amount of development time.
- As you apply, you will see the product start to change color and turn greyish blue. These pigments are there to fight the yellow and get you to a true ash color.
- Watch carefully and rinse when the hair has turned the color you want. Normally, around 10 -15 minutes of toning is enough.
- Rinse when the correct level is achieved.
Ugly Duckling toner during processing. You can see how the pigments are coloring the hair.
Fourth Step: Apply Purple Shampoo and Mask
- After rinsing, apply Purple Shampoo and Mask.
- These products will add in purple pigments which will help kill any remaining yellow.
- These products are also low pH and will help close the cuticles as well as kill any remaining yellow.
- You need to use a lot of product and rub in really well to allow an efficient transfer of purple pigments into the hair.
- You can let the purple shampoo sit for around 5 minutes, then rinse.
- For the purple mask, you can leave it in for around 10 minutes, preferably under a plastic cap, with gentle heat.
- This helps the color transfer of violet pigments which kill yellow.
- Brilliant Blonde purple shampoo and mask can both be used as a maintenance product, and not just immediately after bleaching and coloring.
Result: Consistent Ash Blonde Hair
Hair Color by Elona Taki.
Looking For Ash Blonde Hair? Watch This Video!
Each color has a relationship with every other color. The Hair Color Wheel is a way of showing this relationship.
Q: How can the Hair Color Wheel Help me as a Colorist?
The following color neutralization issues are very common in a hair salon:
- You lifted a customer’s hair with bleach but there is still yellow left in the hair.
- You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to blonde but there is still orange left in the hair.
- You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to brown but there is still red left in the hair.
A: What You Can Do:
You can use the Hair Color Wheel for color neutralization
- Add in green to get rid of unwanted red on hair that has been lifted to brown or light brown.
- Add in blue to get rid of unwanted orange on hair that has been lifted to dark blonde.
- Add in violet to get rid of unwanted yellow on hair that has been lifted to blonde.
- In each case you are using the opposite color on the color wheel to counteract the unwanted red, orange and yellow.
- The technique here is to add in a very small quantity of the opposite color.
Q: Is there Any Other Way of Neutralizing Warm Tones?
A: Yes, instead of adding in pure color, use ash additives instead:
- Ash Grey Additive has been developed to add in green for bases up to level 6. You can add in an inch of this into your color mix. This helps counteract brassiness (yellow/orange) in brown hair.
- Ash Blue Additive has been developed to add in blue for bases 6 and up. You can add in an inch of this into your color mix. This helps counteract brassiness (yellow) in blonde hair.
- Ash additives are generally easier to work with than pure colors.
- The recommended technique here is to squeeze in a little of your chosen ash additive (around 1 inch is good to start with) to a full tube of the blonde color that you are using.
Q: Can I also use Ash Based Toners to Kill Brass When I am Working on Blonde Hair?
A: Yes, you can:
- Ugly Duckling's toner range have been formulated with exactly that aim in mind.
- They have very fast acting pigments which typically neutralize in around 10 minutes.
- Use Intense Pearl Blonde 100V or Intense Silver Blonde 100B for first time applications or when the color is still yellow (level 9)
- Use Pearl Blonde Toner or Silver Blonde Toner when the lift is correct (level 10).
Q: I'm doing all that but I am still not getting the Ashy Blonde Result that I am looking for. What am I doing wrong?
A: Almost certainly you need to lift the hair more.
- If you are looking for a white blonde or an ashy blonde, color neutralization from a dark level will not work.
- Almost certainly you need to lift the hair more. You should not rely on color neutralization only!
- Use a quality lightener and lift the hair up, ideally all the way to level 10. That way you will get rid of all yellow and orange.
- Then apply a toner as above.
Hair that has been correctly lifted to level 9/10
Q: My hair pulls orange. What should I do?
A: Sorry, there is no such thing as hair that "pulls orange."
- There is, however, such a thing as a stylist that does not lift enough!
- Don't misuse the color wheel and think you can just dump in ash and more ash and kill brassiness. It doesn't work like that.
- Hair has its natural melanin which is causing that orange and that brassiness. You need to remove that first.
- Lift up the hair to a true level 9/10. Use a quality lightener that works well on dark hair.
- Then apply your ash toners as above. You will get a much better result.
Watch This Video to See Dark Hair Bleached Correctly and Toned to Pearl Blonde in One Sitting:
- Brilliant Blonde Lightener
- Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V
- Purple Shampoo and Mask
[link_rewrite] => the-hair-color-wheel [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => ) => Array ( [id_cms] => 55 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 6 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How To Get 5 Levels of Lift on Hair WIthout Bleach [meta_description] => This Hair Dye Can Get 5 Levels of Lift Without Using Bleach | Use with 30 Vol For Best Results [meta_keywords] => no bleach hair dye,higlift hair color,no bleach hair dye [content] =>
Are You Looking To Lift or Lighten Hair Without Using Bleach?
If you are looking to get lift and you want to avoid using bleach, it is possible to do so using Ugly Duckling’s High Lift Deep Ash Blonde.
- High Lift Deep Ash Blonde gives up to 5 levels of lift without using bleach.
- This product also contains an extra large dose of ash pigments to neutralize the hair as it lifts.
- It helps the final hair result from getting too warm or ashy.
- Ugly Duckling also has some other high lift colors to help you get other blonde or ash blonde hair color results.
Which High Lift Color Should I use?
All Ugly Duckling High Lift Colors begin with a 100.
For a regular blonde look, use High Lift Blonde 100.
How Do I Apply High Lift Hair Color?
- The mix ratios for high lift colors is 1 part color to 2 parts developer.
- Use 30 Vol developer if you are applying to get up to 5 levels of lift.
- If you have a darker or regrowth area that needs a lot of lift, as in the picture below, you need to deal with that area first.
- Apply the mix first on this area.
- Wait 20 minutes or until the hair has lifted all the way up to the lengths.
- Now make a fresh mix, with 20 Vol this time, and apply to the rest of the hair.
Before: Regrowth of Level 6, Mid-Lengths Blonde But Washed Out.
Mix 100.11 with 30 Vol.
Apply to Root Area First to Lift It. Apply To Hair Ends in the Final 20 Minutes.
The Final result. Consistent Deep Ash Blonde Result.
Looking to Get This Color Result?
If you would like to get the product used for your salon or your hair coloring, please go to High Lift Deep Ash Blonde 100.11.
Color Tutorial by Elona Taki.[link_rewrite] => no-bleach-hair-dye [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => ) => Array ( [id_cms] => 66 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 7 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => 5 Insanely Beautiful Shadow Root Recipes That You Can Do Today! [meta_description] => How to do Shadow Roots| 5 Recipes & Techniques | Step by Step Video Tutorial [meta_keywords] => Shadow Root,Ombre,Color Correction,color melt [content] =>
Shadow Root by Elona Taki
We have created 5 shadow root looks for you, with techniques and recipes! Create these looks in your salon today!
1. Subtle Blonde Shadow Root
Color by Elona Taki
- Our model came in with a very large regrowth area and light ends.
- We applied 5.11 with 20 Vol on the first 4 inches of the root area.
- We blended that into 6N with 20 Vol on the rest of the regrowth.
- Remember to interweave when sectioning in order to achieve a seamless transition.
- We applied 100.21 Intense Pearl Blonde with 20 Vol on to the ends.
- Processing time was around 30 minutes for the dark colors, around 15 minutes on the already pre-lightened ends.
- We rinsed.
- Finally, Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo was applied, rubbed in for 5 minutes to equalize the whole hair and rinsed.
2. Blonde Shadow Root on a Dark Base
Color by Ashley Betancourt
- Our model had naturally very dark hair (level 3).
- We wanted to give her a look which would show a dark color blending into something much much lighter.
- We applied Brilliant Blonde lightener and 40 Vol to lift her roots to pale yellow.
- We applied a mix of 5.11 and 6N with 20 Vol to her roots.
- We applied a mix of 100.20, 100.21 and Clear to the ends.
- Once again, we took care to blend the two color areas to avoid an obvious line of demarcation.
- We processed and rinsed.
3. Violet and Silver Blended Root
Color by Elona Taki
- This look went viral on the internet.
- It is a stunning look which at the same time is surprisingly quite easy to wear - hence its popularity.
- Brilliant Blonde with 30 Vol to lift the hair all the way up to a very pale yellow.
- Violet mixed with 100.20 (2 parts 100.20, 1 part Violet) on the roots - 20 Vol Developer.
- 100.20 with 20 Vol on the ends.
- Taper between the 2 areas.
4. Blue and Silver Shadow Root
Color by Elona Taki
- Lift hair to very pale yellow with Brilliant Blonde
- Apply Blue with 20 Vol on the roots.
- Apply Silver Grey and 100.20 on the ends.
- Taper between the 2 areas.
5. Brown to Pearl Blonde Shadow Root
Watch This Step by Step Video of a Brown to Pearl Blonde Shadow Root:
- Apply 5.11 at the root and 6N away from the root, both mixed with 20 Vol
- Apply 100V (100.21) Intense Pearl Blonde Toner for lengths, also mixed with 20 Vol
- Purple Shampoo to tone.
SHADOW ROOT BRUSH
Use the Ugly Duckling Shadow Root Brush to achieve all the looks above!
[link_rewrite] => how-to-do-a-shadow-root-look [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => ) => Array ( [id_cms] => 72 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 8 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => How to Bleach and Tone Hair When You Have Dark Roots [meta_description] => How to professionally bleach and tone hair | Step by Step & Video Tutorial [meta_keywords] => toner for bleached hair,best hair toner,apply on wet or dry hair [content] =>
Oh My - What a Regrowth!
- Our model waited a little too long to come in. So we have a huge, extremely dark regrowth. although her lengths are super white blonde.
- This is going to be a little tricky, because there could be banding issues unless we do it right.
- In this tutorial Elona Taki is going to show us how to bleach and tone.
Step One - Lifting the Regrowth
- We mix Brilliant Blonde Lightener with 30 Vol. Make it fairly pasty, so a little less developer than usual, say 1 part lightener to 1.5 parts lightener.
- In this case as we want to deposit a lot of mixture and really saturate and lift this extremely dark regrowth.
- Start working on the back. With bleach you really need to work fast to give all the hair an equal processing time.
- So some hair stylists may decide to start off with 20 Vol on the back, and then move on to a fresh mix with 30 Vol on the top, as this area is going to get less processing time by the time you get around to the top.
- Alternatively, stay with the same mix, but move really really fast.
- Stay just a little (1/8 inch) away from the scalp, the mixture will travel up. The scalp creates heat, and this can lead to overprocessing on the root area, leading to banding issues.
- At the same time you need to be careful in this case not too overlap over the lengths as they are really really white.
- Place a lot of product on the hair with the brush. Hold it firmly and press because you do need to really saturate the product.
- Work section by section and re-saturate. Take down piece by piece and go over it one more time.
- Don't just leave your client and walk away, with bleach you need to check, check, check!.
- If you have overlapped with the lengths, now is your chance to take a towel and rinse off on those parts to avoid banding (bleaching onto already white hair will make it very very white) and even to avoid breakage.
- In this case, we took around 20 minutes of processing.
- Make sure you get it all the way up to a true pale yellow. Don't wash off too soon!
- You can rinse off a piece from the back to check.
Step Two Rinse and Apply Toner
- We are going to tone with Silver Blonde toner (10B) and Pearl Blonde toner (10V), mixed 50/50.
- We are going to use 10 Vol developer.
- We can apply these toners straight away on wet hair. You can even apply at the back wash if you prefer.
- After rinsing you can see that the heat of the scalp got the hair really blonde near the scalp, but lower down it is a little more yellow.
- So we are going to have to adjust with our toner application, and be sure to really apply and re-apply on the yellow parts.
- Our aim is to get the whole head right up to a beautiful white blonde hair color result.
- We section and apply, starting from the back. Remember to work really fast - this is important!
- Wait about 10 minutes and rinse.
- Wash and blow dry and you're done!
Final Result - Consistent Ultra White Blonde Hair with No Line of Demarcation
Watch Elona Taki's Full Video Tutorial Here:
- Brilliant Blonde Lightener
- Silver Blonde (10B) toner and Pearl Blonde (10V) toner
- 10 and 30 Vol Developer
Looking To Take Dark Hair Ultra White Blonde?
As a stylist, do you get requests from clients to bleach and lift dark hair to ultra white blonde?
It is possible to do this and maintain hair integrity at the same time provided you do it right.
Our model had very frizzy, long dark hair, and we succeeded in transforming her into an ultra white blonde look which she was very happy with and which she wore to her summer proms.
Hairdresser: Ashley Betancourt.
How To Bleach Dark Hair and Take it To Ultra White Blonde Step-By-Step (with Pictures and Video)
We bleached and toned our model's dark hair to this!
This was done in 1 sitting.
In this tutorial we will show you how to achieve this in your own salon.
1. What You Will Need
- A coloring bowl, clip and brushes
- Brilliant Blonde Lightener and 30 Vol Developer for lifting
- Intense Pearl Blonde Toner and 20 Vol Developer for toning
- Purple Shampoo to Finish and to Maintain
2. Mix the Lightener and the Developer in a Mixing Bowl
- Our recommended mix is 1 part Lightener to 2 parts Developer.
- This gives a mix which is fairly runny, which is what you need to saturate the hair properly and work fast.
- At the same time, it is not too runny that it will drip off he brush.
- As this model has fairly dark hair and we are looking to go ultra white blonde, we decided to start off on the lengths using 30 Vol Developer.
- The rule of thumb when using bleach is 20 Vol developer for 1-2 levels lift and for the root area, and 30 Vol for 3 levels lift and more.
- Section the hair and apply the mix thoroughly using a brush, starting from the back where the hair is the thickest.
- At this stage, apply only on the lengths and leave out the last inch closest to the root.
- Aim to deposit as much of the mix as possible. In this case, because of the hair frizziness, after applying with a brush, we re-applied with fingers using gloves.
3. Section the Hair and Apply The Bleach Mix
- This is long hair, and bleach needs to be applied as fast as possible so that all the hair lifts equally.
- So first section the hair into 4 large quadrants, and pin back 3 quadrants.
- Start off with one of the quadrants at the back.
- Section this one into very fine sections and start applying the bleach.
- At this stage, apply only on the lengths, leaving the root part (which processes faster) for later
- Work your way round the hair as quickly as you can.
4. Check The Hair And Re-Apply Fresh Bleach Mix If Necessary
- Once you have applied everywhere on the lengths, check how it is processing, especially at the back where you started.
- If the mixture has dried up and you have still not lifted to level 9/10. you will need to re-apply fresh mix.
- Check also for hair integrity. As long as the hair is still strong and has its natural elasticity, you're good.
- In the case of dark hair, virgin or healthy hair, after 30 minutes of processing you can rinse and re-apply one more time if you have not achieved level 9/10.
5. Get The Lengths Up to A Consistent Level 9/10
- Your aim should be to get the lengths up to this color:
- Notice that at this stage we still have not touched the root area:
6. Now Apply On The Root Area, Using 20 Vol Developer.
- In general, you need to be careful when applying bleach on the root area. A skin sensitivity test is always recommended before any bleach application.
- Heat from the scalp means that hair near the root always processes faster than anywhere else.
- That is why for the root area, we made a fresh mix using 20 Vol Developer.
- Because the lengths are all done, we were able to concentrate on the root area, and rinse as soon as we got the desired result.
7. Rinse And Apply Intense Pearl Blonde Toner
- After rinsing with water, apply Ugly Duckling Intense Pearl Blonde Toner with 20 Vol.
- The recommended mix is 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
- Once again, work fast, starting off with the lengths.
- Return to the root area afterwards.
- You will see the pigments of the toner will start to change. This is normal.
- Let the color process. Do not let the toner process more than around 10 minutes on the root area and more than 20 minutes overall.
8. Rinse with Purple Shampoo and/or Mask.
- Now rinse with Brilliant Blonde Purple shampoo and/or Mask.
- These products contain intense violet pigments which will help finish your hair color result and kill any residual yellowness.
- Because they are low pH, they also help to close the hair cuticle after the lightening and coloring.
9. Final Result.
10. Watch Full Video Tutorial Here:[link_rewrite] => how-to-bleach-dark-hair-to-ultra-white-blonde-step-by-step-with-pictures-and-video [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => ) => Array ( [id_cms] => 68 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 10 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => Which is the Best Bleach For Me? [meta_description] => Frequently Asked Questions About Hair Bleaching | Which Bleach for Which Type of Lifting [meta_keywords] => Color Washing,Color Stripping,Color Lifting [content] =>
"I am Trying to Get My Hair Like the Picture Below. Which is the Best Bleach For Me?"
Model: Mag Sam after using 3 products: Brilliant Blonde Bleach, Intense Pearl Blonde Toner & Purple Shampoo.
- We hear this question a lot!
- If you have dark or medium dark hair and you are trying to get your hair to something like the picture above, you will absolutely need to use a good quality lightener.
- You will also need good technique!
In this tutorial we will show you how to go about it.
Which Bleach Should I Use?
- If you need to lift hair by 3 or more levels, it is important that you use a bleach which is fast acting but at the same time controllable and safe.
- That is why we recommend Brilliant Blonde 8 Level Lift Dust Free Lightener.
- Brilliant Blonde has been formulated for dark bases. So
- It can easily lift up to 8 levels, from brown to the palest level 10.
- It is blue and dust-free.
- It mixes with 20 or 30 Vol developer into a creamy mix which is easy to apply quickly, so you can work quickly.
Which developer Should I Use With This Bleach?
- Check what your hair current color level is and what your desired hair color level is using this reckoner below.
- Subtract one from the other and you now know how many levels your need to lift.
- The rule is if you are looking to lighten 1-2 levels, you can use 20 Vol Developer.
- If you are looking to lighten 3 levels and more, use 30 Vol Developer.
- If you are applying near the root area, use 20 Vol Developer.
- So, if for example, you are a 5 Light Brown and you are looking to get your hair like the picture above (level 10), that would be a 5 level lift.
- You would need to use 30 Vol Developer for most of your hair.
- But you would still need to make a separate mix of 20 Vol for the root area.
What Mix Should I Use For This Bleach?
- Brilliant Blonde works best when the mixture is fairly runny.
- That is why we recommend a 1 part bleach to 2 part developer mix.
- This will give you a nice runny "wet" mix which is easy to apply and which will allow you to work fast.
- Also, when the bleach mixture dries out it stops working. This is why a relatively "wet" mixture is recommended.
- Mix together in a non-metallic bowl using a plastic whisk until you have a nice creamy consistency.
- Now you are ready to apply.
How Should I Apply This Bleach?
- Make fine sections, starting from the back, where the hair is the thickest.
- Take very thin sections and saturate heavily.
- Work your way around to the sides and the top until you have covered the whole head.
- Always avoid the last inch near the scalp. This part always lifts the quickest because of the heat of the scalp and because it is generally virgin hair.
- You can return to this part toward the end.
- Work fast. If you are working on very long hair, as you progress around, you will find that the last sections have had much less processing time than the first sections on which you applied.
- To some extent, the fact that you started at the back where hair is the thickest and slowest to lift will compensate.
- But if not, you may need to wash off the first sections first and let the later sections keep processing.
- Don't hesitate to make a fresh mix and re-apply on parts where the mixture looks like it is not lifting properly or is drying out.
- If you have different colored lengths with for example some parts orange, other parts dark black box-dyed, the darker parts will need more lightener applications and greater processing time.
- Once the hair looks like it is three quarters lifted, make a fresh mix, this time with 20 Vol (only use 20 Vol near the root area). Apply there and watch and wait.
How Long Should I Process the Bleach?
- In general, bleach does not have a fixed processing time and you need to be prepared to wash off as soon as you have got everything to a consistent level 10.
- The most common mistake stylists make is to rinse off too soon.
- If you are aiming for a really blonde look, you must lift until you get to level 10.
- Trust us, Brilliant Blonde will get your hair there provided you let it.
- The picture below shows what level 10 looks like:
Level 10 Hair
What About Toners? Aren't I Supposed to Apply A Toner?
- Yes you do need to apply a toner after bleaching.
- If this is a first time bleaching you will almost certainly still have a lot of yellow in your hair.
- We would suggest either Intense Pearl Blonde Toner or Intense Silver Blonde Toner.
- Make a mix with 20 Vol of 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
- Apply quickly, once again saturating the hair very intensively and applying first on the lengths and returning to the roots only at the end.
- Processing time for the toners is around 10-15 minutes.
- At the end of this time, you will see the hair shedding the last yellow and absorbing the grey and purple pigments from the toner.
- Rinse off with water.
How Do I Finish Up After Toning?
- To get your hair to a perfect ash blonde, follow up the toner with Purple Shampoo and Mask as we did with our model above.
- Rub and massage intensively to allow the pigment transfer.
- For the purple mask, you can let the product sit on the hair for 10 minutes using a plastic cap and some gentle heat.
- Then rinse and blow dry.
I'm trying to get my hair a platinum blonde but it has come out yellow blonde. What should I do?
- It sounds like you have not lifted quite enough, and you need a good quality toner.
- Check your hair, making sure it is still strong and has good elasticity.
- If is is in good condition, do one more lift using Brilliant Blonde and 20 Vol. Get it up to a true level 10.
- At this stage it will still have some yellow in it. This is normal.
- But then you now need to apply the Intense Pearl Blonde or Intense SIlver Blonde Toner.
- These toners contain booster for getting rid of the last yellow and their pigments will also neutralize the brassy pigments effectively.
- Then purple shampoo and mask as above.
The bleach brought my level 3-4 pre-colored hair to a level 9 with two processes and little damage. If I were to ever open my own salon, I would definitely consider using the entire UD line in my salon. There is simply nothing better. - Facebook Review.) => Array ( [id_cms] => 53 [id_cms_category] => 3 [position] => 11 [active] => 1 [indexation] => 1 [id_lang] => 1 [id_shop] => 1 [meta_title] => Argan Oil And Hair Color - The Ultimate Guide [meta_description] => Treatment Hair Color with Argan Oil [meta_keywords] => Hair Color,Argan Oil [content] =>
Why Use Argan Oil For Hair Color?
Argan Oil, sometimes known as Moroccan Oil, is a product of the Moroccan Argan tree. It has been called “Liquid Gold” by the haircare industry, because its benefits are truly amazing.
It is easily absorbed by the hair cuticles, nourishing dry hair and making hair shine with health and radiance.
It contains vitamin E and fatty acids and it helps to smooth even the frizziest of hair and it restores bounce, giving an immediate and dramatic impact on the hair.
Hair coloring using oxidative dyes, if done incorrectly, can impose stress on your hair.
But when Argan Oil is used in the coloring process, it penetrates the hair at the cortex level, giving profound benefits during and after the hair color process.
Benefits of Argan Oil When Coloring
1. Shinier Hair
The oil helps to close the hair cuticles after coloring. This makes the hair shaft shinier. After blow dry and brushing, the effect is even more pronounced.
2. Softer Hair
The Argan Oil also penetrates into the cortex during the coloring process. This makes the hair quality softer after the coloring.
3. Repairs Brittle Hair
Because the Argan Oil enters into the cortex during the coloring process, it "plumps" the hair from inside and makes the hair fibre, making it less brittle in the process. The Argan Oil helps repair the brittle parts, whether they occur on the ends, in the case of long hair, or mid-lengths, as is sometimes the case with permed or relaxed hair.
4. Makes Ends Stronger, Particularly on Long Hair
Women are growing their hair longer and longer these days. The end of the hair is the oldest part of the hair and as a result tends to be particularly thin and worn. A visit to the stylist and a regular trim at the ends s generally what women do about this. But Argan Oil-based color does act here and does the plumping here, making a visible difference. By using Ugly Duckling color, you can grow your hair longer and still keep the ends in good condition.
5. More Even Color Deposit
Because the hair shaft has been strengthened from the inside, the whole process of coloring works better. The natural pigments can be lightened at a more even rate, and re-pigmentation takes place in a more even way. Result: a more consistent, regular color, more uniform from roots to ends.
6. More Vibrant Color
Because the hair is in better condition, and because the color molecules are more evenly deposited, women who use Ugly Duckling Color on thair hair get a much more vibrant hair color result. Whether it is a rich brown, or an intense violet, or a true cold ash, the result is a true color that s richer, shinier and more vibrant.
To view the choice of hair color available with Argan oil, please visit our Shop Now Page.
Mixing Argan Oil into Color Applications
If you are looking for extra conditioning, you can mix Argan Oil into the hair color and chemical straightening or perming applications. This will give a spectacular boost in the degree of conditioning that you are giving your customer.
This is particularly recommended for bleach and perm applications.
We suggest adding around 15 ml, or 1 tablespoon of Argan oil into the mix of 1 Ugly Duckling hair color tube (3.5 oz) and 200 ml of developer (7 oz)[link_rewrite] => the-ultimate-guide-to-argan-oil-and-hair-color [buynowlink] => [facebookreview] => )) 1
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