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9.23 Extra Light Rose Beige Blonde - No Lightener Used

How to Color Hair Professionally Step by Step


Why should you use professional products when coloring?

Using a quality professional hair color line can significantly change the quality of the hair color results that you get.

It will allow you to access a very wide color pallette, with formulas made from the best and the latest pigments.

And this means that you can go for unique and sophisticated color results.

This is especially true if you are looking to lift the hair up to a consistent level 9 or 10 blonde.

And if you are serious about getting specific fashion results such as pearl blonde, silver grey, or white platinum blonde.

How should you use professional color?

In this blog, we are going to give you a step by step approach which even those new to hair coloring can follow.

We won't just stop at the basic aspects of hair coloring and application - important though they are.

We will also go into correct bleaching, which even some professional hair stylists don't know how to do.

We will look into when to start bleaching or coloring at the roots first and when to apply on the lengths first.

And we will also look into some toners and fashion colors that you can use.

Follow our recommendations, and you should find that you are able to significantly improve the quality of your hair coloring.

The hair color consultation process in the salon

The correct procedure in a salon always starts with a hair diagnosis.

During this process, the hairdresser opens up the hair, brushes it out and examines it carefully.

The hairdresser looks at the quality of the hair and tries to understand how many times it has been colored or bleached or permed.

And what type of products have been used in the past. In particular, which chemical treatments.

The hairdresser also examines the hair from root to ends, to see if there has been any damage or breakage or split ends.

It is at this point that the stylist examines the color of the hair from root to ends.

At the same time the stylist talks to the client and asks her what her color expectations are.

1. What to do before coloring the hair

Before Bleaching

Hair Segmented & Tied Up & Ready For Coloring. 

What should you do before coloring?

The answer is: "Nothing".

No coconut oil, no masks, no special preparatives. No shampoo, even.

Hair dyes and bleaches work best on dry, unwashed hair.

The oil from your client's scalp will protect it while it is being colored.

So leave the hair for a couple of days unwashed. 

Comb through gently before beginning to color.

Segment as in the picture below and tie up the ends with your clips.

That's it.

2. What level is your client's hair?

During the consultation, colorists need to make an accurate assessment of the client's hair color level.

Use the chart below to do that.

Let's say that your client's current hair level is blonde. That would be level 7.

hair color levels

Hair color levels

3. What level does your client want to be?

Next, you need to discuss with your client to find out what her color expectations are, and what color she is looking to have.

If necessary, get her to show a picture from instagram or the internet so you and she can be totally aligned not just at to the hair color level, but also the exact reflect.

So if your client wants to be level 10 Extra Light Blonde, then that's level 10.

Since we worked out that her current hair level is 7, that means that you are going to need to lift the hair by 3 levels: 10 minus 7.

The number of levels that you need to lift the hair by is going to determine your developer choice.

Plus whether or not you need to use bleach.

4. Which developer strength do you need to use?

Now that you know how many levels you need to lift, you need to follow the rules below to decide on your developer choice.

1 level lift: use your target color with 20 Vol developer

2 levels lift: use your target color with 30 Vol developer

3 levels lift and more : use bleach first, then color or tone.

These are the rules and you need to stick to them.

So in the case above, where our client was level 7 and looking to go level 10 blonde, we would use bleach first to get the hair up to level 10.

Then we would tone the hair.

Such a procedure is a totally standard hair coloring procedure in the salon and should not shock any stylist.

It's what as known as double process coloring. Bleaching parts or all of the hair and then coloring or toning it.

5. Roots first or ends first?

Hair color levels

Hair which is darker at the regrowth than the ends.

During your anlysis of the hair coloring level of your client, remember that the hair color can be very different at the root area, on the mid-lengths and at ends. 

For example the root regrowth in the case above is level 7.

But the ends have been bleached in the past and are level 9/10.

This is very common - for obvious reasons.

The ends in the picture above are at least 2 years old, and they would have been bleached and colored several times during that time.

Plus, hair is thinner at the ends.

So in this case, what we will need to do is we apply different strategies to different parts of the hair.

Since we are want to get her whole head to level 10, we would first apply bleach and 20 Vol to the root area only first.

Since they are level 7, we could get that to level 10 quite quickly - the heat from the scalp would of course help.

Then we would extend that bleach mix (apply fresh mix, in other words) to the mid-lengths.

Then we would rinse the entire head. In doing so we would have a full head of consistent level 10 hair.

At that point we would tone.


6. Section the hair correctly to prepare for coloring

Before you make your mix, you need to get the hair ready so that there is no time wasted.

Separate the hair into big sections. Tie up sections with a clip.

Leave one section (usually the lower back section) down.

This will be the section on which you will start to apply color. 

Hair all tied up neatly

Section hair into large sections and pin up.

7. How much developer do you need to use?

We already worked out (see section 4) which developer strength we need to use and whether we need to use bleach not.

Now we to figure out how much developer to use.

Follow the instructions below in order to make your color and bleach mixes right:

For most Ugly Duckling hair color, the correct mix is 1 part hair dye to 1 part developer.

For high lift Ugly Duckling colors, the correct mix is 1 part hair dye to 2 parts developer.

For Ugly Duckling cream-based toners, the correct mix is also 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.

For Ugly Duckling's liquid gloss toners, the correct mix is 1 part toner to 1 part developer.

For Ugly Duckling bleaches, the mix is 1 part bleach to 2 parts developer.

Never put in more developer in order to get more lift.

All color brands including ours are formulated to work well with a certain mix ratio and you should stick to that.

8. Make Your Mix of Product and Developer.

The best way is to get your mixes right is to use kitchen scales.

This is especially true if you are a new colorist.

Place the empty bowl or applicator bottle on the scale and set to zero.

Squeeze or pour in your hair color or toner or bleach and write down how much you put down.

Then set the scale to zero once more.

Then pour in the correct amount of developer.

If it's a 1 + 1 mix you are aiming at, you will be pouring in the same amount as earlier.

If it's a 1+2 mix then you need to pour in double the amount of developer.

When making cream color or bleach mixes, use a plastic coloring bowl.

Keep stirring with a whisk or a coloring brush until the mix is a smooth, creamy paste.

When making mixes with Ugly Duckling's liquid toner Blondify, just use an applicator bottle and shake.

You will find that it is quite easy to produce a nice gel-like consistency which will pour over the hair easily.

This is what an Ugly Duckling cream color color and developer mix looks like:

Color & Developer Mix

Ugly Duckling cream color and developer mix. 

This is what a mix of Blondify liquid toner and developer looks like as it comes out of the applicator bottle:

Blondify liquid toner and developer mix

Ugly Duckling Liquid toner and developer mix

9. Applying the product correctly

In order to get the most vibrant color possible, you must use enough product mix and you must saturate the hair properly.

In other words, you need to make sure that the hair comes into contact with plenty of product and is literally drenched with this product.

When applying cream based color, it is a good idea to apply twice.

Once using the brush, segmenting finely, and a second time with fingers using gloves, rubbing in the product really well into the hair as you do.

For bleach applications, it is really important that the bleach mix is nice and wet, as bleaches have a habit of drying out as soon as they are applied. 

Here again, if you see that the bleach mix is drying out on the hair before it has had a chance to lift sufficiently, apply some more bleach mix.

When using liquid toner mixes, rub the mix in thoroughly with your fingers using gloves.

Applying color

It is a good idea to do a second application, rubbing in the color mix with fingers (using gloves)

10. Respect the processing time

Color processing on hair

Ugly Duckling Ruby Red processing on the hair

For most colors, the processing time is 30 minutes.

For toners, rinse off when the correct color appears (around 10-15 minutes is normal).

For high lift colors: up to 40 minutes. 

Don't over process. You won't get good results that way.

Be aware that hair at the scalp processes faster than anywhere else due to the heat of the scalp. 

You need to watch this area when going lighter.

Be prepared to rinse as soon as this area looks done, even if this is before the 30 minutes are up.

11. Emulsify

Hair Emulsification

A few drops of water, and rub once again. Only rinse after you have done this.

Before rinsing, add a little water to the color and rub at the scalp area.

Then rub well around the hairline first, then middle and nape.

This process is known as emulsification.

It helps lock in the color into the hair, and gives you really vibrant, long-lasting color results plus hair that feels full and very well conditioned.

12. How to use & apply bleach 

We saw earlier that if any part of your hair needs to be lifted by more than 3 levels, you need to use bleach first.

Some hair stylists are scared of using bleach.

But the reality is that quality bleach is any hairdresser's friend.

We would suggest you use Ugly Duckling bleaches: either Brilliant Blonde or Brilliant Blondexx.

Brilliant Blonde should be your go-to bleach if you are planning to work with really dark, stubborn hair, Asian hair.

Brilliant Blondexx contains Bond Protect and has amazing protection thanks to Bond Protect, and lifts by 7 levels.

Brilliant Blondexx

Brilliant Blondexx with Bond Protect.

Whichever Ugly Duckling bleach you use, the mix is the same: 1 part bleach to 2 parts developer.

20 Vol developer for 1-3 levels lift and 30 Vol developer for more than 3 levels or stubborn hair.

Always use 20 Vol developer on the root area and for second bleach applications (when you did not get enough lift the first time).

Use the scoop and weighing scales and mix with a whisk until you get a really smooth consistency.

This is what a bleach and developer mix looks like when you are working with Brilliant Blondexx:

Bleach and developer mix

Ugly Duckling Brilliant Blondexx Bleach with developer

When applying the bleach, no half-hearted steps please!

You have to really smother the hair and make the hair really moist with the mix.

Saturate it, in other words.

Otherwise you won't get the lift.

Leave the bleach on and after 15 minutes, check.

Apply some more at the 15 minute mark if there are parts of the hair which are still looking very warm and brassy.

Rinse only when you get to very very pale yellow.

As in the picture below:

Hair after bleaching should look like this

This is what the hair should look like after bleaching

13. Finish with an acidic (low pH) shampoo

Use an acidic shampoo to close off the coloring or bleaching process.

This will help close the hair cuticle, lock in the color and return the hair to its natural pH level. 

Don't assume all professional shampoo and mask is acidic  You will need to check on the label.

All Ugly Duckling shampoos are acidic and will help close the hair cuticle after coloring and bleaching as well as maintain it frizz-free.

If you are coloring blonde, use Ugly Duckling's Purple Shampoo and Mask to remove any remaining yellow in the hair.

For maintaining bleached hair or hair that is fragile, use Ugly Duckling's Brilliant Blondexx Shampoo and Treatment with Bond Protect.

14. The best toners to use for lifting and going blonde

For lifting and toning, we suggest you use Ugly Duckling's permanent cream based toners:

Intense Pearl Blonde 100V

Intense Silver Blonde 100B

Pearl Blonde 10V

Silver Blonde 10B

The above toners are some of the best selling Ugly Duckling products.

They produce really excellent, consistent cold blonde results.

Use the above toners with 20 Vol after bleaching first, and you will get excellent results.


Hair by Elona Taki

15. The best toners for toning hair ash blonde without lifting the base

When you need to tone and refresh blonde highlights without touching the dark hair underneath in any way, use Blondify.

These are ammonia-free liquid gloss toners which can be used with with either 10 or 20 Vol developer.

They pare very fast acting and process in just 10 minutes.

Which means that they don't lift the base in any way.

Like all of Ugly Duckling toners, they are based on color wheel principles.

Use 010A Natural Ash Blonde toner to color correct hair which is brassy and yellow-orange.

Use 010V Natural Violet Blonde toner to color correct hair which is pure yellow.



Q: Which are Ugly Duckling Best Selling Blonding Colors & Toners?

Intense Pearl Blonde 100V

Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V on pre-lightened hair.

Pearl Blonde Toner 10V

Pearl Blonde Toner 10V on pre-lightened hair.

Silver Grey

Silver Grey on pre-lightened Hair

Extra Cold Ash Blonde 10.1b

Extra Cold Ash Blonde 10.1b on pre-lightened hair.

Q: Which are Ugly Duckling Best Selling Fashion Colors?

Rose Gold

Rose Gold

Intense Violet Blonde 7.22

Intense Violet Blonde 7.22/7VV

Ruby Red

Ruby Red

Violet Root & Silver

Violet & Intense Silver Blonde 


Hair by Elona Taki

Products Used:

  • Brilliant Blonde Lightener for re-growth
  • Violet with Intense Silver Blonde 100B for root area
  • Intense Silver Blonde 100B for lengths
  • 20 Vol Developer


First decide how many levels you need to lift your client's hair by.

If it's 3 levels or more, you will need to use bleach first, then tone.

Otherwise you will not get true blonde results, nor will you kill yellow, orange and brass.

Make the right developer choice for your colors and your bleaches and get the mix right.

Segment the hair and apply in such a way that you really saturate the hair.

The hair needs to be literally drenched in your mixture.

Wait the right amount of time.

Do your checks, then rinse with an acidic shampoo.

About the author

Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.

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