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Pre-lightened hair level 10

The Definitive Guide to Using Hair Toners - From Brassy to Ash Blonde

Examples of Hair Toned with Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V.

Intense Pearl Blonde

Hair by Cody Darnell

Toned with 100V

Hair by hairbyjose

Example of Hair Toned with Intense Silver Blonde 100B

Intense Silver Blonde

Hair by Nina Sukhovetskaya

Examples of Hair Toned with No-Lift Pearl Blonde Toner 10V

Pearl Blonde Toner 10V

Hair by Elona Taki

Hair by Elona Taki

Follow this 3 Step Technique To Achieve Toning Perfection. 


  • First, lift any part of the hair that is too dark to a level 9 or level 10 before you do any toning. Good consistent pre-lightening is really essential for good toning!
  • Use our new Brilliant Blondexx Bond Protect Lightener with 20 Vol or 30 Vol. Developer (20 Vol only near the root).
  • Make a mix of 1 part lightener to 2 parts developer and really saturate the dark regrowth area or the whole head depending on what needs lifting.
  • Start applying at the back in case of full head applications.
  • In the case of regrowth applications apply on the dark regrowth first. Then stretch to other areas if you feel they also need further lifting.
  • The goal is to lift the hair evenly and consistently all the way up to level 10 for best results (see pictures below for hair that has been correctly pre-lightened)
  • A common mistake is to not lift sufficiently - don't do this or you won't get a really nice result!
  • Once you have done this, you are ready to tone.

Here is a client whose dark regrowth we lifted and prepared for toning:

Before Bleaching: Very Dark Regrowth, Blonde Ends

 Bleach Hair Level 10

After Bleaching: Dark Regrowth lifted and equalized with ends. Hair is at Level 10.

Hair Before & After: Ashley


  • Choose your Ugly Duckling toner from the Ugly Duckling toners below.
  • Ugly Duckling toners are very very fast acting, and typically neutralize in around 10 minutes. So you do need to be alert and watch while they are on processing and be prepared to rinse when done.
  • Only use 10 Vol developer if you have really lifted well and you are confident that there is minimal yellow left.
  • Otherwise, use with 20 Vol developer for best results. You will get better release of yellow pigments and better toning that way. 
  • Apply on towel dried hair. It can be still wet. Just make sure there is no excess moisture. 
  • Mix 1 part of your chosen Ugly Duckling toner with 2 parts developer.
  • Section the hair starting from the back, using fine sections. 
  • Start applying wherever the hair is the most yellow or the most brassy.
  • Work fast because the toner works fast and you want to give your whole head an even processing time.
  • Leave out the last inch nearest the roots when you apply, and return to this section at the end. Hair processes faster on the root area due to the heat of the scalp.
  • As you apply, you will see the hair turn grey with a purple or grey or blue hue.
  • This is normal, it shows that the toner is doing its job of neutralizing yellow and brassiness. 
  • Normally 10-15 minutes is enough.
  • Once again, remember to watch the roots in particular carefully - do not over-process there.

Ugly Duckling Toner Mix

A mix of Ugly Duckling Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V and 20 Vol. A fairly runny mix will allow you to work faster. Which is what you need.


  • Use the chart below to figure out which Ugly Duckling toner to use:

Hair Color Level

  • Ugly Duckling has 2 types of toners: Intense Toners and No-lift toners.
  • If your hair is either level 9 or level 10 it means that there is minimal yellow left. In which case you can use use Ugly Duckling No-Lift Toners
  • If your hair is either level 7 or level 8, it means that you still have yellow in your hair which you need to get rid of. in this case, it would be better to use Ugly Duckling Intense Toners.
  • If your hair is darker than level 7, eg level 5 or level 6, it means that your hair is too dark and brassy to use toners directly. Use Brilliant Blondexx Bleach first, then tone with Ugly Duckling intense toners
  • If you have low lights that you wish to keep, then you must use the No-Lift Toners.
Intense Silver Blonde 100.20 Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100.21 Intense Silver Blonde Toner 100B
Silver Blonde Toner Pearl Blonde Toner 10V (No-Lift) Pearl Blonde Toner Silver Blonde Toner 10B (No-Lift)


  • In addition the following colors also give excellent results and very unique color effects when used after pre-lightening: 
  • The Blue Based Blonde Colors, especially Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde 10.1b and Very Light Cold Ash Blonde 9.1b
  • The Greys: Silver Grey, Smoky Blue Grey and Metallic Grey
  • Violet: 10.2 Extra Light Cool Blonde
  • These colors are better processed for the full 30 minutes, you will get better color results that way.
10.1b Extra Cold Ash Blonde Extra Cold Ash Blonde 10.1b Very Light Cold Ash Blonde 9.1b Very Light Cold Ash Blonde 9.1b Silver Grey Silver Grey
Smoky Blue Grey Smoky Blue Grey Metallic Grey Metallic Grey Extra Light Cool BlondeExtra Light Cool Blonde 10.2

Silver GreySmoky Blue GreyMetallic Grey

Silver Grey, Smoky Blue Grey & Metallic Grey


  • Intense Violet Blonde 7.22
  • Purple Grey
Purple GreyPurple Grey 7VV/7.227VV/7.22
  • These colors contain very powerful violet and purple pigments and produce very beautiful results either on their own or when mixed with other toners.

 Pearl Blonde and 7.22 Mixed

Pearl Blonde 10V Mixed with 7.22

Purple Grey

Purple Grey 


  • Rinse hair with Purple Shampoo, massaging thoroughly for 5 minutes as you do.
  • Then apply Purple Mask.
  • Leave the mask in the hair for 10 minutes.
  • Ugly Duckling's Purple Shampoo and Mask contain very intense pigments.
  • These will neutralize any remaining yellow and take your hair to ultra white blonde.
  • They are also low pH and will help to close the hair cuticle after the lightening and toning process.
  • Only use Purple Shampoo and Mask after toners, not after regular blonde colors (10.1b, 9.1b, Silver Grey, Smoky Blue Grey, Metallic Grey, 10.2 etc)
  • This is because you will lose the unique vibrancy of the above colors if you put purple shampoo on top!

Purple Mask

Learn More About Ugly Duckling Purple Mask Here


Afer toning

After toning: Hair by Ashley

Toner Used: Extra Light Cool Blonde 10.2



Q. What Developer Should I Use with Toner?

A. We generally recommend 20 Vol developer, mixed in a ratio of 1 part toner to 2 parts developer. This will allow you to open the hair cuticle more, kick out more of the unwanted yellow, and achieve color vibrancy and long lasting ashy results.

Only use 10 Vol developer when you have lightened the hair to very very pale yellow, level 10. (see below). Here, 10 Vol would be enough. Otherwise, stick with 20 Vol.

Level 10 lightening

A case where 10 Vol developer would be enough

Q. Can I Use Toner Without Developer?

A. No you can't. All Ugly Duckling toners require developer. 

Q. Can I Use Toner with a No-Lift Developer?

A. If you have low lights that you don't want to get lifted, use our no-lift toners with 20 Vol developer for a short processing time and you should be OK. 

Q. Do you apply toners on wet or dry hair?

A. You can apply Ugly Duckling toners to wet or dry hair. If you have bleached your hair prior to toning, no need to blow dry. Just towel dry to get rid of any excess moisture.

Q. How often do you need to apply toner?

A. Ugly Duckling colors are quite vibrant, but all hair color fades. So very probably your toned hair will also fade and require re-toning every 6 weeks or so. You may just need a no-lift toner at this point in time.

Q. Can't I just use your Purple Shampoo and Mask to tone?

A. Yes purple shampoos and masks do tone, but they are really more correctly viewed as maintenance products. You will get better results if you tone first, then use Purple Shampoo and Mask. 

Q. Can I mix a toner with a regular color?

A. Yes you can do that. All Ugly Duckling colors are inter-mixable.

Q. I want to bump up the level by one when I am toning. What should I do?

Use our intense toners (either pearl or silver) with 20 Vol and mix in Clear with it 50/50.

Q. Do hair toners damage the hair?

A. Not if you use them correctly.