How To Tone Hair | Brassy to Ash Blonde

Bleach and Toner - Before And After

Bleach and Toner - Before And After

Looking for a Toner That Will Take Out Yellowness and Brassiness? Here's What You Need to Do!

STEP 1 - LIFTING THE BASE

• First you need to lift any part of the hair that is too dark to a level 9 first.
• In both the cases above the client had regrowth that needed lifting.
• We used Brilliant Blonde Lightener with 30 Vol, as the extent of lifting required was more than 3 levels.
• Make a mix of 1 part lightener to 2 parts developer and really saturate the dark hair if you need a strong lift.
• Start applying at the back first.
• After application with a brush, do a second application. Try and get as much product onto the hair as possible.
• The place where you need to be extra careful is near the scalp. Apply near the scalp area the very last. 
• The heat from the scalp accelerates the lifting, so you need to apply there at the end.
• Rinse as soon as the hair on the scalp has lifted to the correct level.
• Watch hair as it lifts and rinse only when it gets to at near level 10: a very pale yellow color - see below.
• If the product has dried out on the hair or if 30 minutes has elapsed and you have still not reached level 10, you need to rinse off and repeat the process with a fresh mix.
• When doing so, bump down the developer strength by one level (eg if you were using 30 Vol, this time use 20 Vol)

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STEP 2 - TONING

• Choose your toner from the Ugly Duckling toners below.
• Ugly Duckling toners are very fast acting, and typically neutralize in around 10 minutes.
• Use with 10 or 20 Vol developer.
• Apply on towel dried hair. It can be still wet. Just make sure there is no excess moisture. 
• Mix 1 part of your chosen Ugly Duckling toner with 2 parts 10 or 20 Vol developer.
• Only use 10 Vol developer if you have successfully lifted hair to a level 10.
• Otherwise use 20 Vol, you will get better release of yellow pigments and better toning that way.
• Section the hair starting from the back, using fine sections and apply quickly because the toner works fast and you want to give your whole head an even processing time.
• Leave out the last inch nearest the roots when you apply, and return to this section at the end (hair processes faster on the root area).
• As you apply, you will see the hair turn grey with a purple hue. This is normal, this shows that the toner is doing its job of neutralizing yellow and brassiness. 
• Normally 10-15 minutes is enough. Once again, remember to watch the roots in particular carefully.

WHICH UGLY DUCKLING TONER?

• Ugly Duckling has 2 types of toners: Intense Toners and No-lift toners.
• If this is a first time toning and your hair is pretty brassy, we recommend the Intense Toners as they contain extra boost which releases yellow from your brassy hair.
• If it is a repeat application or you are confident that you have lifted properly to pale yellow, use the No-Lift Toners
• Also, if you have low lights that you wish to keep, use the No-Lift Toners.

Intense Silver Blonde Toner 100.20 

Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100.21

Silver Blonde Toner (No-Lift)

Pearl Blonde Toner (No-Lift)

What the hair looks like when toner has been applied

STEP 3 - RINSE WITH PURPLE SHAMPOO & MASK

• Rinse hair with Purple Shampoo, massaging thoroughly for 5 minutes as you do.
• Then apply Purple Mask.
• Leave the mask in the hair for 10 minutes.
• Ugly Duckling's Purple Shampoo and Mask contain very intense pigments.
• These will neutralize any remaining yellow and take your hair to ultra white blonde.
• They are also low pH and will help to close the hair cuticle after the lightening and toning process.

FINAL RESULT

WATCH THIS VIDEO TO SEE BLEACHING AND TONING TO ULTRA WHITE BLONDE:

Products Used in Video:

• Brilliant Blonde Lightener
• Pearl Blonde Toner 10V
• Developer