Why Does My Blonde Hair Go Brassy – And How Do I Fix It?

Blonde hair often turns brassy.

In this article we are going to break down why it happens.

And we're going to give you some techniques to fix the problem.

Some of these methods will be really simple and require little to no hairdressing ability.

Other methods will involve lifting and toning.

Which method you use will depend on exactly what your hair goals are.

Let's start!

Why does Blonde Hair Turn Brassy

Blonde hair has a tendency to go brassy because over time, cool pigments in the hair fade or are destroyed more easily when exposed to sunlight.

In the process, this leaves the naturally warm yellow–orange underlying pigment more visible.

This is a totally natural process.

If you are a blonde and have spent some time on the beach or a very sunny place you will surely have noticed this.

Why Colored or Bleached Blonde Hair Turns Brassy Especially Fast

Blonde hair that has been bleached or colored is particularly susceptible to going brassy.

This is because when you bleach or otherwise lighten hair, underlying warm pigments—reds, oranges, and yellows—inevitably get exposed during the hair lightening process.

Even though hairdressers can tone over these warm pigments and cover them, over time the warm pigments do get exposed once again.

Step 1: Lift to the Right Level with Brilliant Blondexx Bleach

Use the above chart to determine what level your hair is at.

Use the chart above to help you determine what level your hair is it.

To lift the hair to level 10 you need a good bleach.

We would suggest you use Brilliant Blondexx Bleach.

It gives a very controlled lift all the way up to level 10.

Brilliant Blondexx contains Bond Protection which will help strengthen the hair fiber while you lift the hair.

Which in turn will prevent the hair turning warm too soon.

Use it with Ugly Duckling's 20 Vol Premium Developer,. This also contains Bond Protect.

How to apply your bleach

1. Section hair into four quadrants.
2. Apply to new growth first.
3. Extend to lengths after 20 minutes for previously colored hair.
4. Check every 10 minutes post-midway; stop when the hair at very light pale yellow level 10.
5. Rinse thoroughly with cool water; do not shampoo yet.

This ensures you hit the correct underlying level for toning success.

Your hair should be looking like this after bleaching

Choose The Right Toner For Your Hair

If you have followed step 1 correctly, your hair should be at a true level 10, a very very pale yellow.

Like the inside of a banana peel.

And now you are going to tone it.

Toning will take away even this yellowness and give the hair a rich 3D blonde color which will be beautiful and well-balanced.

We would suggest you use one of the following toners:

To tone hair blonde and get regular lift at the same time

Use any of the toners below. Each toner has a different reflect, so choose the one that accords with your hair goals or that of your client:

Silver Blonde 10B (a blue based blonde)

Result after applying 10B. Hair by Elona Taki.

Extra Light Platinum Cool Blonde 10.2 (purple based blonde)

10.1b (Extra light Blue based Blonde)

Result after applying 10.1b. Hair by Brittney Perez.

For ammonia-free and very gentle toning, use one of these toners:

Natural Ash Blonde 010A

Natural Violet Blonde 010V

Process all these toners for 20 minutes with 20 Vol developer, no heat, on towel-dried hair.

We would recommend you use our Premium 20 Vol developer.

It is enriched with Bond Protect.

To tone with a high lifting toner

If for some reason you were not successful with the bleaching (or if you wish to prefer avoid bleaching altogether), there is one solution:

Use an Ugly Duckling toner with extra lift. Only Ugly Duckling has this technology.

Both the toners below have added lift built in. Which means that they lift about 2 levels and tone at the same time.

Intense Pearl Blonde 100V (violet based)

Intense Silver Blonde 100B (blue based).

Result after bleaching dark roots with Ugly Duckling bleach and toning with Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V.

Hair by Elona Taki

Step 3: Prevent Re-Brassing with Brilliant Blondexx Aftercare

There are two hair care ranges we would recommend:

Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo and Mask

Even after bleaching and toning, your hair will still have a tendency for the brass to return when the hair cuticle lifts from washing, exposing pigments again.

That's where Brilliant Blonde Shampoo and Mask come in. Both contain purple pigments and will help keep this brassiness away.

These products, like all Ugly Duckling hair care, are sulfate-free and are acidic. Which means that they will help close the cuticle, reduce hair frizziness and split ends.

And most importantly: in spite of the purple pigments, they do not stain.

Brilliant Blondexx Shampoo and Mask

In addition to keeping the warmth away, blonde hair which has been bleached and toned needs to be strengthened.

For that you should use Brilliant Blondexx Shampoo and Mask.

Brilliant Blondexx Shampoo provides Sulfate-free, color-safe cleansing with Bond Protect built in. Use 2-3 times weekly to make your hair stronger and more resistant to going brassy.

Brilliant Blondexx Mask contains the same ingredients but in greater concentration.  Apply weekly and leave in the hair for around 10 minutes. Then rise.

Both products will help seal the hair cuticle, reduces porosity by 40%, and boost shine. You will also get brass reduction over time.