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How to bleach Dark Roots Without Banding & Breakage

BY SALLY MADISON
NATIONAL COLOR TRAINER

In This tutorial, we are going to learn how you should approach ultra dark roots when the rest of the hair is already blonde. Without getting any banding or breakage.

STEP ONE: MAKE YOUR BLEACH MIXTURE

  • In this tutorial we used Brilliant Blonde Lightener & 30 Vol developer.
  • Brilliant Blonde is a blue based bleach and has been designed for very dark bases.
  • It has particularly fast & effective lifting capabilities.
  • We are going to mix with 30 Vol developer.
  • We will need to work super fast because of the strength of the formulation plus the fact that we are working so near to the scalp.

Dark Regrowth

Dark Regrowth Desperately Needing to be Fixed

Bleach Mixture

Bleach & Developer Mix: Not too runny, not too thick.

STEP TWO: APPLY TO THE ROOT AREA

  • Apply the mixture to the root area.
  • If we apply right onto the scalp area, the heat will cause that part to be whiter than the rest & we will end up with a visible line of demarcation.
  • On the other hand, if we overlap with the white hair, that could lead to breakage.
  • So it's a fine line between the two. Apply as near as you can to the scalp & work as fast as you can.
  • You can always wipe back any sections where you may have overlapped.
  • Make sure you press well with the brush. Your goal must be to saturate that area as much as you can. You need it to come into a lot of contact with the bleach mixture, otherwise you won't get the lift.

Apply to the Root Area

Apply to the root area

Applying to Regrowth Area

Make sure you press on the brush & saturate well.

Re-apply bleach

Re-apply bleach if necessary to make sure you have put enough product on the area which needs lifting

STEP THREE: CHECK & RINSE WHEN THE HAIR IS LEVEL 10

  • The real art is knowing when to rinse.
  • Look at the first picture below - this is NOT yet ready for rinsing. It may look pale yellow but once you wash it will be more like orange - yellow. Which is not good when you are trying to get to white blonde.
  • Look at the second picture. That is where you need the hair to be when you are ready to rinse.

Not ready

Hair still too yellow - Do not rinse this yet!

Ready to rinse

This is whiter...

STEP FOUR: APPLY TONER

  • After rinsing we see that the hair is super white right near the scalp - that scalp heat issue is hard to avoid. It will happen.
  • On the other hand the rest of the regrowth is still rather yellow. Very yellow.
  • We are going to use a mixture of silver blonde (10B) and pearl blonde toners (10V). Both from Ugly Duckling.
  • These are no lift toners packed with blue and purple pigments and are excellent for neutralizing yellow.
  • There is literally nothing more powerful under the sun.
  • We mix them with 20 Vol.
  • After 15 minutes of processing, we extend the toner to the ends.
  • You can see that the pigments in the toners are already taking effect and are turning the hair blue, purple and grey.
  • Rinse when done.
  • You can see the perfect white blonde results that we got.

Hair after rinsing

After rinsing - see how white it is near the scalp, whereas the rest of the regrowth is rather yellow.

Apply toner

Apply toner from the back

Extend toner

Rub in toner a second time and extend - you can see the purple & blue

After toning - Final Result

The Final Result.

Hair by Elona Taki.

WATCH VIDEO TUTORIAL NOW:

About the author

Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.

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