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Home Blog How to bleach hair without damaging it or breaking it: a stylist's guide

How to bleach hair without damaging it or breaking it: a stylist's guide


Bleaching hair without damage

As a stylist, achieving stunning hair transformations while maintaining the health and integrity of your client's hair is a top priority.

Bleaching hair is a common technique to create light and vibrant looks, but it comes with potential risks of damage.

In this guide, we'll explore the key factors that contribute to successful and damage-free hair bleaching.

Quality Matters: not all bleaches are equal

When it comes to bleaching hair, the quality of the bleach product matters significantly.

No two bleaches are the same, and using a high-quality bleach can make a world of difference in the final result and the condition of the hair.

High-quality bleaches typically contain superior ingredients that minimize damage while effectively lifting the hair color. 

Brilliant Blondexx Bleach

Brilliant Blondexx Bleach  - built with Plex Technology

We do suggest for that reason that you use Ugly Duckling’s Brilliant Blondexx.

It is built with Plex technology, meaning that it protects the hair while it’s lifting.

We’ll discuss several other advantages of this bleach during the course of this article.

Fast bleaching for minimal exposure

The second thing to realize about bleaching hair is that the speed at which the process is carried out is really important.

Using a fast-acting bleach is essential to prevent the mixture from sitting on the hair for extended periods.

The longer the bleach is left on the hair, the greater the risk of damage.

Fast acting bleaches allow for efficient color lifting without overexposing the hair to the chemicals.

This is where you will really notice the difference with Brilliant Blondexx.

It can take hair from dark to blonde very quickly (and safely).

Using a weaker developer 

20 Vol developer

20 Vol developer can lift up to 3 levels with Brilliant Blondexx

Choosing the right developer strength is another crucial consideration when aiming to bleach hair without causing damage.

Fast bleaches such as Brilliant Blondexx have been designed to allow you to use 20 and 30 Vol developers only.

Nothing stronger than that is necessary or even recommended.

Thus minimizing the potential for over-processing and harm.

A weaker developer, when combined with a quick-acting bleach, ensures that the hair is lightened effectively while maintaining its structural integrity.

The rules for developer use with Brilliant Blondexx are as follows:

  • Use 20 Vol for up to 3 levels lift, and always for the root area as well as for second applications on the lengths made during bleaching.
  • Use 30 Vol for greater than 3 levels lift and for color correction and removal - but never on the root area.

Avoiding overlapping onto pre-bleached areas

Bleaching roots without overlapping

When bleaching roots, make sure you do not overlap onto areas which don't require bleaching

One common pitfall in hair bleaching is overlapping onto areas of the hair that have already been lightened.

This mistake can lead to uneven color results and increased damage.

To prevent this, carefully section the hair and work methodically.

Ensure that you maintain clear boundaries between previously bleached sections and untouched hair to achieve consistent and damage-free results.

Do your root bleaching, for example, as in the picture above: do not put bleach onto areas that don't need it.

Incidentally, if you have overlapped by mistake - don't panic. Just wipe back with a wet cloth during processing and it will be fine.

Plex technology: a revolution in hair care

Plex Technology

Hair that has been correctly bleached and is in great health.

Hair by Elona Taki

Plex technology has revolutionized the hair care industry, especially in the context of hair bleaching.

These products, often referred to as bond builders or bond multipliers, are designed to protect and strengthen the hair's internal structure during chemical processes.

They work by creating bonds within the hair shaft, helping to prevent damage and breakage.

When bleaching hair, incorporating a plex treatment into the process can significantly enhance the results.

Plex products help to maintain the hair's integrity by fortifying its internal bonds, which are often compromised during bleaching.

This results in hair that looks and feels healthier even after a potentially damaging chemical treatment.

After bleach haircare with Plex technology

Brilliant Blondexx Mask

Brilliant Blondexx Mask

Lastly, a point about haircare after bleaching: don't neglect to use Plex technology here also.

It will help you maintain the strength of your bleached hair and keep it in good shape.

Use Brilliant Blondexx shampoo and mask at least once a week to maintain.

Not only do the formulas contain Plex (Bond Protect). They are also sulfate-free and acidic.


Achieving beautiful, lightened hair doesn't have to come at the cost of its health.

As a stylist, it's your responsibility to choose high-quality bleach products, work efficiently with fast-acting bleaches and weaker developers, and avoid overlapping onto previously lightened areas.

Embracing Plex technology can take your hair bleaching game to the next level by safeguarding the hair's internal structure.

With these strategies in mind, you can master the art of hair bleaching while prioritizing the health and beauty of your clients' hair.

About the author

Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.

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