How do you get Yellow Hair Ashy Blonde?
Getting yellow hair to ash blonde is one of the most common objectives for any stylist.
These days most customers just do not tolerate "yellow blonde" any more. They want you to get their hair ashy blonde.
In this blog post, we'll explain exactly how you need to go about it.
First, let's do the basics. A color consultation followed by a bleaching of the dark areas.
First: Do a hair color consultation
The first step is to look at your client's hair and do a careful color consultation.
What color is your client's hair? Refer to the charts below and try and be accurate in your assessment.
Use this chart for assessing the level of the regrowth or other non-lightened parts of the hair.
Use this chart for assessing lightened or bleached or previously colored parts of the hair:
Be aware the the hair regrowth and the lengths can be very different, as you can see in the picture below:
Then: Bleach the regrowth areas as necessary
If you have a large amount of dark regrowth which you need to take blonde. bleach those areas carefully.
We recommend that you use Brilliant Blondexx with Bond Protect. It is a bleach with good lift as well as protection, and will work well with 20 Vol developer.
Time to Tone: Did You know that there are 4 Different Ways to Tone?
Thanks to Ugly Duckling, you have a choice of at least 4 different products you can use inside the Ugly Duckling range.
They are given below here, in decreasing power in terms of lift and transformation.
For major blonde hair transformation where some lift is required, use our intense toners
For major blonde hair transformation when a little bit of lift is still required, we recommend that you use Ugly Duckling's intense pearl white blonde (100V) or intense silver white blonde (100B) toners with 20 Vol.
You won't get a better degree of lift or toning in the market. These are very very fast acting cream-based toners, to be used with 20 Vol, with a 1+2 mix.
For major blonde transformation but with a little less lift, use our no-lift cream toners.
When you have a lot of color correction to do, but you are happy to achieve less lift (maybe your hair is already exceptionally well lifted, for example), use Ugly Duckling's no-lift pearl and silver blonde toners.
These toners are also cream based and they are also packed with neutralising pigments blue and purple.
But they have less lift than the intense toners. Also to be used with 20 Vol developer, 1 + 2 mix.
For quick gloss toning, and where no lift is required, use Blondify liquid toners.
Blondify is the latest addition to Ugly Duckling's catalog.
These are liquid toners which can be used with developer strengths 7 Vol, 10 Vol or 20 Vol: you decide.
For minimal lift, 7 Vol is recommended.
The mix is 1+1. Development time is 10 minutes.
These toners will not lift the base or regrowth color.
To keep blonde hair white and prevent it from turning yellow, use Ugly Duckling Purple Shampoo & Mask.
This works if your hair is already well pre-lightened and ideally toned also.
It can also be used at the backwash after bleaching or after toning to give some added white to the hair.
Brilliant Blondexx Purple shampoo and mask is packed with the purple and blue pigments you need to turn yellow hair white, without staining.
Simple rub in thoroughly.
Tip: use a lot of product. The more your client's hair comes into contact with the color pigments, the more effective the toning.
In case of the purple mask, leave on for 10 minutes with a warm towel wrapped around your client's head.
You can use a blow dryer or a salon steamer also. It will help let the pigments penetrate into the hair surface.
Rinse after use.