What exactly is a hair toner?
A hair toner is a product that color corrects hair.
There are essentially 3 different types of toners: permanent toners, demi-permanent toners and semi-permanent products.
(1) Permanent hair toners.
These contain ammonia. They open up & penetrate the hair cuticle. They are mixed with developers. Permanent toners are what you need to use if you are looking to achieve significant hair transformation - for example going blonde, white blonde, platinum blonde or ash blonde.
Permanent hair toners, as the name implies, are very long lasting.
Ugly Duckling's permanent hair toners are all cream based and are typically applied using a brush - at least for a first application.
A second application typically involves rubbing in with hands using gloves to achieve greater lift and color vibrancy.
You need to choose between intense toners and no-lift toners depending on how much yellow there is in your client's hair.
If your client's hair is level 9 or 10, with only very little yellow, tone with the no-lift toners.
If your client's hair is level 7 or 8, with more yellow present and a little orange, use the intense toners as these have a special booster which kicks out yellow and lifts the hair by one level.
(2) Demi-Permanent Toners
Demi-permanent toners achieve quick "gloss toning effects". They are great when a quick refresh on highlighted or brassy hair is all you want to do.
Demi's do not contain ammonia and they usually fade out gradually in around 4-5 weeks. At this point they will need a quick refresh.
Hair stylists usually appreciate the quick application time of these toners and the great and immediate color refresh results they achieve. As a result, they are a salon favorite.
Ugly Duckling's demi-permanent hair toners have just been launched.
They are liquid toners, contain no PPD and have been enriched with Bond Protect.
They are very very cosmetic products and can be used frequently (every 6 weeks, for example).
They are applied out of the bottle. They come in 2 shades:
3) Semi-Permanent Toners: Masks, Shampoos & Treatment Products
Semi-permanent toning products are products such as purple and blue masks and shampoo and other semi-permanent treatment products.
These products are best used at the backwash while doing a regular bleach or tone application, or simply by itself.
They can also be used as a regular maintenance product.
As there is no chemical treatment involved (you are basically just applying purple or blue colorant to the outside of the hair) you can use such toners pretty much as often as you like as regular maintenance product.
Ugly Duckling's Brilliant Blonde Purple Shampoo & Mask would be examples of Semi-permanent toning products.
Intense Purple Pigments - but Not Staining.
Sulfate Free, Gluten Free, low pH
How do I tone my client's hair blonde?
The first thing to do is examine the hair and figure out what level it is and how much yellow or orange there is in it.
Use the chart below to help you decide.
The rules for toning are that is the hair is level 6 or darker, you much use bleach to pre-lighten first.
Hair Color Levels & Their Undertones
How do I choose my toner?
Now ask yourself these questions:
(1) Are you looking for a significant blonde transformation? Are you looking to do a full head toning?
If yes, you would need to use Ugly Duckling's permanent toners because they are the best at getting you the lift and the 3D ultra white blonde color results.
Use the intense toners if you need some additional lift even after bleaching.
Use the no-lift toners if the hair is truly well lightened to level 10 and you are looking only to re-pigment.
(2) Are you looking for a quick gloss tone without lifting the roots? Or toning just the blonde highlights without touching a dark base?
If you are just looking for a quick gloss toning result, and if you have a darker base which you prefer to leave untouched, then you should use Ugly Duckling's liquid gloss toners, Blondify.
Use the natural violet blonde toner (010V) if you have yellow hair (level 9-10) which you want to color correct.
And use the natural ash blonde toner (010A) if you have yellow-orange (level 8) hair which needs color correction.
(3) Are you just looking for a blonde maintenance product?
If your hair has already been toned but it is still yellow due to the passage of time, or if you want to refresh it and maintain a pristine white blonde color, then you need to use Ugly Duckling's Purple Shampoo & Mask.
These are hair care products with toning pigments added.
There is no chemical process involved & they can be used in-between salon visits or even at the back wash after a bleach or toning service.
Basically use these products as often as you want.
Ugly Duckling's Purple Shampoo & Mask do not stain. They are sulfate free, gluten free and low pH.
How do I know when to use which toner to use for my hair?
Please use the hair toner guide below.
Hair Toner Guide
(1) Read off as accurately as you can the color of your client's hair currently.
(2) Are you going for a significant blonde transformation involving permanent hair toners for full head toning?
(3) Or are you looking for a quick gloss refresh, toning blonde highlights only without touching the base?
(4) The Hair toner guide will guide you which toner you need to use.
How Should I Apply Cream Based Permanent Toners?
For Ugly Duckling cream toners, the mix is 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
20 Vol would be the developer strength. Remember to pre-lighten first to level 9 for best results.
Ugly Duckling's cream toners are best applied using a brush, as below:
How Should I Apply Liquid Demi-Permanent Toners?
For Blondify, the mix is 1 part toner to 1 part developer.
You can use 7 Vol, 10 Vol or 20 Vol depending on the lift required.
Remember to towel dry the hair if it is wet. Excess moisture will cause dilution of your color mix.
Mix in your applicator bottle and apply as below:
How should I apply Semi-Permanent Purple Toning Shampoos and Masks?
Rub in purple shampoo as thoroughly as you can, making sure that every part of the hair comes into contact with the product. Leave in 5 minutes then rinse in tepid water.
Then apply Purple Mask. Let the purple mask sit under a towel in gentle heat for 10 minutes. Then rinse.
Hair Toners Before & After
Intense Pearl Blonde 100V - Before & After
Blondify Liquid Toner Natural Ash Toner 010A - Before & After