How to Bleach and Tone Hair When You Have a Dark Regrowth.
Oh My - What a Regrowth!
- Our model waited a little too long to come in. So we have a huge, extremely dark regrowth. although her lengths are super white blonde.
- This is going to be a little tricky, because there could be banding issues unless we do it right.
- In this tutorial Elona Taki is going to show us how to bleach and tone.
Step One - Lifting the Regrowth
- We mix Brilliant Blonde Lightener with 30 Vol. Make it fairly pasty, so a little less developer than usual, say 1 part lightener to 1.5 parts lightener.
- In this case as we want to deposit a lot of mixture and really saturate and lift this extremely dark regrowth.
- Start working on the back. With bleach you really need to work fast to give all the hair an equal processing time.
- So some hair stylists may decide to start off with 20 Vol on the back, and then move on to a fresh mix with 30 Vol on the top, as this area is going to get less processing time by the time you get around to the top.
- Alternatively, stay with the same mix, but move really really fast.
- Stay just a little (1/8 inch) away from the scalp, the mixture will travel up. The scalp creates heat, and this can lead to overprocessing on the root area, leading to banding issues.
- At the same time you need to be careful in this case not too overlap over the lengths as they are really really white.
- Place a lot of product on the hair with the brush. Hold it firmly and press because you do need to really saturate the product.
- Work section by section and re-saturate. Take down piece by piece and go over it one more time.
- Don't just leave your client and walk away, with bleach you need to check, check, check!.
- If you have overlapped with the lengths, now is your chance to take a towel and rinse off on those parts to avoid banding (bleaching onto already white hair will make it very very white) and even to avoid breakage.
- In this case, we took around 20 minutes of processing.
- Make sure you get it all the way up to a true pale yellow. Don't wash off too soon!
- You can rinse off a piece from the back to check.
Step Two Rinse and Apply Toner
- We are going to tone with Silver Blonde toner (10B) and Pearl Blonde toner (10V), mixed 50/50.
- We are going to use 10 Vol developer.
- We can apply these toners straight away on wet hair. You can even apply at the back wash if you prefer.
- After rinsing you can see that the heat of the scalp got the hair really blonde near the scalp, but lower down it is a little more yellow.
- So we are going to have to adjust with our toner application, and be sure to really apply and re-apply on the yellow parts.
- Our aim is to get the whole head right up to a beautiful white blonde hair color result.
- We section and apply, starting from the back. Remember to work really fast - this is important!
- Wait about 10 minutes and rinse.
- Wash and blow dry and you're done!
Final Result - Consistent Ultra White Blonde Hair with No Line of Demarcation
Watch Elona Taki's Full Video Tutorial Here:
- Brilliant Blonde Lightener
- Silver Blonde (10B) toner and Pearl Blonde (10V) toner
- 10 and 30 Vol Developer