My hair has gone orange. What should I do?
Is your hair or your client's hair orange?
It's a very common problem!
In this blog we will show you why that happens.
And how you can fix it using professional color products from Ugly Duckling.
Why Does Hair Turn Orange In the First Place?
In order to understand why hair turns orange in the first place, we need to understand some basic color theory.
When hair is lifted either with bleach or color it produces an undercoat, or secondary color.
This undercoat can be anything from red-orange, to orange, to orange-yellow, then yellow, then palest yellow.
Which color it is will depend on the level the hair is at.
See the chart below:
This chart shows the undercoat you get at each level.
How Can I get Rid of the Orange?
The first step is always to bleach the hair.
Lift until you have got rid of all the orange and the hair has turned yellow.
Ideally, very pale yellow.
In order to do that correctly, it's important to choose your bleach correctly, as not all bleaches function the same way.
Some bleaches have more lifting powers than others.
It is even possible that the reason your hair turned orange in the first place was because the bleach you used did not have sufficient lifting capability.
We would recommend that you use Brilliant Blondexx when trying to lift hair.
It is the only bleach with Bond Protect built in, which will protect and strengthen the hair as you lift it.
And it will lift the hair beyond orange all the way to very pale yellow (level 10), which is the ideal level.
Then after that there are a variety of blue and ash based products you can use depending on the exact result you are aiming for.
Method 1: Tone with Blondify 010A
In this method, which is the simplest of them all, we simply tone all over with Blondify Natural Ash Blonde toner 010A.
Blondify is a liquid, ammonia-free toner which takes just 10 minutes time to process.
Mix with 20 Vol developer in an applicator bottle or in a mixing bowl and apply all through the hair.
Make sure you saturate very very well.
Very soon you will see the hair start to change color and absorb the ash pigments which are going to help you produce a beautiful, finished result.
STEP ONE: BLEACH HAIR USING BRILLIANT BLONDEXX UNTIL YELLOW
NOW TONE WITH BLONDIFY NATURAL ASH BLONDE TONER
THE FINAL RESULT - NO MORE ORANGE
The Final Result
WATCH VIDEO OF THIS TECHNIQUE NOW:
Method 2: Tone with 7.1B and 7.22 (7VV)
In this method we once again bleach the hair to get rid of the orange.
But we tone the hair slightly darker, bringing the hair down to a level 7.
Still blonde, but more of a medium blonde.
We use blue and purple based colors in order to achieve the final look.
Blue and purple are the neutralizings color for orange and yellow on the Color Wheel, as you can see in the chart below:
Before: Dark Regrowth & Orange Ends
Apply Brilliant Blondexx using Foil
Hair Lifted to Yellow
Hair Toned with Ugly Duckling 7.1b & 7VV
The Final Result
WATCH VIDEO NOW:
Method 3: Tone with 10.2 and 7.22 (7VV)
In our third example, we once again bleach away the orange using Brilliant Blondexx.
In this example, we bleach very very well, all the way up to level 9/10.
This allows us to aim for a really white ash blonde result.
Because we are now at level 9/10, rather than blue based, we go for purple based colors.
See the chart above on which colors neutralize which, and you will see why we choose purple.
So we tone with some very intensely pigmented Ugly Duckling colors: 10.2 (violet based extra light blonde and 7VV (intense violet blonde).
Because we bleached really well, we got a really stunning cold ash blonde result.
And that is really the key: the better you bleach, the better your final results will be.
If you have clients who are looking to go very very cold, white ash blonde we recommend you follow this technique.
Before: Orange Hair
Hair Lifted with Brilliant Blondexx to Level 9
Hair Toned with 7.1b and 7VV
WATCH VIDEO NOW: