As a hairdresser or colorist, you've likely encountered clients who desire a stunning blonde transformation, only to discover that their hair has an underlying orange tone.
While this may seem like a challenging task, achieving the perfect blonde from orange hair is indeed possible with the right techniques and expertise.
In this guide, we will walk you through the essential steps to turn orange hair into a beautiful shade of blonde, ensuring your clients leave your salon feeling confident and radiant.
Step 1: Assess the hair's current level
What level is the orange hair exactly? Assess its level using the chart above
Before embarking on the journey to transform orange hair into blonde, it's crucial to assess the starting point accurately.
Understanding the hair's current level on the color scale is the foundation of a successful transformation.
How orange is the hair exactly? If it is mainly yellow and only slightly orange, it is probably at around level 7- 8.
But if it is showing a lot of orange, that would mean that it is around level 6-7.
If there is some red in the orange, then the hair is darker, and is more likely a level 5.
Use proper lighting to examine the hair's undertones, as these will influence your choice of products and techniques.
Orange undertones usually indicate the presence of warmth, making it essential to neutralize them effectively.
Step 2: Choose the right lightening technique
To achieve blonde hair from an orange base, you have two primary options: bleach or high lift color. The choice between the two depends on the level of lift required and the hair's condition.
Brilliant Blondexx Bleach
Bleach is the go-to choice for clients with dark orange hair (levels 6) or for those who desire a significantly lighter blonde shade.
Ensure you use a quality bleach product. A good bleach will lift the hair quickly and efficiently.
If your hair is pale orange and around level 7 - 8. you will only need one application of a good quality bleach with 20 Vol developer to take it to blonde.
If on the other hand it is showing a lot of orange (level 5-6) then 30 Vol would probably be necessary.
Always perform a strand test to determine the appropriate processing time and check for any adverse reactions.
High Lift Color
100.10 High Lift Ash Blonde
100.11 High Lift Deep Ash Blonde
100.30 High Lift Golden Blonde
High lift color is also an excellent choice for clients with light orange hair (level 7-8) who want a more subtle medium blonde color rather than a level 10 blonde.
In general we would recommend that you select a high lift color with the desired blonde reflect (e.g., ash blonde, golden blonde).
Use your high lift color with 30 Vol developer to get rid of orange.
Keep in mind that high lift color may not provide as much lift as bleach, so it's crucial to set realistic expectations with your client.
Step 3: Toning to neutralize orange tones
Use this chart to choose your neutralizing color
After successfully lightening the hair, it's time to tone to neutralize any remaining orange undertones and achieve the desired blonde shade.
Select a toner with the opposite color on the color wheel to cancel out the orange.
In most cases, blue or purple toners will work very well to counteract yellow and orange tones.
Which toner should I use?
Which toner you use depends on the color of your hair after your bleach or high lift process.
And it also depends on the final result that you are looking to have.
If the hair has yellow tones, opt for a purple or violet toner.
We have given 3 such purple based toners above.
The first is a high lift toner. It will produce pearl grey tones and it will give additional lift.
Use this one if you want to get the hair a little lighter even after bleaching.
It will give pearl white blonde results
The second is a very white purple based toner. It gives regular lift but very intense purple pigmentation. Use this hair for a regular lift toner with very good (very strong pigmentation).
It will give grey blonde results
The third is our new Blondify purple based level 10 toner.
It works in just 10 minutes and is made to counteract yellow.
It will produce a natural white blonde result.
If the hair is brassy yellow or orange tones, then you need to choose a blue based toner.
We have given 2 blue based toners that you can consider using above.
The first is a level 10 based toner.
This will produce the whitest blonde result.
The second is a level 9 based toner.
Use this one if you are targeting medium blonde.
If orange hair needs to get toned down, use this toner
What if the hair is really orange (even after you have maxxed out the bleaching process) and you can't get it any lighter?
And you want to tone down the orange into a medium blonde, rather than tone it up to a light blonde ?
Then in that case use the toner above. It is a level 9 based blue ash blonde with no lift.
But packed with blue and ash pigments for toning down and covering orange.
Whichever toner you use. mix it with the recommended amount of developer and apply it evenly to the hair.
Monitor the toner's processing time carefully, as leaving it on for too long can lead to unwanted cool or ashy results.
Step 4: Maintaining your blonde hair
After getting your orange hair to blonde, and after using high lift colors and bleach, it is essential to use a good hair care regime in order to keep your blonde hair in a healthy condition.
We would recommend you use acid based hair products only.
Acid based products return the hair to its natural condition (which is is slightly acidic) and in so doing help to close the hair cuticles.
Sulfate free is another factor you should consider. Sulfate free hair care minimises buildup and keeps the hair light and allows it to have a natural feel.
Lastly, do consider using Bond Protect (Plex technology).
This is a recent advance made in hair care technology.
What it means is that the hair bonds are strengthened from the interior, leading to hair that feels much stronger.
This is particularly important when you have bleached the hair.
Transforming orange hair into a beautiful shade of blonde is an art that requires skill, knowledge, and precision.
By assessing the hair's level, selecting the right lightening technique, and using the appropriate toner, you can help your clients achieve the blonde hair they've always dreamed of.
Remember to prioritize hair health throughout the process and always conduct thorough consultations to set realistic expectations.
With the right techniques and expertise, you can turn the challenge of orange hair into a rewarding success for both you and