Do you have yellow hair? Or do you have clients walking into your salon who do?
In this blog, we will show you how to fix it & turn any yellow hair into a beautiful white ash blonde.
STEP ONE - DO YOUR HAIR ANALYSIS
- In this picture, our model's the whole root area or regrowth area is really yellow.
- It's around level 6. You can see that he has tried to tone it herself - and it didn't work!
- And there is a considerable differential between the regrowth area and the rest.
- The ends are really white - they have clearly been lightened and color processed several times in the past.
- This is really normal. The ends are at least one to two years old and they have been chemically processed many times.
- Whereas the regrowth is still reflecting the client's natural hair color level
- It still has a lot of yellowness and brassiness that needs taking out.
STEP TWO - LIFT ROOTS, REGROWTH AND ANY PARTS WHICH ARE UNDER LEVEL 6.
- Very often, stylists want to jump right in and apply toner to the whole head.
- But in this case, that would be a bad idea.
- We would need to get the re-growth area up first so that it is at the same level as the ends.
- Only then can we tone.
- So to lift up the regrowth area we use Brilliant Blonde blue based bleach with 20 Vol developer.
- We make a mix of 1 part bleach to 2 parts lightener.
- That way we get a nice runny mix which is quick and easy to apply - and it will saturate the hair well.
- Here is what the bleach mixture looks like.
- And here is the bleach mixture once applied on the regrowth area.
- So now we give the hair a processing time of around 10-15 minutes.
- Bleaches do vary considerably in their lifting ability.
- In this case, Brilliant Blonde is a rather fast acting bleach, and so 1--15 minutes should be enough using 20 Vol developer.
- In any case, when applying bleach, you need to remove some of the mixture with your tailcomb and check for when it is done.
- Then only can you rinse.
STEP THREE - APPLY THE COLOR
- We are going to use Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde 10.1b
- This is a blue based blonde color from Ugly Duckling.
- The blue pigments in it act to neutralize any remaining yellow in the hair, while the blonding agents achieve the level 10 blonde color that our model needs.
- As you can see, the blue based pigments in the color are so rich that they immediately start turning the hair from yellow to blue and grey.
- These color changes are totally normal.
- Incidentally, Extra Cold Ash Blonde is not a toner - it's a full fledged color.
- Which means you get a really rich, vibrant 3D ash blonde color with it.
- It also means that you mix it in a ratio of 1 + 1 with your 20 Vol Developer.
THE FINAL RESULT - EXTRA LIGHT COLD ASH BLONDE 10.1b
WATCH THE TUTORIAL HERE: