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How to Get Ash Blonde Hair from Yellow

BY SALLY MADISON
NATIONAL COLOR TRAINER

Do you have yellow hair? Or do you have clients walking into your salon who do?

In this blog, we will show you how to fix it & turn any yellow hair into a beautiful white ash blonde.

STEP ONE - DO YOUR HAIR ANALYSIS

Brassy Hair

  • In this picture, our model's the whole root area or regrowth area is really yellow.
  • It's around level 6. You can see that he has tried to tone it herself - and it didn't work!
  • And there is a considerable differential between the regrowth area and the rest.
  • The ends are really white - they have clearly been lightened and color processed several times in the past.
  • This is really normal. The ends are at least one to two years old and they have been chemically processed many times.
  • Whereas the regrowth is still reflecting the client's natural hair color level
  • It still has a lot of yellowness and brassiness that needs taking out.

STEP TWO - LIFT ROOTS, REGROWTH AND ANY PARTS WHICH ARE UNDER LEVEL 6.

  • Very often, stylists want to jump right in and apply toner to the whole head.
  • But in this case, that would be a bad idea.
  • We would need to get the re-growth area up first so that it is at the same level as the ends. 
  • Only then can we tone.
  • So to lift up the regrowth area we use Brilliant Blonde blue based bleach with 20 Vol developer.
  • We make a mix of 1 part bleach to 2 parts lightener.
  • That way we get a nice runny mix which is quick and easy to apply - and it will saturate the hair well.
  • Here is what the bleach mixture looks like.

Brilliant Blonde Bleach Mix

  • And here is the bleach mixture once applied on the regrowth area.

Bleach Mixture Applied

  • So now we give the hair a processing time of around 10-15 minutes.
  • Bleaches do vary considerably in their lifting ability.
  • In this case, Brilliant Blonde is a rather fast acting bleach, and so 1--15 minutes should be enough using 20 Vol developer.
  • In any case, when applying bleach, you need to remove some of the mixture with your tailcomb and check for when it is done.
  • Then only can you rinse.

STEP THREE - APPLY THE COLOR

  • We are going to use Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde 10.1b
  • This is a blue based blonde color from Ugly Duckling.
  • The blue pigments in it act to neutralize any remaining yellow in the hair, while the blonding agents achieve the level 10 blonde color that our model needs.
  • As you can see, the blue based pigments in the color are so rich that they immediately start turning the hair from yellow to blue and grey.
  • These color changes are totally normal.
  • Incidentally, Extra Cold Ash Blonde is not a toner - it's a full fledged color.
  • Which means you get a really rich, vibrant 3D ash blonde color with it.
  • It also means that you mix it in a ratio of 1 + 1 with your 20 Vol Developer.

Applying 10.1b

THE FINAL RESULT - EXTRA LIGHT COLD ASH BLONDE 10.1b

Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde

WATCH THE TUTORIAL HERE:

Products Used:

About the author

Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.

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