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How do blue based toners fix orange hair?


Why does hair turn orange?

Hair turns orange for one reason and one reason only.

It has not been bleached enough.

That's why it's orange.

There is no other reason.

All hair works in this way. It's not just your client's hair!

How do blue based toners work to fix orange?

It's all to do with the way neutralizing colors work.

When the hair is level 7 and level 8, it tends to give off orange-yellow and yellow tones.

Using blue based toners can help counteract that.

See the chart below:

How blue neutralizes orange

What should I do if I have orange hair?

It depends on what exactly you want to do with the orange hair and also on what you are prepared to do.

Do you want to fix it and take the hair blonde? 

Or fix the orange and tone down?

Because the exact solution, and the techniques and products you are going to use will depend on this decision.

Use bleach first before you do anything else

If you wish to take the hair blonde, the first thing you will need to do is to bleach it some more.

Remember that the only reason it's orange is because you did not bleach the hair enough the first time round.

Use a quality bleach. We suggest you use Brilliant Blondexx.

It's a bleach with Plex Technology (Bond Protect) built in.

Which means it both lifts and protects at the same time.

Mix the bleach with 20 Vol and saturate the hair very well.

Within minutes you should find the hair lifting.

We would suggest you try and get the hair all the way to palest yellow level 10.

Which blue based toner should I use if I want to take the hair full blonde?

Once you have done that, you are ready to apply blonde blue-based toners.

In order to go full blonde, we suggest that you use either 10.1b Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde or Very Light Cold Ash Blonde 9.1b.

Both are blue based toner ash blonde toner at very light levels.

Choose the color according to how light you want to be.

10.b extra light cold ash blonde

Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde 10.1b

result 10.1b

Result Using Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde 10.1b

9.1b very light cold ash blonde

Very Light Cold Ash Blonde 9.1b

Cody Darnell

Result Using 9.1b Very Light Cold Ash Blonde

Hair by Cody Darnell

Which blue based toners should I use if I want to go medium blonde?

If the hair is very orange, we would still recommend that you first bleach the hair with Brilliant Blondexx bleach.

However, you can get away with a slightly warmer result after bleaching.

Yellow level 8-9 instead of pale yellow level 10, for instance.

If you wish to go medium blonde, then the blue toners you need to use are 8.1b Light Cold Ash Blonde and 7.1b Cold Ash Blonde.


Light Cold Ash Blonde 8.1b


Cold Ash Blonde 7.1b

Watch video using 7.1b and 8.1b

Hair by Elona Taki

Which blue based toners should I use if I want to go dark blonde or brown?

We would suggest you use Dark Cold Ash Blonde 6.1b. This will give you your base color.

If there is a lot of orange or even reddish orange in the hair, we would suggest you add in a small amount of Ash Blue Additive.

This will give you an extra quantity of blue ash pigments which will give you the extra blue.

About an inch squeezed out of the tube mixed with a full tube of Dark Cold Ash Blonde should be enough.

Dark Cold Ash Blonde

Dark Cold Ash Blonde 6.1b

Ash Blue Additive

Ash Blue Additive

Watch video using 6.1b, 5.11 and Ash Blue Additive

Hair by Elona Taki

About the author

Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.

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