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Home / Blog/ How The Hair Color Number System Works
Home Blog How The Hair Color Number System Works

How The Hair Color Number System Works

BY SALLY MADISON
NATIONAL COLOR TRAINER


HAIR COLOR LEVELS

  • Hairdressers use an international numbering system to describe the lightness of hair color in humans.
  • The color levels go from 1 Black all the way up to 10 Extra Light Blonde.
  • The most commonly occurring hair color in European hair is typically level 6 for France, and level 7 for North European countries.
  • Hispanics & Middle Eastern women typically have hair which is level 4-5.
  • Indians most commonly have hair which is level 3-4.
  • Asians (Chinese, Japanese, Koreans) typically have hair which is level 2-3.
  • But be aware that there is a huge variety inside each race and country.
  • The first thing a hairdresser needs to do when a client sits in her chair is to establish what the true natural level of her client's hair color is.
  • Use a hair chart if necessary to physically check and assess.

Hair Color Levels


HAIR COLOR REFLECTS
 

  • The hair color reflect refers to the secondary color which has been added in a permanent hair color
  • These colors are essentially enhancers.
  • This can rapidly get very confusing as there are 2 reflect systems out there.
  • In addition, every manufacturer has their own tweaks which makes life even more complicated.
  • Please realize that every manufacturer's formulation is unique.
  • Just because you love that JP Mitchell 10V it does not mean that an Ugly Duckling 10.2 ( that's what we call 10V) or a Matrix 10V is going to be the exact same thing.
  • Nevertheless, they serve at best as a guide to the manufacturer's intentions.
  • After that, you the colorist needs to try out and use different brands for the same color and find out which works best for you.
  • Also be aware that certain hair color brands are tuned warmer, others are tuned colder (JP Mitchell & L'Oreal for example are tuned warmer, more golden, whereas Ugly Duckling is tuned colder and ashier).
  • Some brands are really going for maximum grey hair coverage, others (like Ugly Duckling) are going for greater color vibrancy.

 

Color Reflects

  • To understand a hair color, just read the number from left to right.
  • The first number will always refer to the hair color level.
  • The numbers or letters after that refer to the reflects - there may be more than 1 reflect.
  • Below is how it is displayed on Ugly Duckling's tubes.
  • A 100 at the front means that the product has some degree of high lift built in.
  • Once again, the exact degree of high lift will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Ugly Duckling's Number System

HOW UGLY DUCKLING TONERS GET THEIR NUMBER & LETTER

  • An Ugly Duckling toner with booster inside will carry the number 100.
  • A no-lift Ugly Duckling toner will carry the number 10, which is the level of hair color it gives.
  • The letter V indicates Violet. A V toner is violet {purple} based - we use the terms violet and purple interchangeably.
  • The letter B indicates Blue. A B toner is blue based.
About the author

Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.

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