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How to Bleach Dark Roots Blonde

BY SALLY MADISON
NATIONAL COLOR TRAINER

When your client comes in with very dark roots and she is looking to go blonde, here is what you need to do:

Hair Analysis

FIRST, DO YOUR HAIR ANALYSIS

  • In this picture, you can see that the client's roots are really very dark - around level 3.
  • But she is looking to be a level 10 blonde.
  • Since we are looking to lift 7 levels, we will need to use a good quality bleach with 30 Vol.
  • Then we are going to tone the whole head
  • Then we are going to apply treatment products

Brilliant Blondexx & 30 Vol developer

BRILLIANT BLONDEXX BOND PROTECT BLEACH & 30 Vol Developer

  • It is important to use a good quality bleach with strong lifting power.
  • At the same time, we don't want to compromise hair integrity.
  • We are using Brilliant Blondexx Bond Protect Bleach with 30 Vol developer.
  • The mix is 1 part bleach to 2 parts developer

Bleach Application

APPLY THE BLEACH MIX TO THE ROOT AREA

  • Section neatly and apply your bleach mix to the root area.
  • When applying, just place the mixture near the root area without poking the scalp.
  • This will allow your client to enjoy a more comfortable bleaching experience and will prevent scalp irritation.
  • The bleach we are using does contain Bond Protect & it will do its part also in protecting the hair during the whole bleaching & lifting process.

Rince Bleach When Done

RINSE BLEACH WHEN DONE

  • People often ask how long should I process the bleach.
  • There is no fixed answer: you will need to use your skills as a stylist and keep checking until you are sure you have lifted to very pale yellow level 10.
  • Remember: under-processing with bleach & under-saturating with bleach are the 2 most common reasons for a stylist to fail in her or his blonding.

Hair Lifted to Level 10

HAIR LIFTED TO LEVEL 10

  • This is the same hair after rinsing.
  • You can see it has been lifted to a very consistent level 10 with no visible line of demarcation.
  • This is absolutely key to a successful blonding.

APPLY TONER

PEARL BLONDE 10V TONER WITH 20 Vol

  • Now we are ready to tone.
  • The toner we are using today is Pearl Blonde Toner 10V with 20 Vol developer.
  • It contains a lot of purple and blue pigments which will help us take our client's hair from pale yellow to a perfectly toned white platinum blonde.
  • The mix is 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
  • This gives a fairly runny mix which you can apply quickly.
  • And with toner it is important to work fast so that you are giving the whole head as equal a processing time as possible.
  • If the hair has been evenly lifted, it is a good idea to start from the lengths and do the roots last.
  • The roots will process faster due to the heat from the scalp & you want to avoid over-processed roots.

TONER PROCESSING

TONER PROCESSING ON THE HEAD

  • You can see the purple and blue pigments processing on the head.
  • Generally, around 10-15 minutes of processing is enough with Ugly Duckling toners as they are quite strong.

CONDITION WITH BRILLIANT BLONDEXX

CONDITION WITH BRILLIANT BLONDEXX MASK

  • If your client has bleached blonde hair, a treatment mask is highly recommended afterwards.
  • Here we are using Brilliant Blondexx. It contains maleic acid (Bond Protect) and will help restore the hair's natural strength.
  • It will make it thicker and stronger also.

FINAL RESULT

FINAL RESULT: WHITE PLATINUM BLONDE HAIR.

Hair by Ashley Betancourt

WATCH THE VIDEO TUTORIAL NOW:

About the author

Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.

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