When your client comes in with very dark roots and she is looking to go blonde, here is what you need to do:
FIRST, DO YOUR HAIR ANALYSIS
- In this picture, you can see that the client's roots are really very dark - around level 3.
- But she is looking to be a level 10 blonde.
- Since we are looking to lift 7 levels, we will need to use a good quality bleach with 30 Vol.
- Then we are going to tone the whole head
- Then we are going to apply treatment products
BRILLIANT BLONDEXX BOND PROTECT BLEACH & 30 Vol Developer
- It is important to use a good quality bleach with strong lifting power.
- At the same time, we don't want to compromise hair integrity.
- We are using Brilliant Blondexx Bond Protect Bleach with 30 Vol developer.
- The mix is 1 part bleach to 2 parts developer
APPLY THE BLEACH MIX TO THE ROOT AREA
- Section neatly and apply your bleach mix to the root area.
- When applying, just place the mixture near the root area without poking the scalp.
- This will allow your client to enjoy a more comfortable bleaching experience and will prevent scalp irritation.
- The bleach we are using does contain Bond Protect & it will do its part also in protecting the hair during the whole bleaching & lifting process.
RINSE BLEACH WHEN DONE
- People often ask how long should I process the bleach.
- There is no fixed answer: you will need to use your skills as a stylist and keep checking until you are sure you have lifted to very pale yellow level 10.
- Remember: under-processing with bleach & under-saturating with bleach are the 2 most common reasons for a stylist to fail in her or his blonding.
HAIR LIFTED TO LEVEL 10
- This is the same hair after rinsing.
- You can see it has been lifted to a very consistent level 10 with no visible line of demarcation.
- This is absolutely key to a successful blonding.
PEARL BLONDE 10V TONER WITH 20 Vol
- Now we are ready to tone.
- The toner we are using today is Pearl Blonde Toner 10V with 20 Vol developer.
- It contains a lot of purple and blue pigments which will help us take our client's hair from pale yellow to a perfectly toned white platinum blonde.
- The mix is 1 part toner to 2 parts developer.
- This gives a fairly runny mix which you can apply quickly.
- And with toner it is important to work fast so that you are giving the whole head as equal a processing time as possible.
- If the hair has been evenly lifted, it is a good idea to start from the lengths and do the roots last.
- The roots will process faster due to the heat from the scalp & you want to avoid over-processed roots.
TONER PROCESSING ON THE HEAD
- You can see the purple and blue pigments processing on the head.
- Generally, around 10-15 minutes of processing is enough with Ugly Duckling toners as they are quite strong.
CONDITION WITH BRILLIANT BLONDEXX MASK
- If your client has bleached blonde hair, a treatment mask is highly recommended afterwards.
- Here we are using Brilliant Blondexx. It contains maleic acid (Bond Protect) and will help restore the hair's natural strength.
- It will make it thicker and stronger also.
FINAL RESULT: WHITE PLATINUM BLONDE HAIR.
Hair by Ashley Betancourt