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How to use Blue Based Ash blonde Hair Dyes to go Ash Blonde or to Tone Down

BY SALLY MADISON
NATIONAL COLOR TRAINER

Blue based dyes have an important place in any professional colorist's toolkit. In this blog, we discuss how blue based dyes can be used, either to go ash blonde and also to tone down. 

Is Ash Blonde Blue Based or Green Based?

Most professional ash blonde colors are green-based ash.

The problem with these green based ash colors is that although they are great at neutralizing warm reflects present in dark hair, they are not so good if you are looking to get a very pure white blonde color, especially when you are working with very blonde hair.

Hair that has been lifted to level 9/10 is a typical example.

That is why Ugly Duckling has two ash blonde ranges: a blue based ash blonde hair color range and a green-based ash range.

The regular green based range ends in "A" or .1. For example 10.1/10A, 9.1/9A etc. These ash blondes are green-based ash blonde colors.

Whereas the blue based range ends in a small "b". These are blue based ash blonde color.

For example, 10.1b is blue based extra light ash blonde.

How to cancel out yellow using blue.

Ugly Duckling's blue based ash blonde colors have been made to cancel out yellow and get really perfect ash blonde results.

Especially when you're talking about blonde hair level 6/7 and up.

The way they work is that they contain a dollop of blue instead of green in their formulation.

This blue helps to counter yellow in blonde hair and helps produce very natural, pure white blonde results which tend to be very appreciated by hair stylists.

It's basic Color Wheel Theory - Blue Cancels Out Yellow

The result is a truer, colder ash blonde result. 

Blue is a very effective color for neutralizing yellow and orangish-yellow.

Blue Neutralizes Yellow

Blue based Ash Blonde Dyes Before & After

Brassy and Yellow Hair before:

Brassy Hair

The same hair after using prelightening the regrowth area and use 10.1b and 20 Vol :

10.1b

The best part of using blue based ash blonde dye is that the results are totally unique: because all the yellow has been eliminated, it is possible to achieve stunning cold white blonde results, without a trace of yellow.

WATCH BLUE BASED ASH BLONDE HAIR COLOR 10.1b IN ACTION

Hair by Brittney Perez

When should I use blue-based ash blonde colors?

We suggest you use Ugly Duckling's blue based ash blonde colors in place of regular ash blonde hair color whenever you are looking for a particularly white blonde result with zero yellow.

Which blue-based ash blonde colors are available?

Ugly Duckling has blue based ash blondes starting at level 6 and going all the way up to level 10. We also have a very dark blue based color, raven black. This is a stand alone fashion color.

10.1B 9.1B 8.1B 7.1B
6.1B RAVEN BLACK

How should I use them?

Just use these colors with 20 Vol developer, 1 + 1 mix.

Be aware that these dyes are not toners, they are full fledged colors. This means that you need to let them process for a full 30 minutes in order to get the full, rich 3D reflects that these colors offer.

How to use Blue Based Dyes For Ash Blonde Hair Color Results:

For ash blonde results, we recommend you use 10.1b, 9.1b and 8.1b and that you prelighten first. That is how the result shots below were obtained.

Blue Based Ash Blonde Hair - 10.1b

Blue Based Ash Blonde Hair

Blue based ash blonde hair - 9.1b (shadow root)

9.1b shadow root

How to Use Blue Based Dyes To Tone Down

If, however, you are looking to tone down, or cover yellow or orange hair use 7.1b or 6.1b or 7.22 with 20 Vol.

The blue in these colors will help neutralize the yellow.

Before

Before

During

During 7.1b

After

After 7.1b

WATCH THE VIDEO OF THE MAKEOVER HERE:

About the author

Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.

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