Do you have dark roots which you need to lift and take blonde?
This is not a complicated process.
Bleaching the root area typically does fast.
It is the part nearest the scalp, so it's getting all the heat from there.
Plus it's virgin hair.
So you should find it relatively easy and fast to lift - provided you use the right products and the right technique.
In this blog we will show you how.
On a real life model.
What Hair Color are your Roots?
Dark Roots Needing to be Bleached
Above is a typical example of ultra dark roots needing to be bleached and taken up to the same level as the lengths.
We are going to apply bleach to the dark part only and lift them up before we tone them.
What Do I need to Bleach and Lift Dark Roots?
Brilliant Blondexx and 30 Vol Developer
For situations where you need to lift by many levels on the root area, we always recommend Brilliant Blondexx bleach.
Brilliant Blondexx contains Bond Protect, which means there is additional protection which you really need for near-root applications.
Thanks to the Bond Protect, the mixture will be comfortable sitting near the scalp and won't burn the hair.
Which Volume Developer?
With Brilliant Blondexx, use either 20 Vol or 30 Vol developer.
If the hair that needs to be lifted is dark blonde and fairly fine, then use 20 Vol.
But if the hair is very dark (as in the picture above, then use 30 Vol.
What is the Right Mix?
The correct mix for Ugly Duckling bleaches is 1 part bleach to 2 parts developer.
It's important to stick to this mix ratio as far as possible, as this ratio will give you a fairly wet mix that will process fast when sitting on the root area.
How do I Mix the Bleach and Developer?
Mix in a plastic bowl, ideally with a whisk. Both products are available on Ugly Duckling's e-store.
How do I apply and up to Where?
How to apply bleach neatly onto the root area without banding.
Apply on the root area. Take the mix up as far as the white.
It is important not to overlap the application onto previously bleached hair, as otherwise you could get breakage.
If you have overlapped during the application by mistake, don't worry.
Just wipe back with a wet cloth and you will be fine.
That way, the the bleach does not sit and process on the overlapped hair.
How do I avoid damage when I bleach my roots?
Brilliant Blondexx with Bond Protect
Using good quality bleach is the most important step that you as a hairdresser can take.
Not all bleaches have equal lifting power.
Meaning that they end up sitting way too long on the scalp and on the hair.
We would suggest Brilliant Blondexx with Bond Protect for all near-root applications
When do I rinse?
Hair after Bleaching with Brilliant Blondexx
If you have blonde ends, you need to keep bleaching the root area until they are also equally white.
The number one mistake you can mistake is to rinse too soon.
Wait until you get very very pale yellow, bordering on white.
That way you will get perfect blonde results.
Without any banding.
How do I tone the hair after bleaching?
Pearl Based Ugly Duckling toner sitting on the bleached hair.
Once the hair has been lifted nicely, rinse and take a good look at it.
Is there any banding? In other words, any parts where the hair is yellower?
If so, this is the part on which you are going to apply the toner first.
Which toner should I use on my freshly bleached hair?
Ugly Duckling has a variety of toners which you can use, both permanent and demi-permanent.
Look at the bleached root area and compare the color using the chart below in order to make your toner selection.
How do I maintain my freshly bleached and toned hair?
We would recommend Brilliant Blondexx's Hair treatment range.
It contains high concentration of Maleic Acid (Bond Protect, in other words).
This will help strengthen the hair and make it stronger, plumper and healthier.
WATCH VIDEO NOW:
Hair by Elona Taki