Why does hair turn brassy after bleaching?
Brassy hair in need of lifting and toning
When bleaching the hair, it is totally normal for the hair to get brassy, yellow or even yellow-orange.
It happens to everybody's hair.
This is because as you bleach hair from brown to blonde, the hair starts to have a secondary color.
Hairdressers refer to this as the undercoat.
Depending on the hair color level, this secondary color can be orange, orange-yellow, yellow, or pale yellow.
In this blog, we will show you how you can color correct for these colors, simply and effectively.
Which type of toner should I use?
Blondify Ammonia-Free Liquid Gloss toners. Use these if your hair is level 7 and over.
If your hair is level 7 and over, and you are looking to tone bleached hair or highlights, we would suggest Blondify demi-permanent toners.
These are liquid gloss toners, and they are ammonia free.
They work in only 10 minutes using low developer strength.
How should I choose my exact shade of toner?
This chart shows which colors cancel out which color
In order to color-correst, you will need a toner.
But which toner is the right choice for you?
This will depend on the exact type of brassiness that your hair has
Is it more yellow? Or is it more orange-yellow?
Which toner you need to use depends on your answer to this.
For yellow hair, use a Violet based toner.
If your hair is yellow, or pale yellow with no orange whatsoever then you need to use a violet blonde toner.
Refer to the chart above. Your situation would correspond to the top 2 rows.
Level 10 palest yellow or level 9 yellow.
Violet (purple, in other words) would be the right choice of toner to counteract this yellow and help you get to a cool ash blonde or platinum blonde result.
Natural Violet Blonde Toner: use this to counteract yellow tones in bleached hair
For yellow-orange hair, use an Ash based toner.
If, on the other hand, your hair is orange or orange-yellow, then you should use an ash blonde toner.
Refer once again to the chart above. This would correspond to the second two rows. Bright yellow and orange-yellow.
An ash toner (which is essentially blue mixed with a dollop of green) will neutralize and get rid of the yellow-orange.
Natural Ash Blonde toner: use this to counteract yellow-orange tones in the hair
How to mix and apply toner to brassy hair
The above 2 toners are liquid toners and can be used with either 10 or 20 Vol developer, depending on how much lift you are looking to achieve.
Mix them in a 1+1 ratio (equal parts toner and developer) in a plastic applicator bottle and pour over the hair.
Rub in thoroughly and let process for 10 minutes.
These toners are demi-permanent toners, meaning that they contain no ammonia whatsoever.
They also contain Bond Protect, which means that they will help keep hair strong and in good condition.
How to Tone Brassy hair With Purple Shampoo and Mask
Use Purple Shampoo and Mask to color correct after toning
After toning, we would recommend you do one more thing to deal with your brassy hair.
Shampoo and condition using purple shampoo and mask.
These are also color correcting products.
The pigments in these products will do the final step of getting rid of any yellowness or any brassiness.
How to Maintain your Blonde Hair
Bleached and Toned hair can be maintained with Bond Protect Shampoo & Mask
Finally, in order to maintain bleached and toned white hair, we would suggest you use Bond Protect treatment products on a consistent basis.
These products are acidic (meaning that they will help close the hair cuticle) and sulfate free (meaning no clogging of pores).
Plus they contain maleic acid - which is the Bond Protect.