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How to Bleach and Tone Hair Perfectly


Are you looking for the correct way to get hair white blonde? Like in the images below?

Toned with Intense Silver Blonde 100B

Intense Silver Blonde

Toned with Intense Pearl Blonde 100V

Intense Pearl Blonde

Toned with Violet Blonde 10.2

10V Pearl Blonde

Toning with Blondify Natural Violet Blonde (liquid Ammonia Free toner).

Note that the dark base has not been lifted.

Toning with Blondify Natural Violet Blonde

Any amount of lifting and toning is possible, regardless of your base color (or your client's base color). Just follow our steps below in this infographic and you will be sure to achieve stunning white blonde looks.

See Infographic Below:

About the author

Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.

How to Bleach & Tone Hair

A Step-by-Step Guide to Double Process Blonding

What You Will Need

A. Ugly Duckling’s New Bleach with Bond Protect

  • Lifts gently by 7 levels without breakage
  • Builds bonds in the hair to make it stronger

B. 20 or 30 Vol Developer

  • When lifting by 1-2 levels, use 20 Vol
  • When lifting by 3 levels and more, use 30 Vol
  • For the near root area, always use 20 Vol

C. Ugly Duckling Toner

D. Coloring Tools and Rubber Gloves


How to Mix Bleach

  • Mix 1 part bleach to 2 parts developer
  • Be ready to make fresh mixes in case you run out of product during the application
  • If one part requires more lift than another, make one mix with 20 Vol and another with 30 Vol
3 A

How to Apply Bleach

Full Head Application

  • For a full head application, start applying bleach from the back, working in sections
  • If the hair is very long, first do lengths. Then rinse. Then do a separate application for the root area. You will get better control that way.
3 B

How to Apply Bleach

Regrowth Application

  • If it’s a regrowth application, make sure not to overlap - otherwise you could cause breakage.
  • If you overlap by mistake while applying bleach, just wipe back during processing.

How long should I leave the bleach in the hair?

  • Get the hair to a level 10 - very pale yellow, almost white.
  • If there is a lot of yellow left, it means you need to lift more.
  • With Ugly Duckling bleaches, typical lifting times are from 15 to 30 minutes.
  • For Asian girls and very dark bases, you may need to add fresh mix and extend the lifting time by another 15 minutes


  • Rinse with warm water.

Toning with Ugly Duckling Toners

  • Ugly Duckling toners are packed with violet and blue pigments to neutralise any remaining yellow in the hair and produce perfect ash blonde results
  • If the hair still has some yellow, use Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V or Intense Silver Blonde Toner 100B
  • If the hair has minimal yellow, use No-Lift Pearl Blonde Toner 10V or No-Lift Toner Silver Blonde Toner 10B
  • Use toners with 20 Vol
  • Rinse when you achieve the color you are looking for
  • Don’t leave these toners in too long

Finishing with Purple Shampoo & Mask

  • After bleaching and toning, rinse and then massage in purple shampoo or mask - or both!
  • These will help get rid of the final traces of yellow

Well Done!
You got the Ultimate Ash Blonde Results!

  • Give yourself a pat on the back.
  • It’s not every stylist who can do double process blonding and get great results like you just did.
  • Use these techniques and achieve results like these every time!
Silver Gray

Other colors you can use for blonding:

  • 10.1b Extra Light Cold Ash Blonde
  • 10.2 Extra Light Cool Blonde
  • Silver Grey
  • For these colors, the mix is 1+1
  • They should be left on for 30 minutes
  • They are regular colors & will give rich & vibrant blonde results.
Hair Color Results & Processing Shots by @elonataki and @hairfactorynyc

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