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How to Apply Color to Long Hair


Today we are going to have a look at how to apply color on long hair

The sheer amount of hair when coloring long hair has its own challenges because timing becomes key.

You are going to spend longer coloring long hair, and so whether to apply first to roots, mids and ends becomes an important issue.

Whatever happens, there is going to be one part of hair which gets less processing time.

So, which part should it be?


Applying 8VG (8.23) to Long Hair

The color we are applying today is 8.23 and the hair of our model is really very long.

She has does have some color from a previous application but no big build up.

She also has a big regrowth area with her natural hair color at around level 8 (light blonde).

Her hair is also quite thin & it does look like it takes color easily.

Roots first or Ends First?

So we make our mix of 1 part color + 1 part developer. The developer we are using today is 20 Vol.

Now we are going to apply first on the lengths and not on the root.

Hair near the scalp gets heat from the scalp and processes faster and more.

So with long hair like this, it is a good idea to first start on the length area and then gradually build back towards the root area.

That way we are processing the root area less.

We then watch the root area carefully as it processes. Once that area is done, we rinse.

Always saturate the hair well to get good color results.

Apply the first time round with the brush, segmenting finely and working your way systematically round.

With full head coloration, it is a good idea to start at the back where the hair is the thickest.

The second time round, apply more product using fingers (wearing gloves of course). Rub in the color as much as you can.

This will help you achieve color vibrancy and a rich, full final color result.

Emulsify before Rinsing

When the color is done (30 minutes processing is the norm for Ugly Duckling colors), let a few few drops of water flow on top of your model's head at the backwash.

Rub in color some more.

Then let some more water flow. Then rub again.

Only then should you let all the water flow and rinse.

This process is called "emulsification" and it helps you achieve better color results.

About the author

Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.

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