How to use high lift color on very dark hair
BY SALLY MADISON
NATIONAL COLOR TRAINER
Before and After 100.10 with 30 Vol
Hair by @ashleybx @hairfactorynyc
How to lighten dark hair without bleach
Are you looking to lighten dark hair but you don't want to use bleach?
In that case you can consider using Ugly Duckling's High Lift Colors.
These colors are made with higher levels of ammonia and pigmentation.
They lift and re-tone the hair at the same time.
Which High Lift Colors Should I Use?
Ugly Duckling has a wide selection of high lift colors to choose from.
If your aim is pure lift, we would suggest you use Highlift Blonde 100.
Use this with 30 Vol and you will be able to attain up to 5 levels of lift.
If you want to lift and tone at the same time we would suggest you use either HighLift Ash Blonde 100.10 or Highlift Intense Ash Blonde 100.11
Both these contain ash pigments which will prevent the hair going too brassy as it lifts.
Choose between these two depending on the degree of ash toning you are looking for.
HighLift Ash Blonde will give more of a natural ash blonde look.
Whereas HighLift Intense Ash Blonde will give a more pearl-white look.
Finally, if your aim is a golden honey yellow blonde, then go for HighLift Intense Golden Blonde 100.30
How should I Mix and Apply High Lift Colors?
Use them with 30 Vol developer. The recommended ratio is 1 part color to 2 parts developer.
Make a smooth mix using a color whisk (Ugly Duckling sells these if you don't have one) until you get a nice, smooth, consistent gravy-like paste.
Then apply onto the hair with a hair color brush.
Be sure to really saturate the hair. The hair should be literally drenched in your hair color mix.
Always start applying on the area where you need the most lift.
In the case of a root retouch, this is going to be the root area.
But if you are trying to put in highlights over the hair, start at the back. That is where the hair is the thickest and the hardest to lift.
Applying High Lift Color onto Dark Hair - Highlights
For highlights, it is a good idea to use foil cut up into strips.
This allows you to apply on chosen sections.
Fold up the foil after applying the color to each section.
This allows heat to build up and makes for faster processing.
Also, consider adding some indirect heat.
This also will speed up processing and allow you to lift the hair more.