It is more than enough when used correctly to give you the lift that you are looking for.
We don't recommend 40 Vol developer with Brilliant Blonde.
It isn't necessary, & will cause long term damage to your hair.
What is the correct mix ratio for black hair?
The correct mix ratio is 1 part bleach to 2 parts developer.
You need the mixture to be fairly runny when doing black hair for two reasons.
Firstly, you need to saturate the black hair really well and you won't be able to saturate if the mix is too dry.
Secondly, having a relatively runny mix allows you to work fast.
And with bleach, which is active as long as it is sitting on the hair, it is important to work fast.
Otherwise you won't be able to give equal processing time to every part of your hair or your client's hair.
What is the best way to apply the bleach on to my client's black hair?
Start from the back.
That is where the hair is thickest.
By starting there, you are basically giving more processing time to that area.
Segment finely, and really saturate the hair really well with the bleach mixture.
You literally need to whack on plenty, and I mean plenty of product. The hair needs to be literally drenched in bleach.
You will need plenty of product. So don't hesitate to make more mix as you go.
Have someone standing by to make more mixes is a great idea if you are new to bleaching black hair.
We recommend you use foil for black hair.
Placing hair in foil keeps the heat in and allows for faster processing.
Once you have done all the foils, you can place the hair under a hood dryer for 10 minutes to go faster with the lifting.
How long should I leave the bleach in the hair?
This is the number one question we get when it comes to bleaching dark hair!
The answer is not a fixed time. It is determined by visual inspection.
When bleaching black hair, you need to keep checking by peeling back some of the bleach (see visual below).
As you lift black hair, it will go red, then orange. This is totally normal.
You need to keep bleaching.
When do I do the Second Application of Bleach?
After you have done the first application on the entire head, working your way around from the back to the sides and front and putting everything in foil, use a little heat using a hood dryer for around 10 minutes.
Then open up a foil or two from the back and see where you are at.
Sally has been a hair colorist and trainer for many years in both the US & Europe. She currently does hair color training for Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.